Ok so lookin at eliminating my problem of a cluster playing up, checkin the fuses first, there blade fuses in the battery terminal, whats the difference between the fuses there and in the actual fuse box? As the ones in the fuse box are transparent and the ones on top of the battery are solid in colour but still have the same amp rating and i cant tell if ones blown, and dont want to gp ahead and replace if the fuse type is different...

Please dont insult me if I'm being stupid lol

I didn't know that there was a difference, but in any case, you can always check a fuse with a multi-meter if you have one, or rig up a simple test-light if you don't have a multi-meter.

Regards.

Aha, i new my curcuit light would come In handy :) ill double check wouldnt there be a current in there anyhow even with out a blade fuse??

Checked the fuses all seems good theres an open connection at the top enclosed so tried my current light on it they all work so looks like a clock job, which are already out just duno what to do wit em lol

"looks like a clock job, which are already out just duno what to do wit em lol"

-big hammer?

When you say playing up, what exactly do you mean? It could be a dodgy coonection or faulty sensor.

as long as The fuses are the same size (not bigger or smaller) then they would be the same, some just look different to others. I think the non clear? Type are the factory ones as most replacement fuses are clear.

Hth

Aha thats probably all they are i just was unsure if theu had a higher resistance or something :/

Yeah i have considered the hammer lol well tye problem is the airbag lights staying on, then the abs warning light flashes and buzzes, then the oil light warns out, then my rev counter drops out, I'm thinkin either an ecu problem or instrument cluster problem, the vag com is returning back a malfunctioning indication light, i think if it was ecu then the vag com wouldnt read?

I'm at my damn wits end! Hammer sounds easy to me lol

VAG con probably wouldn't show something like that, unless you scanned it while the problem is occurring, even then it's hit and miss.

it sounds like a bad connection somewhere. A similar thing happened to my 6n.

I solved it by removing the cluster and spraying electrical contact cleaner into the connections.

This worked for a while, then started again. I then did the same to the ecu and any other connector I could find in the engine bay, I used a toothbrush and also sprayed silicone lube (like wd40, only not oily) onto them to stop any moisture getting in.

This solved my problem and hasn't played up since.

It's worth a try in my books as it wouldn't hurt to know the connectors are okay.

HTH

Ok sounds like a plan, what connections r there? The two cluster connections, the ecu connection, what else? Tbf all the connections i can c r pretty clean but its worth a bash, anyone got any more advice as id say cleaning the connections would b a long shot

I did all the connectors under the bonnet, so things like coil packs coolant sensor.. To name a few.

Also there is a earthing point near the fuse box, I'd undo the 10mm bolt and sand the ring connectors and body work then put it back together.

Also thought just occurred, it could be the battery, is everything else, ie headlights heater blower etc working correctly?

I think they are ill double check that, so would say for instance coolant sensor is on its way, that would affect the instrument cluster as I'm describing? I'm talking the cluster is doing all these problems at once,

Vag com brought back A malfunctioning indication light, and says check all wiring and connections to the instrument cluster, now to confirm what connections gonthe the instrument cluster that would cause a malfunction like its doing?

All the problems are constant, they are not in and out, call me naieve but I'm not to sure a coil pack or anything like tht would affect the clocks as iv described?

To rule out the cluster you could always get one off eBay etc and swap them over.

I found one on eBay ; item number 120798351870

If it occurs again then it's something else.

Although from what you've told me it sounds to me like either a bad connection Somme where or a problem with the power supply, ie battery ,cables or earthing

I had a similar problem with my old touareg when it was new, I took it to 7 dealers and none of them could fix it. A mechanic friend changed the battery and everything was working.

Oh ok then, i think ill look into get a battery test as a first off then :) at least that would rule out a dud battery or even bad earthing, i could do a volt test for the earthing couldnt i?

Ill look at earthing points for the motor, just hope it something simple :( where are the earthing points on a 6n2 do u know? And also if i was to take the clocks out, and swap, i would have to programme them to the ecu wouldnt i?

Do u know where the main earthing point r by any chance?

The main earthing point is near the battery, just follow the cable and it should bolt to the body somewhere. There is also an earth for the clocks etc in the footwell area near the fuse box again bolted to the body.

As for the clocks, I'm not sure if they'd need coding as the immobiliser is separate, but that could be just the earlier 6n2s. Maybe someone can correct me?

