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2000 Polo saloon electric window & central locking fault.

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Hi

I'm buying a Polo saloon this evening which has faulty electric windows and central locking.

When you turn the key in the drivers door it will go half turn left or right, but not unlock the door.

When you turn the key in the passengers door it will unlock the door but not activate the central locking.

So currently you have to open the car from the passengers side and then open any other doors from inside the car.

The electric windows do not operate at all.

------------

Does anyone have any idea what the possible causes / solutions could be?

I'm not very technical minded but was thinking fitting remote central locking could be a cheap solution but would I need to confirm the central locking pump was working first?

Many thanks,

Baz

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Yes it would solve it in a way, but if the remote dies then your back to square one.

It could be the drivers door barrel has come away from the lock (coomon) and the micro switch is not work as a result. You can test at the pun but I will have to check which wires to bridge.

It isn't uncommon for both door locks to mess up.

As with the windows it could be a fuse, the switch, the wiring between the door and car or the regulator itself.

HTH

  • Author

nice one, thanks for the reply.. With so much to check for its difficult to know where to start so thats a great help.

cheers

baz

  • Author

well i started having a play today..

Firstly checking all fuses, which were unfortunately all okay.

then i took apart the central locking pump which looks to be in good order.

i removed both handles. the drivers side is broken behind the handle, so wasnt reaching the plastic mech part.

i wedged a flat head screwdriver in to mimic the locking action and the central locking still doesnt work.

if you hold for a few seconds once turned either way you can here a small click somewhere possible inside the door.

the passenger side was complete so i swapped the handles over before refitting. at least now i can lock and unlock the drivers door, i'll just have to let passengers in from inside the car for now, like the old days.

not quite sure what to check next. i do have a key fob too, but this is completely inactive.

The central locking consists of of two switches a pump, 6 actuators, piping and wiring.

The fault has to be in one of them, most commonly it's the pump or the door switches.

The door switch are located in the door ( this could be what's clicking ) and has three wires ( a common live, lock and unlock. So if you removed this switch and bridge either either lock or unlock with live then the pump should work. The switches themselves sometimes break, but rarely both sides.

As for the pump, this could be burned out or water damaged, and Is sometimes difficult to tell. Again you can test if it's working by bridge the lock or unlock signals with a live feed, but I will have to check to see which colour they are. The pumps usually burn out because one of the vaccun connection seals has come away or broken, this makes the pump run overtime and burns out the brushes in the motor. And they get water damaged by a leaky seal in the boot, I'm not sure if this effects the classic as much as the 6n, but it's possible.

As for fob, does the light on it work when you press a button?, if not then I'd recommend replacing it and see if that works. Also worth trying to see where the remote locking unit is fitted ( assuming it's not a vw one), because these units are attached to the same locking wires and may have broken or are bad connections. If a remote unit is fittd poorly it will come back to bite you in the ass!.

HTH

Was just browing on ebay and came accross a polo saloon front door lock repair kit. Might be of interest to you...

Ebay item: 310247301487

PoloD.

  • Author

thanks again for the replies, today i have:

tested and bought a used central locking pump. the central locking now works! Although very slowly - 1 door locks or unlocks at a time. I guess this means i have a leak in the vacuum system somewhere, so will need to go round checking - any particular problem areas?

i bought replacement parts as per the kit PoloD linked to, however I think one part was slightly wrong as you cant turn the key quite far enough on the passengers door now to lock or unlock :(

the light works on the fob i have, however even now with the pump working nothings happening. the previous owners hadn't been using the fob for a while so i suspect whatever controls it has broken over the years.

no joy with the electric windows. i took the driver door card off and theres nothing obviously broken inside. Apparently both stopped working at the same time, so what could be a common part between the two? Also, you can hear the clicking inside each door when you flick the switches on the centre console which leads me to believe a signal must be getting into the door, but the problem is between whatever clicks and whatever gets the windows to move?

Cheers

Baz

Edited by bristolbaron

Hi Baz,

It could be the actual window regulator giving you 'jip' if your hearing a click noise from the door, i had the same problem with my passenger door window on my 6n hatch. I replaced it with a new 1 and now its perfect. and i now have the same problem with my central locking as you had only to find that my pump HAS burnt out :( so its a new 1 for me and check for any leaks first... how did you check your lines for leaks out of interest ???

