The suspension will be air on mine and have two settings a high setting for general driving and a super low setting for shows and yes I'm redesigning the suspension so that runs normal but lowering the chassis as in raising the top mounts at least 30mm and I'm raising the engine at least 40mm for clearance too.

I'm not going to be driving this normal every day so i dont want to go down the air route as it would be adding weight of the air tank and all the bits to go with the whole system having low all the time will be the best route for me personally as it would be used track and drag strip only and of course shows I'm not sure what to do tho suspension wise as in what car i should use for this or if i should just go from scratch and get a set up from new like you would do with a kit car or something along them lines

how did you design your space frame too ??

Surely itd be easier just to use the V6?

Surely itd be easier just to use the V6?

what are the tuning capabilities of the v6 and price wise ?

2.8/3.2 24v VR6 can make 230-250ish bhp without opening it up. N/A tuning is not cost effective. 400 bhp for about £5k of S/C kit. Can go to 500 with sueprcharging but starts to get nearly as expensive as high end turbo bits. 800 bhp for £15k worth of turbo goodies.

would it be cheaper going with a 1.8t 20v and turning that up and remember i dont need to go silly amounts of turning as the car is going to be pritty lite

would it be cheaper going with a 1.8t 20v and turning that up and remember i dont need to go silly amounts of turning as the car is going to be pritty lite

You'll be suprised as to how heavy AWD gear and the metal work to get it in the car is! Not going to shed that much by loosing a few panels to fibreglass or carbon either. I'd be surprised if it was the weight of a standard g40, if not heavier. Still it'll be a torque monster, so i'd just go for a 1.8t, a Garrett 2870rs, larger injectors and a remap and see 350bhp all day long.

I'm slightly skeptical of this coming to fruition to be honest mate. However, if youve got the skills and funds, go for it!

would it be cheaper going with a 1.8t 20v and turning that up and remember i dont need to go silly amounts of turning as the car is going to be pritty lite

You'll be suprised as to how heavy AWD gear and the metal work to get it in the car is! Not going to shed that much by loosing a few panels to fibreglass or carbon either. I'd be surprised if it was the weight of a standard g40, if not heavier. Still it'll be a torque monster, so i'd just go for a 1.8t, a Garrett 2870rs, larger injectors and a remap and see 350bhp all day long.

what sort of weight are we talking about here because a standard mk2f coupe weighs between 765kg and 830kg kerb according to my Haynes manual,

and weight coming out of my polo when i start this project will be a lot of metal work

Should have hopefully just sorted a syncro box and rear diff and my plans definately are happening I have a large majority of the basic stuff already

I'm slightly skeptical of this coming to fruition to be honest mate. However, if youve got the skills and funds, go for it!

the insurance for my car end in April so my new car will get insured and the polo is going to come off the road and into the garage for work to start at the moment my main objective is to get as much money as i possible can I'm currently working 10 hours days :( a lot of the work I'm going to do is going to be done a lot by myself, friends and family who have other skills and access to equipment, at the moment I'm also doing as much of my research and designs as i possible can. it may be a hard project and i have to be honest I'm not one for doing things the easy way but then again I'm also a bit of a perfectionist, I'm not planning on doing this project in a rush either as i want it done properly (perfectionist in me)

anyone who has knowledge and advice to help with the project is always much appreciated and is very much welcome

would it be cheaper going with a 1.8t 20v and turning that up and remember i dont need to go silly amounts of turning as the car is going to be pritty lite

You'll be suprised as to how heavy AWD gear and the metal work to get it in the car is! Not going to shed that much by loosing a few panels to fibreglass or carbon either. I'd be surprised if it was the weight of a standard g40, if not heavier. Still it'll be a torque monster, so i'd just go for a 1.8t, a Garrett 2870rs, larger injectors and a remap and see 350bhp all day long.

what sort of weight are we talking about here because a standard mk2f coupe weighs between 765kg and 830kg kerb according to my Haynes manual,

and weight coming out of my polo when i start this project will be a lot of metal work

You might be removing a lot of metal, but it wont be heavy metal as that is the structural stuff!

