right, well about 3 years ago my mum took her car to have the cam belt done, since shes had it back the temp and fuel guages havnt worked, the petrol light is ALWAYS on and the coolant light constantly flashes. now this wasnt a problem for her, she didnt get it looked at as the car runs perfectly fine like this

now I've brought it off her its bugging me so want to fix it.

i have changed the temp sensor with one from a scrappy as it was a coupel of quid and this did nothing which leads me to think its not the actual sensoprs as they are at different ends of the car. I'm hoping its not the clocks that are fucked as that wont be cheap to fix

any ideas?

VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.0

Tuesday, 10 January 2012, 11:20:17:0

Control Module Part Number: 1J0 919 911 B

Component and/or Version: KOMBI+WEGFAHRS. MM0 V16

Software Coding: 00442

Work Shop Code: WSC 00000

Additional Info: Ident.-Nr. WEGFAHRS.:VWZ6Z0W0691354

2 Faults Found:

00771 - Unknown Error Code

30-00 - Unknown Error Elaboration

01039 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs

64-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent

i found a really useful PDF since the free vagcom doesn't give full errors, especially if there are multiple errors..

http://www.airbagnews.com/PDF/Fehlercodes%...G%20english.pdf

00771 - Fuel Level Sensor -G

01039 - ECT Sensor -G2

Hope this helps you narrow down the causes!

hmm, the 'G'...could that be a ground problem maybe?

Most probably a corroded connector at the fuel sender / pump.

Whip the back seat base off and find the round metal plate secured on with screws. remove it. Unplug the connectors and take a look at both sides. It may not be easy to spot, so what I do is scrape the male pins with a screwdriver or razor blade etc until they are shiny ( means your through to metal).

I usually remove each of the female pins one by one, using a strong safety pin to push the tabs in. I would then use sand paper to clean between the two contacts, then bend them to get a better contact.

I have done this on a few vws, seems to be a common problem.

As for the G2 error I think that means the g2 earth point, which is near the expansion tank usually. Have you checked the sensor, it may not be plugged in all the way, or the coolant could be just under the sensor.

Also maybe the coolant is too low, this would usually give a zero reading, this could also indicate a faulty thermostat.

HTH

hmm, the 'G'...could that be a ground problem maybe?

"G" is the just the component ID on the wiring diagrams ie the sensor in the tank

"G2" is the coolant temp sensor in the thermostat housing combined with the sensor for the ECU "G62"

Edited 10 January, 201214 yr by nige8021

well i replaced the coolant sensor before with one from a scrappy and it did nothing. it cant be the coolant level or something as its been like it for 2 years, has to be more too it than that. as for the earth point i think they are all under the battery tray from reading but its getting dark now so i wont see sod all in the engine bay now so will look into that tomorrow morning

will however give the connectors on the fuel sender a scrape, though I'm not sure how under the seat they can corrode but worth a go i spose

ill get a pic of the sensor i replaced already and post it soon

edit: any idea where the 2nd temp sender is? i was told theres two nbut the only one I've found is on the right side of the block where the themo housing is (1.9 tdi 90bhp)

Edited 10 January, 201214 yr by m60_maniac

9) Coolant temperature sender (G62) ◆ With coolant temperature gauge sender (G2

number 9 is what i replaced from the looks of it.

right, I've tried scraping the conection of the fuel sender with no joy. someone has said about a loose conection on the clocks but I'm not convinced by that as everything else is fine and has been for years.

very odd...

If you have a multi-meter handy you could check for a good ground/earth on pin 2 of both of the relevant connectors and +volts on pin 1 of the fuel gauge sensor and pin 4 of the coolant sensor

i have got one but i cant find it lol. i have a mate with one if the grounds dont sort it tomorrow

can you make heads or takes of this? page 21

http://vwts.ru/electro/wd_g4_99.pdf

i got told before they share some sort of feed but not sure what I'm looking at tbh, do they share an earth?

Edited 10 January, 201214 yr by m60_maniac

Fom that diagram,

The voltage stabiliser in the diagram supplys the regulated voltage normally 5volts to both the gauges and then though to the sensors, the earths/grounds are all commoned together and feed back to the speedo pod 32 pin blue plug pin 7 and the speedo pod main earths/grounds are on pins 9 & 24 of the same plug and they go to ground point 202 behind the dash

thats what i thought, they all share something. from the looks of it the coolant level sensor could also be affected, i dont have a screenwash sensor i dont think. so would that bea the earth behind the clocks? or the one ear the ecu?

hard to follow these things lol

edit: as the pdf dont work from there heres a pic...

Edited 10 January, 201214 yr by m60_maniac

If you follow the brown wires on this diagram it comes to a ground point 202 (behind left side of dash) as this is from a ruskie site I'm guessing it's for LHD? so the earth should be on the right side?