Jamie

  • Author
Hi Baz,

It could be the actual window regulator giving you 'jip' if your hearing a click noise from the door, i had the same problem with my passenger door window on my 6n hatch. I replaced it with a new 1 and now its perfect. and i now have the same problem with my central locking as you had only to find that my pump HAS burnt out :( so its a new 1 for me and check for any leaks first... how did you check your lines for leaks out of interest ???

Jamie

so did you change the motor or all the wires and clips and stuff?

could well be that both have gone, I'm just a bit concerned that as they went at the same time its a bit weird..

i haven't checked the lines yet, apparently i need to block each line and see which one improves the central locking.. sounds like a long winded process.. I've been told to start with the fuel cap then drivers door.. after that its just a guess..

to me, it seems that all your problems are in the rubber boot between the door and the car. this is where the vacuum lines fail, and the weak point for the windows. because the wires are stressed at this point and usually break.

take them off by twisting the ring and pull the connector out, then pull the rubber boot away and look at the wires. there should be a big red and brown wires. if these are damaged then they need to be cut and use another piece of wire and solder it together.

on the connector there is a pipe which goes into a white connector on the car side. there is a little seal on this. what i do is put a bit of silicone sealer onto both parts and connect it back. then tighten the ring properly.

hopefully this solves the problems.

Sorry to hear that the replacement parts are not working. Did you check that your keys have 'HAA' stamped on them?

If this is all correct, suggest contacting ebay seller for correct parts! (you did pay £15 after all!).

PoloD.

  • Author
to me, it seems that all your problems are in the rubber boot between the door and the car. this is where the vacuum lines fail, and the weak point for the windows. because the wires are stressed at this point and usually break.

take them off by twisting the ring and pull the connector out, then pull the rubber boot away and look at the wires. there should be a big red and brown wires. if these are damaged then they need to be cut and use another piece of wire and solder it together.

on the connector there is a pipe which goes into a white connector on the car side. there is a little seal on this. what i do is put a bit of silicone sealer onto both parts and connect it back. then tighten the ring properly.

hopefully this solves the problems.

I'll have a proper dig around in that area.. I've left the card off so half the jobs already done. From just pulling back the rubber boot it all looks in really good nick in there, but i guess its worth a proper look around.

Sorry to hear that the replacement parts are not working. Did you check that your keys have 'HAA' stamped on them?

If this is all correct, suggest contacting ebay seller for correct parts! (you did pay £15 after all!).

PoloD.

not your fault bud, I bought the parts from TPS as i was going in there anyway. most of it is correct, but theres one piece with an extra lip which i think is catching. I was tempted to cut it off and see if it worked but I'm going back again this week anyway.

Cheers

Baz

  • 3 months later...
  • Author

Well the electric windows are still not working.. had a proper look around the wiring around the hinge area and it's all like new.

I think its got to be related to the motor or mechanism, I also noticed that the wire and plug at the bottom doesnt sit tight like the top one does.

I cant see any way of repairing or tightening this, so guess I have to replace the lot. With the window still in the up position will everything come out if I unbolt it all?

I'm just thinking how tricky its gonna be to slide the old mech out.. it doesnt look like I can replace the motor only whilst its all still in anyway.

Will this caddy one be the right part for a saloon? Ebay link..

539535_10150632920436769_515581768_92729

Don't buy another one until you try fixing this one. It's common for them to break in the fixing as at the runners. I fixed all mine with a tube of quick steel. Clean both broken parts well then sand them down so they are rOugh. Then mix up and stick them together. It's also common for the wiring to come lose where it meats the motor, just cut off the plastic cap and resoldering te wires, then cover with silicone. To remove the mech from the door lower the window until you see the securing bolts through the two hole either side of the runners. USO them the either slide the window out or up and tape it to the door. Then unbolt the four other bolts and then twist one side out at a time. Refit in reverse order.

Also I don't think the caddy one is the same, but I could be wrong.

HTH

  • Author

trouble is i cant see whats broken to try fixing it and the window is stuck in the up position - i cant lower the windows as they're not working!

Ah, I overlooked that.

Do you have a volt meter/damn? Is so then measure voltage at the connector, while you press the switch. If there is 12v there then you have to look at the connection between motor and socket. If there is no, or little voltage then you either have a Brock or weak wire, a dodgy earth connection or a faulty switch(least likely, but possible).

If ther Is no voltage at the connector the you could hard wire it to the battery if it doesnt go down first time then swap the wires round.

HTH

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