yeah its a magnetic table max its standard for surface grinders unless you have a really expensive one that uses a vacuum suction bed serious money for those

and he is grinding them to make them skinnier so they fit the afh pistons and crank as they are G60 rods they are 25mm thick as standard but small end needs to be 20mm to fit in the standard pistons and he is going down to 22mm for the big end to fit in the crank jounals

this is what i did to my 20vt rods to get them to fit my afh but i made mine 20mm on both ends

Edited 21 August, 201214 yr by StinkyPete

Cool, good work. I really enjoyed machining my rotating assembly, pretty much has all gone to waste though as it was all done to build a high compression NA engine. Gonna have to undo all my hard work and lower the CR by fitting a pair of head-gaskets

Should be good for a lot of power then, shouldn't see them letting go as pete unfortunately did.

max just buy a decomp plate get the one from ebay £45 delievered from germany thats what I'm using for my afh but they do one for the 8v block as well

Good work guy. Them magnetic tables are f'in strong! Machinery amazes me.

Also I wouldn't drive of the cam!

I've already said there's no danger of me trying to run it off the cam

Max I have no idea how these rods would stand up against G40 rods

Started looking into what size decomplate I would of had to use on a standard avy to get a suitable cr, found one lad saying he used a 3mm plate to drop the cr, seems a little drastic to me. Gonna get on one of those cr calculators when I have all the info I need and see where I stand. Basically all I need to work out is what the cr of an avy with a 2mm decomplate would be and I will know where I stand and where I will need to go from there

Edited 22 August, 201214 yr by Mclovin

Your going for the conventional placement anyway aren't you?

So its going on mappable management then right? Are you gonna run it on a base map at first then?

bodged the omex together to fire it up for the first time

now i know 100% that it works i can start buying the sensors and usb/serial connecter for the lap top and looking at wiring it into the car

Edited 24 August, 201214 yr by Mclovin

now you know it works.... what do you have me down as Cheeky cheeky :p

ben its been in a box in an outhouse for nearly a year and hasn't been powered up in how long?

just had this irrational fear come over me the other day that i would wire it in and it just wouldn't power up or something

ben its been in a box in an outhouse for nearly a year and hasn't been powered up in how long?

just had this irrational fear come over me the other day that i would wire it in and it just wouldn't power up or something

umm, a week before i got it, and i had it a week how long you had it :p

Looks interesting!

Your using a MAP sensor then right? Does it have base maps and things then?

it has a base map on it (thats the fueling graph in the pic) but its from a vauxhall red top on itb's. not sure if i will use that as my base map or email omex and get a more suitable base map for it, cross that bridge when i come to it

off the top of my head it will be using, lamba, TPS, MAP, CPS and ATS

Edited 24 August, 201214 yr by Mclovin

Hows the redtop base map look dude? asin, extreme orrr? it was a quick redtop like.....

fuck knows, its the first map i've ever seen so no idea if its extreme or not

Would you not need a coolant temp sensor too

yep, as i said that was off the top of my head

Just a quick one mate, when you buy your usb to serial converter, get a decent one i got a cheapo one from ebay it cost £1.90 and the connection was crap it kept dropping out.

I recommend the one from maplin, its on offer atm for £10 which is half price, you know it will work and you can pay using paypal.

Will you have to calibrate your sensors yourself or can omex provide ones and give you the calibration files?

I had to calibrate my coolant temp, its pretty easy, just have to wire the sensor to a multi-meter and measure the resistance across it at 3 or 4 different temps e.g -5, 27, 100 degs

but then for air temp i bought a specific sensor and got the calibration file

Also if your using itb's you just gonna take the air temp reading off one runner? or make an airbox and take the reading from there?

i'm not running itb's mate, i got the omex with a set and it was my plan to run them but i changed direction and swapped the bodies for a charger. have you got a link to the usb lead? its some thing i had been worrying about a bit as i've read that they can be a bit hit and miss. i found one being sold by a MS dealer which they said did work but it was over £20, if the one you got works and is half the price i would rather get that one

if i use the base map already in the ecu my air temp sensor should be fine as that was used with the itb/omex setup, i would imagine i will need to calibrate at least some of the other sensors tho but that is all covered in my instruction book i believe

http://www.maplin.co.uk/usb-to-serial-9-pi...e-adaptor-29968]

Yeah i was gonna buy that one from the ms dealer to but bit pricey.

Your air temp sensor have a thread on it?

If so there is a hand spot on the gti inlet manifold you can drill and tap for it, its where the 2 in 1 air temp/map oem sensor is.

TPS is easy to calibrate the software does it for you.

Also if you need lambda sensor go for the innovate one, really good quality and value for money at the same time, ill can dig out the link where i managed to buy one for cheap if you want, worked out about 40-50 quid cheaper than ebay or other places.

ordered that lead mate, cheers

yeah my ATS is threaded, not sure which inlet mani i'm going to go with yet tho, either way it will need to be modded to to suit the TB (either G40 or G60). as for the TPS i'm looking at ones from an E36 BMW atm as they are cheap used on ebay and are nice compact little units. i'm probably gonna go with a cosworth 3 bar MAP sensor because again these are cheap and readily available on ebay.

with the lamba i'm just using mine because as far as i can work out the omex 500 i have only uses narrow band, i am still trying to find more info on this tho and if it does use wide band i've got a mate who might be able get me a wide band lamba from a newer vw/audi

Looks like you know what your doing dude, did you read a book about omex?

Next years action should be pretty scary...

Next year action should me amazing if everyone gets their car sorted there will be some mega polos and we will be there in force for a change :)

Doubt mine will have even progressed at this rate , eric will have done about 5 engine/plan changes by then. Should be good though,

Some real 8v vs 16v showdowns, you two should both see 200hp+ surely?

does it really sound like i know what i'm doing max?

no book, i've got the instruction manual which goes into some detail and is obviously handy, but any thing i haven't fully understood along the way i've googled to fuck until i have a much better idea of what, how and why. this is the same for all the aspects of this project i've not been sure of (and with this being the first time i've done anything remotely like this, there have been many). kit car and ford forums have given me a lot of info about the omex, mx5 forums have provided a lot of help in terms of mounting the charger and the benefits of hot/cold side tb's ect. lupo forums have been good for general info on charging these sort of engines, and i've been on all sorts of make and model forums looking for suitable sensors i can use to keep costs down. so no books but plenty of reading along the way

and to answer a question you asked in the off topic section, yes all other forums are like this one

action next year should be a good laugh

Edited 25 August, 201214 yr by Mclovin

Awesome,

It should be a good read once you've done it, could maybe put it into the FAQ?

I'll be especially interesting for me as i've got no idea about EFI systems, especially when your converting an NA system to run FI

I'll stick to my carburettors though