I'm thinking of spraying my car a matt colour but once I've sprayed the car the colour what do i need to do next ??

Explain more, makes little sense.

What have you painted it with?

Think he means lacquer etc

you then strip it back and paint it a glossy or a satin colour.

basicly I'm planning on spraying it a matt colour and I'm woundering what is the next step in the process like do i need to put lacquer or anything over it to seal it like you would do with gloss paint or do i just leave it with the colour coat and wait for it to dry

basicly I'm planning on spraying it a matt colour and I'm woundering what is the next step in the process like do i need to put lacquer or anything over it to seal it like you would do with gloss paint or do i just leave it with the colour coat and wait for it to dry

I've painted my 6n2 in matt. looks the bomb. i just gave it two coats and it still looks as good the day i painted it lol.

put jelly on it

It depends what you paint it with in the 1st place.

You cant really just use normal basecoat and leave it, as it wont really be matt

You either start with matt paint and then leave it, orrr use normal basecoat and then matt down the laquer

Or possibly even just matting agent in basecoat? But i cant comment as I've never done that.

what would people recommend i do from start to finish please

rub the surface down with 240 grit sandpaper.

clean the surface thoroughly with soapy water.

leave to dry completely.

spray lightly with primer.

leave to dry for an hour.

spray first full coat of primer.

spray another coat of primer.

leave to dry overnight.

lightly rub down with 240 grit wet and dry.

spray lightly with colour.

leave to dry for an hour.

spray with first coat of colour.

leave to dry over night or at least a few hours.

spray with second coat of colour.

add a third and fourth coat if full coverage is not acheived.

polish lightly with T-Cut to get rid of any rough patches.

for a true matt finish you dont need to use laquer.

follow this guide and you cant go too far wrong.

240 grit is far too abrasive for keying up original paint. You dont want to be using anything under 800grit if your gonna just be spraying it.

Using 240 you will see the scratches through the paint. if doing thin coats of paint you only need to leave it 10mins between coats.

rubbed mine down with 600 disc wheel pads then painted in pound shop primer, 15 quid job done, no fannying around

rub the surface down with 240 grit sandpaper.

clean the surface thoroughly with soapy water.

leave to dry completely.

spray lightly with primer.

leave to dry for an hour.

spray first full coat of primer.

spray another coat of primer.

leave to dry overnight.

lightly rub down with 240 grit wet and dry.

spray lightly with colour.

leave to dry for an hour.

spray with first coat of colour.

leave to dry over night or at least a few hours.

spray with second coat of colour.

add a third and fourth coat if full coverage is not acheived.

polish lightly with T-Cut to get rid of any rough patches.

for a true matt finish you dont need to use laquer.

follow this guide and you will go wrong.

Edited 29 April, 201115 yr by MaxVW

add a matten agent to the laquear is the best fuck that shite above

What colour do you want it? If you're just doing matt black buy some Pro Matic tins. They cover everything so all you need is a quick rub down, mask up and spray. Best stuff for rubbing down is the red scuffing pads. Go to a proper paintshop you can usually get a pack of ten for less than a fiver.

rub the surface down with 240 grit sandpaper.

clean the surface thoroughly with soapy water.

leave to dry completely.

spray lightly with primer.

leave to dry for an hour.

spray first full coat of primer.

spray another coat of primer.

leave to dry overnight.

lightly rub down with 240 grit wet and dry.

spray lightly with colour.

leave to dry for an hour.

spray with first coat of colour.

leave to dry over night or at least a few hours.

spray with second coat of colour.

add a third and fourth coat if full coverage is not acheived.

polish lightly with T-Cut to get rid of any rough patches.

for a true matt finish you dont need to use laquer.

follow this guide and you cant go too far wrong.

thats fucking effort, when i did my polo i...

gave it a quick hose down

left to dry

keyed paint with brillo pad, the sort that is on the back of a spong (it was all my nan had that was any where near suitable)

quick whipe down with a rag

masked up windows and lights

blasted over it with 8 can's of matt black from my local motor factors

job done. always kept a spare tin of matt black in the boot incase it got dirty, light blast over affected area and it was good as new

always kept a spare tin of matt black in the boot incase it got dirty, light blast over affected area and it was good as new

Thats what i do with the bready! dead easy to clean

took me 2 hrs from red to fully done in primer and matt black and that was including tidying up :)

dickhead.

that method i took the time to type up has worked time and time again for me.

so piss off.

on a further note, 240 grit is fine for keying, 600 will hardly break the surface on standard paint.

