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darkartist_13

Mk2 polo - stage 2 subframe

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darkartist_13

Has any one got 1 ?

And any tips ? Gonna attempt to fit it tomorrow that is all :)

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StinkyPete

if its brand new it takes alot longer to fit as the holes have to be matched up to your car. mine took nearly 5 hours start to finish to fit and i had it on and off about 3 times and its got to come off again this weekend for soem more tweeking as i only have 3 arb bolts in atm

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grungeisdead

I've fitted 5 subbys now on 4 different cars, some can be a pain, others can be a proper arsehole.

with the elongated holes, I've now welded large washers to the frame, so that it removes any potential for lateral movement from the elongated holes

the first one we ever fitted required some choice filing of the holes!

it is possible to fit it alone, but it is advisable to grab a friend otherwise some mega swearing with ensue!

anyway for fitting the stage 2 i did the following

- removed exhaust

- cracked off 19mm nuts on the ARB where it goes thru the TCA

- undid the front arb mounts (2 x 2 13mm bolts on either side)

- removed the 19mm arb nuts and pulled out the arb

- removed the 2 x 17mm bolts that go through the tca

- supported gearbox in place with axle stand

- removed gearlinkage and rear gearbox mount

- offered subframe up and put the 2 x 17mm bolts thru the rear of the frame ( probably need your friend here to help push the wheel in/out to get the frame and tca lined up for the bolt to go thru)

- put arb back thru the tca's and loosely tightend the 2 x 19mm nuts

- bolted up the front arb mounts with the g lader blocks in place

- tightend the 2 x 19mm nuts on the arb

- tightened the 2 x 17mm nuts that go thru the tcas and frame

- fitted stage 2 rear gearbox mount

- refitted gearlinkage

- refitted exhaust

- check everythings tight

- double check everythings tight

- drive and get tracking checked out (or do it by eye)

- double check everythings tight after a few miles

- enjoy =D

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prankstar2003

I really didnt struggle! I had the suspension off the car, and no engine or exhaust, drive shafts or anything. So maybe I had an advantage? Forgot to mention that earlier (I'd actually forgotten that totally).I'm going to get some washers welded to mine to I think as from what I've heard, those elongated holes can cause a fair amount of movement up front!

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grungeisdead

yeah man its on the mk2 turbo.

its been said it can cause excess movement, i couldnt say i had noticed a problem, but as i recently got a welder, i thought id have a do

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Cymro

Mine slid on, 30 mins tops for the whole job including checking alignment.

If the car is even slightly askew then your going to have problems fitting it.

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Cymro

:lol:

1) Measure position of wheel in the arch and remove wheels

2)remove front ARB & rear TCA's

3)fit frame and bolt up front

4) Fit rear TCA's

5) fit front TCA's

6) tyres

7) centralize to arch

8) Double check all bolts

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StinkyPete

cymro what about the exhaust that needs splitting gear linkage needs splitting and then you also need to remove rear gearbox mount and put new uprated one on after fitting the frame as it goes over all of these. its alot longer than half an hour and the front of my car has never had a knock or bump and believe me the frame did not match up hole wise on most of the holes took alot of tinkering.

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prankstar2003

What you mean is you've never had a knock in your car. Bashing a curb etc could out it out a mm or two. Enough to make it a hassle

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Cymro
cymro what about the exhaust that needs splitting gear linkage needs splitting and then you also need to remove rear gearbox mount and put new uprated one on after fitting the frame as it goes over all of these. its alot longer than half an hour and the front of my car has never had a knock or bump and believe me the frame did not match up hole wise on most of the holes took alot of tinkering.

Why do you need to split the exhaust and gear linkage? Did mine with out removing any of that.

Forgot about the gearbox mount. Sorry, That should take about 2/3 mins max. Jack up, undo mount, fit new mount tighten up, drop jack.

I must have just been extremely lucky that my car was perfectly straight :lol:

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darkartist_13
cymro what about the exhaust that needs splitting gear linkage needs splitting and then you also need to remove rear gearbox mount and put new uprated one on after fitting the frame as it goes over all of these. its alot longer than half an hour and the front of my car has never had a knock or bump and believe me the frame did not match up hole wise on most of the holes took alot of tinkering.

Why do you need to split the exhaust and gear linkage? Did mine with out removing any of that.

Forgot about the gearbox mount. Sorry, That should take about 2/3 mins max. Jack up, undo mount, fit new mount tighten up, drop jack.

I must have just been extremely lucky that my car was perfectly straight :lol:

I have a stainless 4 branch manifold , so am I needing to remove this ? Or can I not just work around it ? Sounds like a massive ball ache :( haha . Will wait for when I have more time :) and a friend to lend a hand :)

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Cymro

I just realised as well my stages are for fitting the stage 3, so ignore the bit about front arms, you just refit the ARB and rear TCA's.

and the PPP one would mean removing the linkage, and exhaust. The rear bar on the PPS one has a removable and tensionable rear brace.

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StinkyPete

He is fitting a ppp subframe Cymro that's why he has to undo exhaust and gear linkage and remove gearbox mount before fitting it

Edited by StinkyPete

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darkartist_13

Am I just needing to remove the exhaust manifold then ? Only just put it all on haha , god I hate cars !! And of it doesn't all go on in like 1 hour I'm hit it really hard with a massive hammer !! Hehe

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prankstar2003

You may get away with just disconnecting the exhaust mani from the back pipe and then sliding the subby over

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Yeti

Thread moved to FAQ. Hidden the first few posts so it cuts to the chase with Saf's post.

Top work fella! Just using it to fit mine.

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