It aint a detailer airbrush you plonker

Just to follow this up,

@g40jon,

I'm gonna buy a badger airbrush like the one you posted up abit ago..

Am i right in thinking i just need to get the pots or paint and high gloss thinners, mix them in to the "hopper" and away i go? Obviously doing all the prep etc, i'll be using a spare tyre for the pressure feed etc.

Cheers.

yeah just get the paint and some thinners and mix it in an empty jam jar (a cleaned out one!) i normally go for a 50/50 mix of paint and thinners. use a fairly big jar and it save you constantly havng to mix up little batches of paint.

Yeah i thought about that. Also, what laquer is best to use do you find?

and how many litres of 50/50 mix would you reccomend for doing a whole car from scratch?

i dont use laquer on plain base colours. you dont need to for celly based paints like gloss red or gloss black. last time i did anything which required laquer was my old dragon green 6n and i used 1k laquer which required no thinning. dont remember the make though.

i wouldnt recommend doing a whole car with a badger airbrush. it'll take a fair amount of time. you'd be better off with a gravity fed hvlp gun. you could do it with the airbrush, it'll just take twice as long.

i colour coded my bumpers at the weekend, as the old bumper black paint had flaked. probably took me an hour per bumper to paint using my airbrush. would have taken less time with my hvlp gun without a doubt!

Wow, looks really good that. Your airbrush simular to the one you posted? Whats the maximum spray pattern?

And it taking a long time is no concern for me, i'll be doing it a panel at a time anyway over a few weeks as i will never have time to do it all in one go. The airbrush is actually spot on for what i need as i do a lot of little jobs and its extremely good value for money.

So no laquer with gloss red? Mine is tornado red.

nah, no laquer required. the shine comes from the high gloss thinners and polishing it once its had a few weeks to harden and all the solvent has gone. (dont ever wax fresh paint, it can trap solvent and ruin the finish!)

yes i use exactly the same airbrush as the one i posted a link too. sprays between 19mm up to 51mm

Which is about what a rattle can does. Right, no laquer then, forgot about the gloss thinners so did'nt realise about not needed the laquer.

I'm planning on buying my paint and thinners from paint4u.com, but they don't seem to stock "high gloss thinners", any ideas on any other names its given? they recommend anti-bloom laquer.

I've rattled canned both my bumpers with different out comes, aslong as you spray it in a well lit area with the help of a couple heaters you should be fine

I'm finding it super hard to find Matte White rattle cans haha

WILL BE DONE THOUGH!

I'm finding it super hard to find Matte White rattle cans haha

WILL BE DONE THOUGH!

white primer???

I'm finding it super hard to find Matte White rattle cans haha

WILL BE DONE THOUGH!

white primer???

lol, Never thought of that

Depends what paint you use as to weather or not you use clearcoat or not...

NOTE: Typically the term "catalyst" is used separately from terms "activator" and "hardener" (as in epoxy catalyst) because it does not have isocyanates. I don't think there's any hard and fast rule, but it may be worth pointing out.

1K – This is a term used to describe a coating that does not require a hardener, catalyst, or activator. For example, this term can be used to describe “single component” paints and all of the aerosol paints we sell with the exception of the Spray Max products. NOTE: I’ve seen “1K” and “Single Stage” used interchangeably. See definition of “Single Stage” below.

2K – This describes a coating that needs to be mixed with a hardener, catalyst or activator. This can be used to describe our Eastwood Automotive Finishes, “two component” paints and other urethane finishes.

One/Single Stage – Is used to describe a coating that does not require a clear top coat. A single stage coating may or may not require a catalyst, hardener, or activator. Plus a clear top coat may be added in many cases for enhanced durability, or depth.

Two Stage – Is used to describe a coating system that requires both base and clear coats. This is more commonly referred to as "basecoat/clearcoat" or "BC/CC". The coats of base and clear may or may not require a catalyst, hardener, or activator.

I'm so confused now tobes,

Cheers!

I don't understand any of that, BUT

I will be careful, I have a while til I spray anyway, need to replace 1 front wing, 1 bonnet, 2 door and buy a 6n2 boot and a 16v rear bumper

celly - normally a single stage paint, but can be lacquered, just dont mix it with other types as it will react! metalics can be painted in celly

1k - normally acrylic based and is the stuff found in spray cans. solid colours again dont require lacquer, but can be if desired. mets/pearls do need lacquer if you want a glossy finish

2k - nasty stuff in the wrong hands, contains iso-cyanates more often than not (this stuff is real bad for you) works best when used in a heated booth or with uv heat lamps. commonly a basecoat and laquer product but can also be had as a single stage for solid colours.. breathing apparatus such as an air-fed mask is adviseable when spraying this stuff.

water based - pretty new so i dont know much about it other than it takes a long time to dry without using heaters on it, so not really suitable for diy application unless you like having lots of dust in your paint!

I'm sure there are others on here who know lots more

theres also some info on gov website regarding health and safety

http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg388.pdf

http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/guidance/mr3.pdf

Ordered one of the guns jon,

How many litre's of 50/50 mix do you think for a full car re-spray?

I did mine with 2k, but i had access to all the correct equipment.

Apparently, its harder wearing stuff.

i had 2 liters of paint, so that equals to about 4 liters total. That gave me plenty left over to do other odds and sods, and do the doors + boot another 2 times.

Always better to have too much, as it will always be the same colour. where as if you need more later on and its mixed again, theres always a possibility it will be different. I've ran out now though, got an incy amount in the tin that has probably gone crappy now.

yeah its a lot more hard wearing. less prone to paint fade aswell

not sure if it's already been mentioned in this thread, but have you looked into rollers?

i considered doing that, it tends to come out quite well.

In the end i got it sprayed for cheap by my dad's mate, and prepped it myself so it was cheaper.

^ coach enamel/rustoleum. heard lots of good thinga about it. good option if painting a panel at a time, less wasteage, less mess. only major downside is it requires a lot of thin coats and pleanty of wet sanding to get a really good finish. I've seen some cars which have a better finish than sprayed cars. would hate to think how many hours it took them mind.

This wing was done with cans:

my entire front end is rattle canned, un lacquered - so it's a flat finish, the panels have been on a few weeks and i've had no problems. Just a bit of a patchy finish, but its only a 6n, and a budget job so i'm not really arsed at all, plus i don't have to polish it anymore ahah

this took a lot of paint - the car was flatted back to metal, then primed, then high build followed by a faint coat of black which was flatted back, this process was then repeated another 2 times, each coat was very thin as I didnt want to add too much weight to the car.

then the top coats were added in thin layers of 2 after each layer it would get sanded with a finer paper until I was happy with it.. this took me about 3 weeks to complete in a warm and dry garage, mopping the floors before coats to stop any potential dust lifting up.. only part I'm not happy with is the doors but that was partly to do with the prep of the panels

if your prep is shit the outcome will be shit, its all in the planning

gotta sort out the non starting issue and a cv joint first :(

while the cv is being done ill lower it a touch more