you would be ok doin a panel but painting a whole car? trying to get a large panel such as the roof and bonnet painted evenly without patches would be difficult to say the least even in matt

how so? the only reason you get patches is becuase you either didnt put a thick enough layer of paint on, or your hold the can too close to the bodywork, so reducing the fan width of the spray, which will cause noticeably thicker areas of paint.

granted it requires a bit more care than using a gun, but its not impossible.

did the hardtop on my mazda, that came out alright

Wow.

You got any tips jon? I litterally have no idea in this area?

Up to now my plan is to run the entire car down, repair and body work imperfection with filler,

Prime parts that need it,

rub down, then layers of paint.

Do you need to rub down inbetween layers?

Pretty much my entire old car was rattle can

Pretty much my entire old car was rattle can

Lol, but looking at jons work, there's nowt wrong with using cans!

You could tell too Jon

Nah there's nowt wrong with using the cans for a quick fix at all.

When it was in good condish you literally couldnt tell that id used a rattle can cos i took ages about it:

The boot arches and roof were all rattle can there.

But then when i put diff wings on and replaced the door after kicking the fuck out of it in rage i did such a shit job

well i did mine in filler primer "matte yellow" (yes paint nazis it woulda been absorbant etc etc but it was summer at the time and it was scrapped by winter lol) took me and my cousin 1hour hour and a half to strip the car 2-3 hours to spray and put it back together the next day

took 3 ltrs of pain (5x600ml cans) and 3 rolls of tape lol also about 4 hours to do the checkering lol 64 individual squares lmao

Yeah matt colours will give you the best finish

i dont get how you used just 5 cans though for a whole car though i used 2 just doing my wheels

filler primer so its alot thicker than regular paint and it was a very thin coat as i wasnt planning on keeping it that way for too long lol

you would be ok doin a panel but painting a whole car? trying to get a large panel such as the roof and bonnet painted evenly without patches would be difficult to say the least even in matt

how so? the only reason you get patches is becuase you either didnt put a thick enough layer of paint on, or your hold the can too close to the bodywork, so reducing the fan width of the spray, which will cause noticeably thicker areas of paint.

granted it requires a bit more care than using a gun, but its not impossible.

did the hardtop on my mazda, that came out alright

Yeah but thats a pretty small roof and people have already prooved you can get a 'good' finish on smaller panels, also note your roof is detachable. Was it on the floor when yu painted it? And to be honest these are just photos sure enough some do look pretty good but looking at in person may be a total different story?

tbh the main downside to cans is that

1. the paint will be 1k acrylic, so not as hard as celly, 2k or even enamel

2. prep is much the same as any other method. the better the prep, the better the final finish

3. rattle cans often have a tendency for the paint inside to react, so you need to degrease the item you are painting really, really well! (for this I use a solvent based spray degreaser. The stuff I've got at the moment is meant for degreasing engine bays with!) you could use panel wipes, but I'm too tight, so just use kitchen roll!

4. as rattle cans are 1k acrylic, they are designed to air dry, so you need to paint on a warm day, preferably when humidity is low. the warmer the temp, the quicker the solvent will flash off. this gives a better shine straight from the can and reduces the chance of the paint blooming (where it absorbs moisture out of the air)

The key things to adhere to when rattle canning, is to take your time. dont rush!

make sure you allow pleanty of time between primer and top coats

dont panic if you get a run in the paint. if its plain gloss, you can flat it out later. if its matt, metallic or pearl, wait for it to dry, then sand it out (don't try and add more paint to hide it, it wont work!)

ensure you get a good coverage of paint, 4 or 5 coats

once your paint is on, leave it a week or 2. Dont be tempted to flat or polish it. It can take this long for the paint to fully harden and for all the solvents to evapourate off. cut and polish too soon and you can trap the solvents and end up ruining the paint work!

buy quality rattle cans! hycote are good, but I prefer custom mixed cans from my local automotive paint supplier, avoid halford own brand paints, they are pap. Their custom mixed paints can be ok, but thats solely dependant on the monkey mixing the stuff.

ditch the cans and use a budget badger airbrush instead. it doesnt need to be anything flashy, something like this one

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/AIRBRUSH-BADGER-250-...=item3a650a92dd

its much the same as using a rattle can, only you have more choice on paint (i always use celly, as unlike 2k it isnt as lethal and its also easy to use in a diy situation) when spraying celly, I always mix it 50/50 with high gloss thinners (these flash off quicker that std thinners and are worth the extra ££ imo)

the other advantage is that you can run the airbrush of aerosol, small compressor, or even a spare tyre. It gives a much improved spray pattern and greater control also.

