yello, basically i am going to be putting an AFH in my early mk2 breadvan (1982, with the hydraulic head (1.1) ) i have currently purchased vwII callipers with vwI carriers, brembo vented and grooved discs, green stuff pads, and goodridge braided hoses..

the question i need answering is.. is there an upgrade to the master cylinder? like a mk2 golf gti or something? and is it worth while? i do not want to put a servo in so please bare this in mind with any info...

Thanks for the help, Alex.

(p.s, its going in tomorrow for the upgrades :)... including coilovers )

golf mk 2 16valve (22mm) master cylender mate , you need to cut the push rod down on the pedal but boy it makes so much of a difference to the brakes , pedal feels verry hard but when you push they work really well , did this to my mk2 bike carbed good luck with it mate

golf mk 2 16valve (22mm) master cylender mate , you need to cut the push rod down on the pedal but boy it makes so much of a difference to the brakes , pedal feels verry hard but when you push they work really well , did this to my mk2 bike carbed good luck with it mate

cut the push rod on the pedal? please explain more :)

You shouldn't need to alter the master cylinder unless your upgrading the brake calipers. The above difference was probably due to having new brake fluid. However, I am upgrading to a 22mm mc (with golf gti brakes all round though). If you take your mc off you will see a steel push rod (attached to the pedal) which transfers the pressure from your foot to the mc. This needs to be shortened if changing to a golf gti item.

This info could come in handy :)

If you are running VWII brakes this really doesn't need doing.. Decent pads and fluid is all that is needed :) You will notice a huge difference with just these changed.

Bradied hoses, VW II calipers, greed stuff pads and grooved and drilled disc very good in the MK2.

Don't forget decent tyres its the rubber that grips the road

i have chosen not to go with the master cylinder as i didnt want to go cutting parts of my brakes :p and cause i ran out of time :(.. thanks for the info though.. will let you know how good they are

I was going to do the master cylinder upgrade but decided against because the brake pipes are at different location on master cylinder. the polo has the pipes horizontal and vertical and the golf have them at the angle on top of the cylinder.

Also early mk2 polo have the brake light switch on the master cylinder and the Golf doesn't so you have to check if the pedal box can have a brake light switch and the loom has the connection.

Just things to consider when doing the upgrade.

My polo has its brake light switch on the pedal. And whats the problem with the mointing of the pipes to the m.c as I've never heard anyone have any problems with having to adapt the pipework.

My polo has its brake light switch on the pedal. And whats the problem with the mointing of the pipes to the m.c as I've never heard anyone have any problems with having to adapt the pipework.

it's very early polo's that have the switch on the cylinder and the pedal doesn't have a place for the switch and the loom doesn't have the connection on the loom in the car. Like my 84 polo.

I didn't say it was a problem just something to consider old pipes rust and break

Edited 18 August, 201115 yr by residentmelon

It's about 1" to 1.5" that needs to be removed from the push rod.

And yea, the pipes do need to be adapted. I bent up all new lines for mine in the end. But I added a compensator and the line were starting to go any way. You may also find some mk2/3 have only 3 lines from the mc, but there are 4 outlets on the golf one. This means you need to block one off. I'm not aware of the switch problem, but I haven't tested all of the electrics yet

yeah thats about right , 1 1/4 inch ish , it will be how much shorter one is from the other master cylender , but dont worry to much as the push rod is adjustable ! yes on early models you need to fit a t piece for the brake light switch , as mine had . and normally you get a blanking bung with the master cylender ! made mine stop really well , will be putting one on my new mk3 and already run on my g40 , and no modding is needed for the mk3 as has servo and same shape master cylender !

I didn't get a blanking bung. Well, not one that would take any pressure. And where does the t-piece go? I don't remember seeing a switch when I removed my origin mc. Then again, undone remember seeing a switch anywhere!