You'll then be adding:

Front subframe/wishbones which were never there

Heavier gearbox w/transfer box

another set of driveshafts

a rear subframe, diff and propshaft

another set of wishbones on the rear

larger engine which in turn carries more oil and water

larger radiator

more pipework

intercooler

probably roll cage

larger wheels to clear larger brakes

spaceframe/strengthening

heavier flywheel

for 10sec 1/4s you'll want an LSD, but you'll need 2, 1 for the front and 1 for the back..

etc etc

I mean there isnt a great deal of difference between the weight of a mk1 golf and a mk3 polo, there is a difference i know, but you wonder why its taken Andy Waites mk1 golf over 600bhp to do 10sec 1/4?

it wont weigh massive amounts but i dont think you'll get it under 850kgs easily. Just my 2ps worth.

I thought it all through and very easily decided that its not worth it, unless you have the funds, experience and knowledge and time to take it seriously. Its an expensive venture for some weekend fun. Whereas people have proved that a g40 will do 12's, can still be registered on the road, still be fun to drive, not take "xx" years to build and you could do it with the money you'd have spent on parts and fabrication alone to get the engine/awd in a shell.

Edited 3 January, 201214 yr by .Joe

Should have hopefully just sorted a syncro box and rear diff and my plans definately are happening I have a large majority of the basic stuff already

where did you source the box and diff from... ebay?? or else where

one of my options is to buy a salvage or damaged car and rip it to bits to get the parts i need from it

would it be cheaper going with a 1.8t 20v and turning that up and remember i dont need to go silly amounts of turning as the car is going to be pritty lite

You'll be suprised as to how heavy AWD gear and the metal work to get it in the car is! Not going to shed that much by loosing a few panels to fibreglass or carbon either. I'd be surprised if it was the weight of a standard g40, if not heavier. Still it'll be a torque monster, so i'd just go for a 1.8t, a Garrett 2870rs, larger injectors and a remap and see 350bhp all day long.

what sort of weight are we talking about here because a standard mk2f coupe weighs between 765kg and 830kg kerb according to my Haynes manual,

and weight coming out of my polo when i start this project will be a lot of metal work

You might be removing a lot of metal, but it wont be heavy metal as that is the structural stuff!

You'll then be adding:

Front subframe/wishbones which were never there

Heavier gearbox w/transfer box

another set of driveshafts

a rear subframe, diff and propshaft

another set of wishbones on the rear

larger engine which in turn carries more oil and water

larger radiator

more pipework

intercooler

probably roll cage

larger wheels to clear larger brakes

spaceframe/strengthening

heavier flywheel

etc etc

it wont weigh massive amounts but i dont think you'll get it under 850kgs easily. Just my 2ps worth.

that is a fair comment joe i appreciate it a lot it gives me more to think about and plan so your helping me out here, there will be some structural metal work coming out due to having a roll cage/space frame built into the car all the top mounts will be coming out of the car and being replaced with ones that are part of the space frame

the basic shape of the car and its identity will remain so that everyone knows that its a polo but there will be tweeks to give it an edge to show its something different but then underneath it will be in theory a "Wolf in sheep's cloths"

Edited 3 January, 201214 yr by pascoe92

would it be cheaper going with a 1.8t 20v and turning that up and remember i dont need to go silly amounts of turning as the car is going to be pritty lite

You'll be suprised as to how heavy AWD gear and the metal work to get it in the car is! Not going to shed that much by loosing a few panels to fibreglass or carbon either. I'd be surprised if it was the weight of a standard g40, if not heavier. Still it'll be a torque monster, so i'd just go for a 1.8t, a Garrett 2870rs, larger injectors and a remap and see 350bhp all day long.

what sort of weight are we talking about here because a standard mk2f coupe weighs between 765kg and 830kg kerb according to my Haynes manual,

and weight coming out of my polo when i start this project will be a lot of metal work

You might be removing a lot of metal, but it wont be heavy metal as that is the structural stuff!

