hi all.

I have a 1.4 6n2 CL that i am currently working on and have got to stage where i am wanting to put remote central locking in, as the car doesnt even have central locking.

could some one shed some light on this subject please, i'm wanting to know how hard this is to do, what sort of locks i will need ect ect.

Or does anyone know of a person who could do all this for me in doncaster area.

Mine came with no central locking. Brought a kit from RClick and gotta say it been very good.

Pete.

Mine came with no central locking. Brought a kit from RClick and gotta say it been very good.

Pete.

Thanks For That.

Just comparing a few different kit's now and then i'll be ordering.

How did you find installing it, Easy, Hard???

Cheers, jake.

I bought one for mine, cost £25 and been great, with fitting it i would get someone who knows what their doing as it is very tricky, i saw the guy who fitted it doing it and looks pretty hard, cost me £80 to have it fitted but by all means give it a go :)

Dave

I fitted an RClick kit to my car when I was 19 and had no previous experience with anything like that, its not that difficult. There are a few pics of how I fitted the kit in my project log:

http://www.clubpolo.co.uk/forum/index.php?...t&p=2004173

The kit as supplied.

1. Mount the the motors inside the doors

2. attach the rods that link the motors to the door pins

3. mount the control uni, I chose to hide mine behind the panel thats under the steering wheel.

4. Run a power cable straight from the battery, entering the cockpit through the same gromet you use for running amp cables etc. For an earth I just sanded a small area in the footwell and used a self tapper.

Don't be put off by the mass of wiring, 10 of the those wires connect to the front motors, 8 of them are for the rear doors (unused on my 3dr) and the rest are simple. Everything is colour coded, you barely need the instructions in all honesty.

The only difficult part was getting the wires from inside the car to the doors, I didn't want to disturb the existing connector for the electric mirrors and speakers etc. I chose to drill a new hole below. I wrapped all cables in insulation tape and then again with some black conduit for the factory finished look. I know some people managed to drill out the original connector with enough space for the wires but I didn't like that idea.

Some advice though, I replaced the very thin power cable with a thicker gauge and used a propper fuse holder as the one they supply can be a bit dodgey. It's also a good idea to solder all of the connections to the motors in each door and use heatshrink rather than the push-together connectors supplied.

There is also a blue flashing LED supplied (optional) which is housed in a cheapy looking enclosure, I relocated this into one of the switch blanks:

Edited 14 November, 201114 yr by ryekye

I fitted an RClick kit to my car when I was 19 and had no previous experience with anything like that, its not that difficult. There are a few pics of how I fitted the kit in my project log:

http://www.clubpolo.co.uk/forum/index.php?...t&p=2004173

The kit as supplied.

1. Mount the the motors inside the doors

2. attach the rods that link the motors to the door pins

3. mount the control uni, I chose to hide mine behind the panel thats under the steering wheel.

4. Run a power cable straight from the battery, entering the cockpit through the same gromet you use for running amp cables etc. For an earth I just sanded a small area in the footwell and used a self tapper.

Don't be put off by the mass of wiring, 10 of the those wires connect to the front motors, 8 of them are for the rear doors (unused on my 3dr) and the rest are simple. Everything is colour coded, you barely need the instructions in all honesty.

The only difficult part was getting the wires from inside the car to the doors, I didn't want to disturb the existing connector for the electric mirrors and speakers etc. I chose to drill a new hole below. I wrapped all cables in insulation tape and then again with some black conduit for the factory finished look. I know some people managed to drill out the original connector with enough space for the wires but I didn't like that idea.

Some advice though, I replaced the very thin power cable with a thicker gauge and used a propper fuse holder as the one they supply can be a bit dodgey. It's also a good idea to solder all of the connections to the motors in each door and use heatshrink rather than the push-together connectors supplied.

There is also a blue flashing LED supplied (optional) which is housed in a cheapy looking enclosure, I relocated this into one of the switch blanks:

Thanks For That Mate, I'll Be Giving It A Go This Weekend!

Regards, Jake.

I fitted one to mine, I already had central locking so connected upto the wires in the drivers footwell (constant live) and put the box on top of the fuse box.

I can find out what colours to connect to what if u want?

Also got the remote closure so all the windows close when I lock it :)

I fitted one to mine, I already had central locking so connected upto the wires in the drivers footwell (constant live) and put the box on top of the fuse box.

I can find out what colours to connect to what if u want?

Also got the remote closure so all the windows close when I lock it :)

cheers mate that would also help,

well with mine only being the CL model i have manual windows so i'll be looking into an electric window conversion shortly.

http://www.rclick.co.uk/product_info.php?c...products_id=399

^ This is the kit i am looking into, could someone tell me if this would be suitable?

regards, Jake.

Had a look at my notes I did, from what I can tell...

Positive lock - green/white wires

Positive unlock - green/yellow

Permanent live - red/white

Ground - Brown

Indicators - 1 to black/white, 1 to black/green

I'd double check those before doing it mind, my notes are a mess

I connected to the wiring loom in the drivers footwell, got to it by removing the bonnet open handle then pulling the carpet back a bit, just connected using scotch blocks. The unit sits nicely ontop of the fuse box.

Think you've got a bit more work than that though.

That kits looks suitable, just bought similar one for my T4 :) you'll need to put the transponder chip in the new key & poss get a boot release kit.