If you do lots of little paint jobs, it works out cheaper than cans too. also very quick an easy to clean! perfect for the diy'er who doesnt have room for a full blown compressor and spray gun

you would be ok doin a panel but painting a whole car? trying to get a large panel such as the roof and bonnet painted evenly without patches would be difficult to say the least even in matt

how so? the only reason you get patches is becuase you either didnt put a thick enough layer of paint on, or your hold the can too close to the bodywork, so reducing the fan width of the spray, which will cause noticeably thicker areas of paint.

granted it requires a bit more care than using a gun, but its not impossible.

did the hardtop on my mazda, that came out alright

Yeah but thats a pretty small roof and people have already prooved you can get a 'good' finish on smaller panels, also note your roof is detachable. Was it on the floor when yu painted it? And to be honest these are just photos sure enough some do look pretty good but looking at in person may be a total different story?

your welcome to come and have a look for yourself

yes the roof was removeable, but if anything painting it on the floor of by badly lit garage at night probably made things harder. I dont have any close ups of the roof, I do have of the rear spoiler though

rear light which i tinted and number plate panel which i resprayed too

I have a question regarding the removal of spray paint.

I just bought some bumpers which have been sprayed Matt black and I've

Noticed that the colour underneath is the same as my car. At the moment I'm using White spirit and a credit card to try and remove the spray paint but carefully leave my colour. Is there any other way to remove it that is easier and that will not effect the paintwork underneath?!

Regarding that airbrush, where would be best to get paint for them?

And would i need anything else other than the paint?

you could try rag and some std cellulose thinners. if the paint underneath is 2k, which i'm fairly sure it will be, it will be pretty resilient to the celly thinners. the other way you could do it, would be to use fine wet or dry paper used wet, so sand the matt black off, then get the lacquer underneath repolished using a random orbital polisher. you could polish by had, but it would take a while.

also heard of people using petrol on some rag to remove spray paint too, but I've never tried it myself

Regarding that airbrush, where would be best to get paint for them?

And would i need anything else other than the paint?

you can get tins of paint from auto paint supplier, ebay, halfords, where ever you like really. always stick to either celly based, 1k acrylic or enamel. 2k contains iso-cynates and should only be used in controlled environments with suitable air-fed mask.

best to avoid mixing them too. so if you primered in celly, spray the top-coat in celly too

as for supplies.......

good quality face mask. 3m do a good one for blocking solvent fumes

selection of wet or dry paper

selection of scotch pads

solvent spray degreaser

std thinners for cleaning

high gloss for spraying

lots of clean old rags

masking tape and paper

think thats about all i use. A lot of it is down to personal preference. you will find your own way of doing things

iv done some work in cans

splitter done in gloss black

also

preped

primed

2 coats

after laquer needs some polishing (white patch is a reflection from the floor )

jamie

Edited 5 May, 201115 yr by jamiet2

this i my old 6n

Jon I'm coming round soon, you need to teach me! But mines metallic, whats the best primer to use?

Nice work ben.

Hope mine comes out something like that.

What cans did you use?

And how did you get such a good coverage!

Sprayed my mates matt black shit box on my drive way with halfords matt black spray

And also done the mk1 with rollers and wall paint from bnq i think it looks quite good my mate seem to like the cheep paint jobs

Edited 5 May, 201115 yr by louislewin

to do a matt black panel, such as a wing, would you need to sand and prime it before spraying up or clean the panel then spray away happily?? Just want to do my drivers wing for a bit of a change after my MOT

mine, done on me drive for 14 quid

Nah there's nowt wrong with using the cans for a quick fix at all.

When it was in good condish you literally couldnt tell that id used a rattle can cos i took ages about it:

The boot arches and roof were all rattle can there.

But then when i put diff wings on and replaced the door after kicking the fuck out of it in rage i did such a shit job

i would have never been able to tell that was rattle canned from the pic!

i loved that car

this is months old, not even fresh but the paint still looks clean on my 6n :)

tbh bonnet could do with a rubdown and repaint but only visible a tiny bit patchy, its not perfect but hey!

could do matt white? I've been considering doing it myself!!!! but it depends what you want/need from your car i went for matt because its gangster and cheap

Thats soooo Nice!

I was thinking Matte White, would be easy since my car is already white but the paint is ruined :(

So i'd have to primer the whole car then spray...

How many layers did that take you and wheres the best place to get sprays?

Well tbh i got all my paints from euro car parts using that simoniz matt black, they also sell matte white, i know of someone who didnt primer their whole car but id do it anyway just because its only like 4 quid a can! apparently you can just key the paint and spray but you will probobly want to primer tbh. I dont really know how many layers hahaha, i just blew it over so it was evenly covered (basicly cant see grey primer anymore!) left to dry without fiddling with it came outside my house and thought, I'm gunna need a few more cans! onyl hard bits are the roof and bonnet really they are just hard to get an even coat on (gunna redo mine!)

And thanks mate :) although i have heard alot about people using graffiti paint

Just to follow this up,

@g40jon,

I'm gonna buy a badger airbrush like the one you posted up abit ago..

Am i right in thinking i just need to get the pots or paint and high gloss thinners, mix them in to the "hopper" and away i go? Obviously doing all the prep etc, i'll be using a spare tyre for the pressure feed etc.

Cheers.

you cant paint a car with an airbrush mate