You'll then be adding:

Front subframe/wishbones which were never there

Heavier gearbox w/transfer box

another set of driveshafts

a rear subframe, diff and propshaft

another set of wishbones on the rear

larger engine which in turn carries more oil and water

larger radiator

more pipework

intercooler

probably roll cage

larger wheels to clear larger brakes

spaceframe/strengthening

heavier flywheel

etc etc

it wont weigh massive amounts but i dont think you'll get it under 850kgs easily. Just my 2ps worth.

that is a fair comment joe i appreciate it a lot it gives me more to think about and plan so your helping me out here, there will be some structural metal work coming out due to having a roll cage/space frame built into the car all the top mounts will be coming out of the car and being replaced with ones that are part of the space frame

the basic shape of the car and its identity will remain so that everyone knows that its a polo but there will be tweeks to give it an edge to show its something different but then underneath it will be in theory a "Wolf in sheep's cloths"

If thats the case then personally i'd be inclined to go for whatever 4wd system you feel is best. If you can stretch to haldex then thats what i'd do. A TTrs rear subframe including diff can be had for around £400, work it all into a complete "kit car" style frame and stitch whatever is left of the polo over the top, seeing as it isnt going to be road worthy. Probably the easiest way around it.

I sourced them both elsewhere for less than you can buy a rear diff off eBay I'm pretty happy just need to sort a propshaft and that's the main bits sourced for me drivetrain wise and sorry to say but I'm keeping my frame designs a secret ATM want to make sure it's all good and in all I don't think I will be adding a lot more weight anyway as I'm planning on using thin sheet ally for the panelling inside to save weight

Joe why wouldn't that be road worthy I'm planning mine to be it will just need one of those sv tests and then a normal mot

would it be cheaper going with a 1.8t 20v and turning that up and remember i dont need to go silly amounts of turning as the car is going to be pritty lite

You'll be suprised as to how heavy AWD gear and the metal work to get it in the car is! Not going to shed that much by loosing a few panels to fibreglass or carbon either. I'd be surprised if it was the weight of a standard g40, if not heavier. Still it'll be a torque monster, so i'd just go for a 1.8t, a Garrett 2870rs, larger injectors and a remap and see 350bhp all day long.

what sort of weight are we talking about here because a standard mk2f coupe weighs between 765kg and 830kg kerb according to my Haynes manual,

and weight coming out of my polo when i start this project will be a lot of metal work

You might be removing a lot of metal, but it wont be heavy metal as that is the structural stuff!

You'll then be adding:

Front subframe/wishbones which were never there

Heavier gearbox w/transfer box

another set of driveshafts

a rear subframe, diff and propshaft

another set of wishbones on the rear

larger engine which in turn carries more oil and water

larger radiator

more pipework

intercooler

probably roll cage

larger wheels to clear larger brakes

spaceframe/strengthening

heavier flywheel

etc etc

it wont weigh massive amounts but i dont think you'll get it under 850kgs easily. Just my 2ps worth.

that is a fair comment joe i appreciate it a lot it gives me more to think about and plan so your helping me out here, there will be some structural metal work coming out due to having a roll cage/space frame built into the car all the top mounts will be coming out of the car and being replaced with ones that are part of the space frame

the basic shape of the car and its identity will remain so that everyone knows that its a polo but there will be tweeks to give it an edge to show its something different but then underneath it will be in theory a "Wolf in sheep's cloths"

If thats the case then personally i'd be inclined to go for whatever 4wd system you feel is best. If you can stretch to haldex then thats what i'd do. A TTrs rear subframe including diff can be had for around £400, work it all into a complete "kit car" style frame and stitch whatever is left of the polo over the top, seeing as it isnt going to be road worthy. Probably the easiest way around it.

I've not really read up on haldex but you seem to know abit could you explain a little for me as it might be an option ?

a ttrs rear subframe including diff I'm guessing thats from a breakers yard or ebay at that sort of price ?

I'm going to cut the floor out as its going to need a big tunnel and chop the bulkhead to be able to fit the new engine and gearbox and most of the front end it coming off and being replaced with space frame and its not being road legal its just going to be for the drag strip and track

i just want to do something very different and some might say "crazy" too and its defiantly a built NOT brought car unlike some of the sponsored by mum and dad cars you see

I sourced them both elsewhere for less than you can buy a rear diff off eBay I'm pretty happy just need to sort a propshaft and that's the main bits sourced for me drivetrain wise and sorry to say but I'm keeping my frame designs a secret ATM want to make sure it's all good and in all I don't think I will be adding a lot more weight anyway as I'm planning on using thin sheet ally for the panelling inside to save weight

i don't want to share your design plans as that's your hard work for your benefit mate I'm just wondering where you did it have you drawn the designs up or done it on CAD software ?

