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replacing knock sensor on a 1996 polo 1.4cl- EDITED WITH NEW VAGCOM READ

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right, been doing a bit of googleing after my vagcom read on my polo and i think i now know why my car feels liie a sack of shite to drive and drinks more than a piss head in an empty pub....knock sensor.

I've rang a car part place and can get 1 for about 25 quid but I'm not sure how i go about replacing it or even where to find it for that matter. any pics of where it is and tips on replacing would be nice

heres the vag reading

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Address 01: Engine Labels: Redir Fail!

Controller: 030 906 027 P

Component: MOTRONIC MP 9.0 2105

Coding: 0261203915

Shop #: 1037355253

1 Fault Found:

00524 - Knock Sensor 1 (G61)

31-00 - Open or Short to Ground

Readiness: N/A

edit: ok, got the car taxed, knock sensor replaced with one from a breakers, driven for a bit today and re vagcom'd

the bold part is aparantly something to do with the sensor from the code but i dont know what as it says unknown error code :S

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Address 01: Engine Labels: Redir Fail!

Controller: 030 906 027 P

Component: MOTRONIC MP 9.0 2105

Coding: 0261203915

Shop #: 1037355253

1 Fault Found:

00524 - Unknown Error Code

31-00 - Unknown Error Elaboration

Readiness: N/A

Edited by m60_maniac

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It's hard to take pics of this part as it is placed somewhere under the intake manifold,above the starter.

It's round shaped,about an inch and bolted on the engine block by one single bolt through it.

Pay maximum atention with the torque tightening as it could lead to inssuficient sensing for slight knock when it starts to occur.

  • Author

Thanks, I know where the starter is (need that replacing too lol) so will look later on. As for the torque, would it just need tightening till it's tight or can you over tighten these?

Thanks

  • Author

is it this by any chance? (ignore the pic, its an old one from my TB clean. the green circle is what i mean here)

if not, what is that bit for referance?

nfsec1.jpg

i have no experience of this engine but if it's the same as the earlier 8v's that green thing is the oil pressure switch, and if your engine is the same as the AFH (as far as the knock sensor goes) which i believe it is from zenza's reply, then you are looking way too high up the engine.

it's literally right down the back sitting in possibly the most awkward pisshole gap you can imagine. on the 16v you need to remove the whole inlet mani from the head to get any kind of access to it, and it's resting in a tight gap between the big water pipe that goes along the back of the engine (from the thermostat housing to the back of the water pump) and the starter motor.

i had a bit of a ballache just unclipping the wiring plug off mine with the starter motor in place so it's probably gonna be a case of having to whip the starter off to actually remove the sensor, but if your planning on changing the starter motor any way then that's not gonna be an issue for you

  • Author

Yea I have the new starter, I just can't see how it's gonna fit out under the engine :/ I looked and don't think it will fit as there's an exhaust in the way lol.

I'm gonna get 1 from a breakers tomorrow I think so will have to look where he gets it from. I'll get a new one wen I have more cash

go in from the top mate, so much easier, if you go in from underneath not only are you very limited with space but your not going to be able to see what your doing.

remove all the inlet manifold which has all your injection stuff on it and you have good access to the starter and knock sensor from above plus it gives you a more space to work in

Edited by McLOVIN

Hi

Knock sensors are mounted on cylinder block and not on cylinder head...

They are a very simple device that rarely go wrong.....Soooooo.... check for wiring fault before parting with cash..

Good luck

Patrick

  • Author
go in from the top mate, so much easier, if you go in from underneath not only are you very limited with space but your not going to be able to see what your doing.

remove all the inlet manifold which has all your injection stuff on it and you have good access to the starter and knock sensor from above plus it gives you a more space to work in

is it simple to remove the inlet? I've taken the throttle body off before so i can get that off easily. dont want anything else pissing out etc, had hot coolant over me already from the temp sender so if its too complicated ill go from underneeth i think

Hi

Knock sensors are mounted on cylinder block and not on cylinder head...

They are a very simple device that rarely go wrong.....Soooooo.... check for wiring fault before parting with cash..

Good luck

Patrick

yea will do, but from reading the symptoms of a bad one (low mpg, sluggish accelleration, feels like loss of power) then its pointing towards it as my car has all of that. plus it came up on the vagcom so there must be something wrong with it, wether it be broken or dodgey wires.

Edited by m60_maniac

It worth in deed checking first the electric conector and spraying it it with some electric cleaner spray,no matter how good are them sealed they may fail, then clear the code.

Try first to acces the sensor from underneath ,I would recommand removing the starter,three bolts, rather the intake manifold,remeber you have to renew the manifold gasket for this.

post-22992-1303865255.jpg

  • Author

Yea I will do then, I've cleared the code but there must be something wrong for it to do such low mpg, don't think just having to code there would do this unless it actualy has a fault. Not gonna go from above, from looking at it I'll be removing a hell of a lot to get to it. Will be trying this later today then hopefully, will update later on. Thanks

Item # 10 20Nm but can't see it causing low mpg!

  • Author

starter and a new knock sensor on, gave the circet a clean but i got a new one for 5 qud from a breakers so thought i may aswell replace it. managed to get the starter off and replaced without taking the inlet off from above, wasnt easy but it was do able :) will test properly when i have my tax sorted :)

  • Author

right, car taxed and 1st post edited

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