600 - 1500 will work better used between coats.

and never mind 'fucking effort'. if you do a job, do it properly and you'll only have to do it once.

listen to you you fucking dome

matt paint is possibly the most forgiving paint you can use, it's pretty much primer. you don't need to take your time and try and act like you know what your doing to get a good finish, you can literally pull up in a lay-by and blast the car with it if you wanted and still get a good finish (can't remember who but some one on here actually did just that).

oh and if you were doing the job 'properly' you would of lacquered it with matt agent, without that you might as well be driving around with bare metal panels because without the lacquer water proofing your new paint it will act like a big fucking sponge. which is the last thing you want after taking off the cars original lacquer with that 240 grit sand paper

Edited 29 April, 201115 yr by McLOVIN

dickhead.

that method i took the time to type up has worked time and time again for me.

so piss off.

on a further note, 240 grit is fine for keying, 600 will hardly break the surface on standard paint.

600 - 1500 will work better used between coats.

and never mind 'fucking effort'. if you do a job, do it properly and you'll only have to do it once.

I just painted a wing of my neighbours mk2f cause he wanted to see what some matt electric blue paint would look like. i keyed it with some wire wool stuff and used a bit of card and kept moving it down the wing to mask it, the whole job took less than 5 mins and the finish is perfect :) Matt paint is a piece of piss, the only way i could percieve going wrong is if you sprayed your windscreen entirely and didnt notice till you were halfway down the motorway that you couldnt see...

Basically, to the op, if you want grey or black but some normal halfords shit, it worked fine for me, if not, use matt graffiti paint, this stuff is meant to stick to anything and does so like a shit to a blanket, you also get good coverage quickly, cause them pesky kids dont wanna get caught now do they

halfords matt black is actually pretty good compared to some i've used. a mate got me some u-pol matt black through his work and it was pretty much the worst paint i've ever tried to use, it was proper thin and i had to hold the can right up close using VERY slow movements to even get any amount on the panel, and this was painting inside.

Edited 29 April, 201115 yr by McLOVIN

halfords matt black is actually pretty good compared to some i've used. a mate got me some u-pol matt black through his work and it was pretty much the worst paint i've ever tried to use, it was proper thin and i had to hold the car right up close using VERY slow movements to even get any amount on the panel, and this was painting inside.

Halfords is what i used, and you've seen how that turned out, albeit at night I bought some stuff from a paint shop and it was toss, i threw it away! after painting that wing tonight though, think I'm gonna go with graffiti paint from now on, its awesomely easy :)

Arron, no offence mate but some of that info is pretty bad

Not being big headed, but i went to college and learned how to paint properly. 240 grit is FAR too coarse. you can use emery cloth/scouring pad to key paint, 800 is what i was told to use. Used it on everything I've done near enough.

240 is close to what id use to rubbing filler down in the 1st stage to get rid of all the roughness and shaping it.

Also, cleaning the surface with soapy water, not ideal. can leave a residue/skin from the soap. you ideally need proper panel wipe. Cheap enough and is awesome stuff.

Depending on what paint your using, hour between coats is far too long. I did mine in 2 hours (entire car, 3 coats of basecoat and 3 of clearcoat) You want it to just start to dry then go over it again. leaving it to dry for that amount of time could cause problems with it not sticking properly and possibly reacting. Also that's a lot of time for dust to settle on the surface.

dickhead.

that method i took the time to type up has worked time and time again for me.

so piss off.

on a further note, 240 grit is fine for keying, 600 will hardly break the surface on standard paint.

600 - 1500 will work better used between coats.

and never mind 'fucking effort'. if you do a job, do it properly and you'll only have to do it once.

Fucking joker lol.

240 is what you would rub fibreglass/filler down with. I used 320 on my car, and so does my old man who sprays cars for a living. 800 grit easily keys up standard paint, all you want to be doing is keying it until the standard lacquer goes matt all over, removing all the standard 'orange peel'

I'd certainly never take a car to you for any bodywork. 1500-2000 grit is what you would flat the new paint down with after it's been completely sprayed, before it's polished up with a rotary mop/cutting compound.

Panel wipe and go over it with a tac-rag are ideal to prepare the surface before painting, removes any dust and contaminants.

When my old man did my car yesterday he sprayed the whole thing in under an hour. Couple of coats of bascoat (over standard colour), then 3 coats of lacquer.

*edit*

Mclovin, I think the U-pol matt paint isn't intended for respraying things, only as a guide coat when rubbing filler/primer down.

Edited 30 April, 201115 yr by deviance

Leave it as is, I'm sick of seeing people spraying perfectly good cars matt black. IT LOOKS SHIT!

Specially when they just do the outside of the car and not the inside or the engine bay... rage