I sourced them both elsewhere for less than you can buy a rear diff off eBay I'm pretty happy just need to sort a propshaft and that's the main bits sourced for me drivetrain wise and sorry to say but I'm keeping my frame designs a secret ATM want to make sure it's all good and in all I don't think I will be adding a lot more weight anyway as I'm planning on using thin sheet ally for the panelling inside to save weight

You haven't mentioned how you plan on mating the 02 type box to an 084/5 block bolt pattern pete?

I know the diff and box you have just bought as i considered it for a corrado we're building, very good price.

When i looked in to this i thought about how i'd have my rear subframe etc, but could never be certain that the geometry would ever be right to not put excess stress on everything else, the size of the diff really limits the space you have underneath and either side of it for the angles of wishbone mounting points etc. Propshaft will have to be altered regardless of which car it comes off, but i guess you can get that done easily enough in your line of work?

I;ve decided that a rebuilt 02A with diff, traction control through my emerald will be plenty fun enough and a lot cheaper hence why i abandoned it. But i'll be very excited to see a road going 4wd polo underway though

I sourced them both elsewhere for less than you can buy a rear diff off eBay I'm pretty happy just need to sort a propshaft and that's the main bits sourced for me drivetrain wise and sorry to say but I'm keeping my frame designs a secret ATM want to make sure it's all good and in all I don't think I will be adding a lot more weight anyway as I'm planning on using thin sheet ally for the panelling inside to save weight

You haven't mentioned how you plan on mating the 02 type box to an 084/5 block bolt pattern pete?

I know the diff and box you have just bought as i considered it for a corrado we're building, very good price.

When i looked in to this i thought about how i'd have my rear subframe etc, but could never be certain that the geometry would ever be right to not put excess stress on everything else, the size of the diff really limits the space you have underneath and either side of it for the angles of wishbone mounting points etc. Propshaft will have to be altered regardless of which car it comes off, but i guess you can get that done easily enough in your line of work?

I;ve decided that a rebuilt 02A with diff, traction control through my emerald will be plenty fun enough and a lot cheaper hence why i abandoned it. But i'll be very excited to see a road going 4wd polo underway though

i look forward to seeing it started as you will be starting yours a month before me and i have to say i liked my idea being non road legal but i think a road going 4wd polo will be fantastic, have either of these ideas been done before my any chance ?

Joe why wouldn't that be road worthy I'm planning mine to be it will just need one of those sv tests and then a normal mot

SVA tests and chassis modifications are very specific these days, i'd have a good read up first before taking the grinder to your pride and joy. I'm not entirely sure on the rules and regs as they are forever changed but i'd look into it.

EDIT: I think i stand corrected on the SVA test, i cant find anywhere on it, but i do know my brother had his Landrover with chassis and suspension mounting modifications refused an MOT without an SVA, and the SVA wanted to do tests, documented build photos etc.

I'm not going 4wd, sticking fwd. Much easier! But in answer to your question, look on youtube and there are videos of vr6 turbo mk3 polos and build photos, show just how easy it can look, but in reality, its not!

Edited 3 January, 201214 yr by .Joe

Joe why wouldn't that be road worthy I'm planning mine to be it will just need one of those sv tests and then a normal mot

SVA tests and chassis modifications are very specific these days, i'd have a good read up first before taking the grinder to your pride and joy. I'm not entirely sure on the rules and regs as they are forever changed but i'd look into it.

if something becomes modified to an extent where the vehicles identity is no long able to be established i think they give the vehicle a Q plate, I'm not 100% sure so please don't quote me on it, but i think you will be able to have it road going it just wont be classed as a polo no more

all the sva stuff you should be able to find from the gov website, it most likely link you to another website tho for more information

has there every been any in this country or is it just some crazy germans ?

Edited 3 January, 201214 yr by pascoe92

lots of info here http://www.the-ace.org.uk/ as soon as you modify the original monocoque you will be liable for a biva/iva test , Mark

If it was me I'd just fuck the vag running gear off buy a twated scooby and use the engine/running gear from that. They are so popular that used tuning mods mist be available pretty cheaply and the cars themselves are cheap enough to buy. With only the top of the range vag cars running the sort of setup you want its always going to be expensive in parts alone

Plus the boxer engine would get rid on any engine clearance issues with height and sound pretty fucking cool