Hey guys,

Does anyone know if it would be ok to wire the positive terminal from a voltmeter to the remote live on my headunit?

I've fitted a sub and want to keep an eye on the volts but I only want it on when the stereo is on.

Would it give a good reading of the cars electrics or will it just tell me what the headunit is kicking out?

Cheers,

Gaz

Hey guys,

Does anyone know if it would be ok to wire the positive terminal from a voltmeter to the remote live on my headunit?

I've fitted a sub and want to keep an eye on the volts but I only want it on when the stereo is on.

Would it give a good reading of the cars electrics or will it just tell me what the headunit is kicking out?

Cheers,

Gaz

If you use it daily I would run it direct to the battery, or direct with a switch, or even ignition live

And then u need to calibrate the meter with a multimeter

Hope this helps

Hey guys,

Does anyone know if it would be ok to wire the positive terminal from a voltmeter to the remote live on my headunit?

I've fitted a sub and want to keep an eye on the volts but I only want it on when the stereo is on.

Would it give a good reading of the cars electrics or will it just tell me what the headunit is kicking out?

Cheers,

Gaz

If you use it daily I would run it direct to the battery, or direct with a switch, or even ignition live

And then u need to calibrate the meter with a multimeter

Hope this helps

Whys that then fella. Dont really wanna go down the switched live route cos i will forget to turn it off and empty the battery.

The idea was to have it linked with the headunit so it switched on and off with that, like the amp for the sub. Just cos i think it would be funky lol

I wouldn't use the amp wire because it's been through the head unit so probably won't give a true reading. The switched feed into the head unit would probably be a better call.

I had 3 battery's and used daily so it wasn't going flat too soon, best option for you would be wiring it off the ignition but make sure you calibrate it you don't want false readings

They hardy use any power too

on the subject of this, I've wired 2 plasma gauges into my head unit 12v live, as I'm not using a sterio. but I'm wondering if it actually delivers enough power as when they both come on the more of a reading they show (more lights) the dimmer they get?

on the subject of this, I've wired 2 plasma gauges into my head unit 12v live, as I'm not using a sterio. but I'm wondering if it actually delivers enough power as when they both come on the more of a reading they show (more lights) the dimmer they get?

Stick a multimeter on the battery then the live your using, I've only seen the illumination dim before

yeah the illumination dims the mmore the gauges read. what could it be? maybe i need a stronger live?

yeah the illumination dims the mmore the gauges read. what could it be? maybe i need a stronger live?

Do you have three wires if so u want the meters live direct to the battery or alternator, then your ground ovcourse and then your remote that can be a live off an aftermarket switch, ignition so the red wire off your headunit

nah just a pos, neg and signal. my head unit wiring is constantly live (for some reason always has bin) so i put it on that withh a switch

nah just a pos, neg and signal. my head unit wiring is constantly live (for some reason always has bin) so i put it on that withh a switch

Oh right, erm for you then i would run a new wire direct from the battery or alternator and the signal off your switch wired into your headunits live

Can I ask y do you have two guiges ?

nah just a pos, neg and signal. my head unit wiring is constantly live (for some reason always has bin) so i put it on that withh a switch

Oh right, erm for you then i would run a new wire direct from the battery or alternator and the signal off your switch wired into your headunits live

Can I ask y do you have two guiges ?

yeah may try that and see if its any diffrent.

got an air/fuel gauge and oil pressure. gonna get a third one at some point

I've wired mine directly to my battery, its the better idea as taht will give you the most accurate readings.

personally, i'd use a relay, you can use the remote as the trigger so that the gauge only reads when the remote is on and it'll take the reading directly from the battery (if you wire it correctly!)

Yep, use a relay.

Pin 86 - switched feed from h/u

Pin 85 - ground ( brown at Iso)

Pin 30 - constant +12v

Pin 15/87 - to amp and volt guage.

This is what I would personally do, because most h/u put out 5v for there amp feeds, which is usually enough for one amp, but anything more you should use a relay.

You can also run things like lights and fans etc off this too.

I have my relay in the boot next to the amp and it uses the amps power feeds, I also have a fan on my amp which uses the relay.

What about an ammeter between the amp and battery, that way when you crank it it will move when the amp draws more power

HTH

Edited 30 November, 201114 yr by dixy

i wired mine into the back of the heated rear window switch om my 6n2, when i switch the heater on it bypasses the gauge (easiest way to earth via the heated window) so if i get tired of looking at it i can easiy switch it off.

Sorted now switch was wired up wrong. Still wired to my head unit wiring but now all good.

you really want a relay with pins 30/85/86/87 pins.

one should be fitted to the battery and fused, one earth, one to your swithed live (can be the black wire going to the ignition column) and one to your guage(s).

that way it'll only turn on, when your engine is one.

if you have a bulb on your guage, you can also wire that up to your light switch, so the light only comes on when your vehicle headlights are on.