Right,

I need an idiots guide here on what I need to do.

I have a 1.4 8v 6n, with an APQ engine.

I think I have just purchased an AEE - I have no ECU, no key, no coil ring or immob unit.

I want to put the AEE into my 6n, running on bike carbs, using Mk2 ignition and a facet fuel pump.

I want the clocks to function as before, so:

Rev counter

Speedo

Oil warning light

Temp gauge

Water warning

Brake warning

Id also like the electric fan to work still.

Iv read somewhere about bridging fuel pump relays and all sorts, and if I run on mk2 ignition I can simply rid the ECU etc.

What do I need to do?

Surely I need the ECU to get the clocks working properly, or the fan etc.

Mine is a later 6n also, with the later clocks and later fuse box etc.

Its alright saying ''leave the ECU in to get everything like clocks to work'' but my ECU is for a 1.4, and ill be running AEE so they wont talk :/

I literally have no idea where to start, need an idiots guide, so I can have everything ready to swap over in a weekend. Need to know what parts to get etc.

I mean, am I going to have to hardwire everything? Or are there feeds etc in place I can use already?

Call me stupid, but I just really dont know, I know plenty of people with mk4's have changed engines and done carb conversions, so the info's there, but everywhere I seem to read different people say different things?

Thanks!

Any help appreciated guys! I know people have done it before so the info is there somewhere! :)

Also, the engine i'm getting will have no ECU, if I buy an ECU, do I need the immob unit and key from the same car...or can I connect just the ECU and program the keys to that with vagcom?

Or are immob units synced to ECU and keys syned to immob unit?

Thanks

Has anyone ran a mk4 without an ECU?

Just been looking at wiring diagrams..the ignition amp is connected to pin 24 on the ECU..and the intrument pack and the speedometer are connected to the ECU too.

I know the ignition amp gets a signal from the alternator...but on a mk2 loom does it just get the signal direct from the hall sender (ie instead of going from hall sender to ecu, from ecu to amp...just direct from hall sender to amp?)

I was basically thinking..I could unplug the ECU...remove the immob unit from under the dash...

Disconnect injectors/throttlebody/lambda sensor/knock sensor etc...

Disconnnect the hall sender connection off the mk4 loom..remove the coil and amp off the mk4, use the plug that it was connected to for the ignition feed and 12v feed for the mk2 amp and coil...there is also a ground connection too, however the mk2 loom has a seperate one?

Then the plug that goes to the amp...does this have the signal from the hall sender in?

So would literally be, unplug hall sender from mk4 loom...connect mk2 loom to dizzy...connect coil to 12+ & 12ign...and connect ground wire to batt/vehicle body.

I'm not sure whether it will bypass the ECU (ie if the ignition barrel connections are hard wired (bypassing ECU) so it would still crank/start/charge/keep sparking/keep fuel pump running?

I'm just a little confused...the engine I'm getting is coming with no ECU...so if I can get away without running one that would be good, but I have literally no idea if I need one or not...

If not ill have to get one and the immob unit and key for it etc...which would be annoying if I can get away without.

Theres loads of things connected to the ECU. such as the purge valve.

Also from looking at the diagram...the fuel relay is connected to the ECU...is this what is cut for the immobiliser? Hence starting then cutting out? So if I took a new wire from the relay to an ignition feed it would bypass the immob and keep the fuel pump running?

Really hope someone can help here. I'm sure someone knows haha :)

any help?

Now have an engine....need to see if I need any other bits? Anyone?