Ooo i thought my immobiliser was in my clcocks lol ill have to check it out, i think id investigate the earthing points for the clocks, id have to try and see where they are i didnt think anythin like that could affect the clocks lol

I hope this gets sorted its a pain ill pist up on my investigation,

Anyone know about weather the clocks need codeing?

Does the car still start? Does your interior light work?

Yeah the car runs absolutley bang on apart from the dash issues,

I tested the electrics yesterday, i banged all electrics on, heater full pelt, the lot all were strong, i tested the gearbox earthing point and the battery earthing point all had a strong current (i couldnt find the on by the fuse box)

But just on that issue, if it was a bad earth/ sensor etc then surely the car would be running dodgey? Anyone know what fuse no for the dash cloxks is on a 6n2 so i can check it aint a poped fuse?

Anyone shed any more light in as i dont think its an earthing point, can sensors trip the clocks off and do what I'm describing to them?

Update, iv tested all the electrics, fuses, earths all seem fine with a good current runing through them, iv reset the clocks, unplugged em, sane issues occuring, starting to think its something a little more serious tgan connections

Anyone think what it could be i dont want to just go spunk money codeing new clocks in or replacing an ecu if its neither

Hey buddy.

Could you list the exact problems your getting, and when they ocure (ie when it's wet, cold, hot, engine under load, low on fuel etc) as there could be an easy fix if we trace each fault.

Ok so what happened was i was driving to work after about 10 mins the airbag light come on, then the abs light flashed with a warning, that was it,

As i drove it more over the next two days it happened more frequent as it would happen then it would go off but the airbag light is constantly on, then on the second day it would happen again every five minutes or so not nessecirily under load just normal driving conditions, then the oil light started flashing too and tge rev counter started to drop out,

Now its very rare it starts up without everything flashing, i haven't drove it properly for about a month now, its just on my drive occasionally cones off so nothing seizes, the vag com said it was a malfunctioning indication light, iv checked all fuses, iv checked the voltage on the alternator, and i have checked earths for a current (but not voltage) the voltage reading on the alternator was 15 volts which is plenty, iv took tge clocks off to check there connections and there fine still cliped in, iv tried unplugging the clocks and iv also reset the ecu, I'm at my witts with it now i really dont no whats wrong any help would b a massive one

Thanks in advance all

When you say VAG-COM says malfunctioning indication light. Did you do a full scan , or did you go into the instrument or central convenience menus?

I ask because maybe under full scan it didn't pickup anything because it may have skipped scanning them.

I would run vag con again without moving the car and go into instruments and check fault codes. If there are anything the note them down and then clear them. I would also check central convenience. Then take it for a drive until it starts playing up, then run VAGCOM again and check again for fault codes.

Also I'd tester the airbag light, but you do need a "registered" version to acces the airbags, it iwould most probably come up with a short to ground fault. If it allows you to clear it, then do so, and see if it comes on again. This happened to me a few times where the airbag light came on for no reason.

Let me know if you have any progress

Ok ill find out what scans were done, i know i cleared the faults and tgey returned, exactly the same, so say every fault was cleared, and it all stays the same again what sort of issue would i be lookin at? I dont tgink its tge ecu or cluster as if it was the car would be performing weird and cuttin out wouldnt it?

It was just a main scan done not particulate for the cluster, so i dont get it tho, as a scan was done and all codes were cleared, and theyve reapeared so i dont see how a seperate scan for the cluster and clearing the codes is going to help??? As a main scan lists everything doesnt it?

Depends on the version of vagcom, if it's not a registered copy then it skips alot of thee checks.

I'm only asking about the fault codes because doing it this way may give a clue as to what it is .

It could very well be the ecu, or the cluster itsaelf. Or something small like a loose connection or failed component.

Do you have vagcom? Or do you bring it to someone to have it checked?

I dont have a vagcom, but my mate does, he did say it was the full version, but I'm unsure now, if it was the ecu or cluster wouldnt the car just stop or the performance be affected? I might ask him to scan again, what exactly should i ask him to scan? The cluster?

It wouldn't necessarily effect performance. The 6n2 uses CAN (controlled area. Storming) which uses digital signals instead of analogue. Put simple, any distrubance in these signals could cause a fault. So even if the ecu or cluster is working fine put putting out just 1 incorrect signal, then it could bring up all sorts of problems.

I would run vag con again without moving the car and go into instruments and check fault codes. If there are anything the note them down and then clear them. I would also check central convenience. Then take it for a drive until it starts playing up, then run VAGCOM again and check again for fault codes.