32-pin connector, blue

1 - Terminal 15, positive

2 - Right turn signal warning lamp

3 - Output signal 1 from electronic speedometer

4 - Trailer operation warning lamp

5 - Fuel gauge

6 - Airbag

7 - Terminal 31, sender earth

8 - Coolant temperature gauge

9 - Terminal 31, earth

10 - Oil pressure switch

11 - RPM signal

12 - Alternator warning lamp, terminal 61

13 - Glow period warning lamp (for diesel engine only)

14 - Rear fog light warning lamp

15 - Not assigned

16 - Rear lid open warning lamp (only certain countries)

17 - Main beam warning lamp, terminal 56a

18 - Left turn signal warning lamp

19 - Anti-lock brake system (ABS)

20 - Dash panel insert illumination, terminal 58b

21 - Driver's door open signal

22 - Cooling system low level indicator

23 - Terminal 30, positive

24 - Terminal 31, earth

25 - Self-diagnosis K-wire

26 - Right parking light

27 - Left parking light

28 - Input signal to electronic speedometer

29 - Brake system warning lamp

30 - S-contact

31 - Seat belt warning system

32 - Exhaust emissions warning lamp (only certain countries)

i have a feeling i know where that is, i had the scuttle off earlier and theres a box on the drivers side under the wiper mech i think goes to the clocks, I'm guessing theres something in there somwehre that conects inside to outside wiring.

so looks like I'm taking the clocks out tomorrow to try and get to that then? as its probrably the block that connects straight into the back of the clocks

thanks for the help so far mate, biggggg help :)

i have a feeling i know where that is, i had the scuttle off earlier and theres a box on the drivers side under the wiper mech i think goes to the clocks, I'm guessing theres something in there somwehre that conects inside to outside wiring.

so looks like I'm taking the clocks out tomorrow to try and get to that then? as its probrably the block that connects straight into the back of the clocks

thanks for the help so far mate, biggggg help :)

Before you go stripping the clocks out, I'd do those voltage and ground tests I menioned before

yea i will do, ill have a look for my multimeter later on

thoguh from the looks of it, if I'm looking for a blue conector it will be the back of the clocks one....

http://home.mindspring.com/~ops21/fisharness1.JPG

looks like a big enoguh block to be 32 pin so will need to see where that goes after

any tips of testing the volts? where i put each conector on the meter etc. i have one but used it liek twice lol

Edited 10 January, 201214 yr by m60_maniac

On the clock are two 32 pin connectors one Blue and the other Green and you might have a smaller 20 pin Red.

As to the testing with the meter, put the Black lead onto any bit of the chassis ideally something like a bolt head or for testing the coolant sensor the battery neg terminal and then select the meter to resistance or Ω then with the Red lead to pin 2 on the connectors and your looking for a reading as low as possible, ideally 1~2 Ohms Ω Then for the supply checks leave the Black lead where it is and select a 20v DC range on the meter, unless it's auto-ranging meter, then put the red lead to the relevant pins to check (pin 1 for the Fuel sensor and pin 4 for the coolant sensor)

ok thanks, I'm gonna pop to my mums mates now as he use to be an auto electrician, see if he can test it for me tomorrow. if not ill borrow his mutlimeter and have a pop at it :)

Dash panel insert, rear view

Note The dash panel insert must not be dismantled. In the event of defects, the dash panel insert is renewed as a unit.

1 - 32-pin connector

Green

Additional features

2 - 20-pin connector

Red

Highline version

3 - Clamp for securing wiring harness

4 - Warning buzzer

Oil pressure warning

Oil level warning (dash panel insert 05.99 ► on vehicles with long-life service)

Lights switched on warning

Brake system fault

Brake pad wear warning

Ignition key warning (only certain countries)

Seat belt warning (only certain countries)

Speed warning (only certain countries)

5 - Bulb with holder (warning lamp for open rear lid or warning lamp for trailer operation)

12 V/1.12 W

Note

The warning lamp for trailer operation and warning lamp for open rear lid are only fitted as a bulb version in dash panel inserts up to 07.98 and can be retrofitted if required.

From 08.98 onwards, the warning lamp for trailer operation and warning lamp for open rear lid are fitted as an LED in the dash panel insert.

6 - 32-pin connector

Blue

Basic functions

ok thanks, I'm gonna pop to my mums mates now as he use to be an auto electrician, see if he can test it for me tomorrow. if not ill borrow his mutlimeter and have a pop at it :)

If you get stuck I'm only in Milton Keynes

them pics are for bloody everything lol XD

if that warning buzzers changeable ill do that as that dont work but thats not a problem, could be the same thing wrong

so deos that mean i should only take out the clocks and unplug them, not try to take them apart?

edit: cheers mate, if i end up needing a hand ill send you a message :)

Edited 10 January, 201214 yr by m60_maniac

Not sure if the buzzer is easily changed, I think it's soldered onto the main circuit board inside the clocks

That warning about not dismantling the clocks is just the standard, don't do it as there's nothing inside you can fix!! but thats not always the case!!

cuz they want you to buy new ones lol. i think i have imob2 so if so ill get some later clocks with an mpg calc etc on and fit them in.

my mums mate thinks its a ground too, hes told me a few of the points they use for instrimunts so will have a look arround and just clean them all up, then if no luck ill do a test on them with a MM :)

The wiring might not be there for the fuel consumption fom the ECU to the clocks and you will also need the multi-function display, call-up/memory switch plus the wiring and new clocks will need to be re-coded to your key/ecu

yea i know but if I'm gonna replace the clocks ill have someone replace them with better ones and wire them in, I've seen posts telling you how to do it, bora clocks and r32/aniversary etc ones. u need to change the stalk aswell as wire them in properly. wouldnt attempt this myself as id need a vagcom.