hi, id like opinions on rear wheel cylinders, my 1.4 8v drum is soaked in fluid, whether to replace as a unit or to try and re-seal, also how fiddly to do and any problems I'm likely to find, thanks in advance for any help,

New cylinders ,,,they are cheap around £10 ,Its the new brake shoes that will cost the most..

Check your handbrake cable and wheel bearings before you do job..just in case ,

And if one side has gone ,then best give other side a good looking at..

Good luck

Patrick

New cylinders ,,,they are cheap around £10 ,Its the new brake shoes that will cost the most..

Check your handbrake cable and wheel bearings before you do job..just in case ,

And if one side has gone ,then best give other side a good looking at..

Good luck

Patrick

hi, all sorted now, as you said the shoes were the dearest, checked the other sides cylinder too and all was hunkey dorey!!

tbh, I'd have done both sides at the same time - it doesn't seem to work in my head only replacing one side of brakes.

Its not always plain sailing though,i recon I've used a drill more often than an allen key when replacing drum cylinders. This is why i dont like working on other peoples cars - they see two spanners in the Haynes and expect it done in their lunch hour. And they drive a four wheeled version of the Mary Rose.

Glad thats sorted..

Hope you gave the brake fluid agood flushing..

Old brake fluid is responsible for most of the problems we get with brakes..

Took me years to learn to change it regular as per the book...

Its not always plain sailing though,i recon I've used a drill more often than an allen key when replacing drum cylinders. This is why i dont like working on other peoples cars - they see two spanners in the Haynes and expect it done in their lunch hour. And they drive a four wheeled version of the Mary Rose.

There's the mistake, allen keys are for MFI coffee tables and nothing else. Wash them off with some release sray on both sides of the thread and tap a proper hex bit in with a hammer. Quick tap with an impact driver to break the rust seal and undo with a socket set.

If you're not reusing the cylinder (why would you?) get the flexi hose out the way and get the blowtorch in on the act if the impact driver isn't playing.

PLease tell me you didnt replace one side shoes but not the other

PLease tell me you didnt replace one side shoes but not the other

^This.

Brakes and suspension. Always change both on the same axle.

PLease tell me you didnt replace one side shoes but not the other

god no!! i changed the cylinder on the leaky side and the shoes on both sides, know that brakes must be changed in pairs, bled thro half a litre of fluid for each rear wheel, was a bit murky to start with but came thro nice and clear and a firm pedal again, all is well again, phew, no patches in car parks now!!!

Its not always plain sailing though,i recon I've used a drill more often than an allen key when replacing drum cylinders. This is why i dont like working on other peoples cars - they see two spanners in the Haynes and expect it done in their lunch hour. And they drive a four wheeled version of the Mary Rose.

There's the mistake, allen keys are for MFI coffee tables and nothing else. Wash them off with some release sray on both sides of the thread and tap a proper hex bit in with a hammer. Quick tap with an impact driver to break the rust seal and undo with a socket set.

If you're not reusing the cylinder (why would you?) get the flexi hose out the way and get the blowtorch in on the act if the impact driver isn't playing.

guess i must have been lucky with the allen bolt, i wire brushed the dirt and rust off, the allen socket was a bit tight so a wee tap in to make sure its seated in right, a crack and all was loose, bet the next time i wont be so lucky!!!

When i say allen key,i do mean high quality male hex bits. Although,i do use the ball-ended wrenches at work (quality Bondhurst brand) and they're good if you dont need to tap the end into a rusted head.