A few people have asked for some specific information regarding the AAV+K03 turbo. Turbo conversion topics in general come up quite often and a lot of forum members helped with advice over the course of this project and have provided information in their build threads so I wanted to make what I've learnt from it all available. This is a quick guide for what I bought and where I sourced it from and an outline of the work necessary. It is aimed for all audiences so may come across as condescending to some who are already clued up and know more than me on this sort of thing, my apologies. It’s by no means a definitive list nor the best way to do it, but it should cover the main areas and components required. Clearly the items required may differ depending on your current setup. Be sure to bring the brakes, suspension and tyres up to spec before upping the power too. A PPP Stage 3 subframe made a huge difference to the car.

As you're likely to be whipping the engine out, consider what else you can do while it's out. I fitted new engine mounts, cambelt and starter motor for example, but you may want to rebuild the engine, clean the bay etc.

List of parts

(I went from GT management to G40, so some things like the inlet manifold and fuel pump I had already)

The basics

- GT inlet manifold

- Mk3 NZ/GT/G40 in-line fuel pump or a Bosch 0580464070 is a good, if slightly overrated replacement. Can be had new for £85.

- Mk3 NZ/GT/G40 fuel rail

- Mk3 NZ/GT/G40 injector jackets

- GT fuel pressure regulator (anyone know the difference between this and the G40 item?)

- G40 throttlebody

- G40/G60 CO pot

- G40 knock sensor

- G40 auxiliary air valve + hoses

- NZ/GT/G40 water pipe with auxiliary air valve mount (note here are two variants - bolt or push fit)

- Mk3 NZ/GT/G40 lambda sensor (longer wire than the AAV item, but you can make do with the AAV one)

- G40 ECU, standard map sensor

- G40 ECU loom

- G40 plastic boost hose with CO pot mount

- G40 map sensor vacuum hose (50cm long)

- G40 brake servo pipe with vacuum take-offs

- G40 clocks if you wanted, though I like the normal rev counter clocks as everything's marked in 10mph increments.

Injectors

~250cc/min Bosch 0280150905 for the G60. Ford Motorsport of similar cc/min had a different spray pattern and were unusable for this setup, so get the G60s if you can. Thanks to Andy and Pete Strange for diagnosing that one! Worth spending the £35-£50 to get them tested and cleaned too.

Spark plugs

NGK BP7EVX. £20/set from eBay.

Knock sensor location

On the G40 block, there is a tapped mount (M8) for the knock sensor on the back of the block, near the top in the middle. On early AAV blocks, this mount is cast but requires the surface flatting, drilling (6.8mm for M8 tap) then tapping.

On later AAV blocks such as mine, this casting is omitted. Instead I mounted the knock sensor lower down near the oil breather on another pre-existing , unused M8 tap. It's not ideal but to my knowledge hasn't caused any problems apart from being unable to clip the knock sensor loom into the bracket on the inlet manifold, it's zip-tied instead.

Gaskets

Gasket - VW part number at the time (2010)

Head to turbo manifold (exhaust gasket) - * 030 253 039 A

Turbo manifold to K03 turbo - 06A253039E

K03 turbo to downpipe - 8D0253115

K03 turbo to oil return - 058145757B

Sump - b 032 103 609 B

Inlet manifold to head - 030129717D

Throttle body to inlet manifold - 030 133 073 A

Camshaft choice

Put simply/crudely, with the K03 on this setup, the more aggressive the cam, the higher in the rev range the turbo will spool and the power band will be. Most use a Schrick 268/268 or similar. I wanted to have the power a little earlier in the range and so decided on a Piper 254/254, probably sacrificing a little top-end bhp in doing so, but giving the power where I wanted it. I was very lucky and got one with repairable damage cheaply with matching tappets. I left my GT cam fitted for a couple of days after the conversion and it was pretty crap really. The power just wasn't useful. The Piper worked out great though.

Intercooler

The bigger the better generally. Given the high compression I wanted the air to be as cool as possible and so I went as big as possible - an eBay special measuring 550x225x64mm. There are lots of suppliers on eBay for these, just go for the cheapest which for me as 1stcarparts. Because of it's size the inlet and outlet were moved from the side to the back of the end caps to help fitting. This was done by a local fabricator and made the intercooler quite expensive overall, about £120 all in.

Turbo manifold and downpipe

I bought this from PhilJ. £292 delivered, damn good price really. Supplied was a stainless manifold and downpipe. The manifold isn't offset like the Rothe item is for whatever reason. There's a lot of debate about using stainless to make a turbo manifold, Rothe for example make it a cast item, but luckily I've not had any problem. The manifold was well made, just one of the turbo bolt holes required slight filing to fit. The downpipe was good too, but IMHO a poor fit, it points too far to the nearside and so annoyingly the exhaust flexi is left to take up the slack. Of course it wants lambda bosses adding and would also benefit from a bracket to hang from under the engine to take the weight off, similar to the CAT bracket on all Mk3 Polos.

Phil’s pics:

Pic of the downpipe angle:

Turbo

A K03 from either a Passat or A4 1.8L (longitudinal mount). I can't be sure of the years these models ran for, but possibly 2000-2004??

Those from a Golf etc won't fit. I found one on eBay for £42 delivered and it's been great. Later found I'd unknowingly bought what is termed the K03s variant, bonus!

The compressor and exhaust housing will need rotating ('clocking') to fit your setup - easier said than done. The oil return in the centre section must point down and the feed be on the top for best fitment. The exhaust housing must match the manifold and downpipe angle and the compressor can only be fitted in one position in this application really without modification, make sure the actuator isn’t at an odd angle.

To clock, firstly find the six bolts on the exhaust side and soak them in Plus Gas!! They're a touch smaller than 10mm iirc. I made a spanner to fit them but had to hacksaw the head off two as no matter what I did they just rounded.

Once the size bolts are out be very careful to only rotate the housing, don't separate it! The compressor side is much easier, just 4 bolts and twist. I needed a breaker bar for the exhaust side.

There are a couple of options on the K03 for connecting up the oil and coolant hoses. I did:

Turbo Oil Feed

Hose Solutions made me a custom line for £30 delivered. (Ben, sales@hosesolutions.org.uk, email him and he’ll sort you out) Specs are:

Stainless braid hose (-4) with an M10x1mm banjo fitting at one end and an M12x1.5mm male right-angle fitting at the other (right angle to be roughly 15mm-ish from the end). Total length 600mm.

The hose didn’t come with a M10x1mm banjo bolt and copper washers, so you may want to specify Hose Solutions supply these too (price may go up a few quid). I used an IMA M10x1mm T-piece from Demon Tweeks/eBay to allow for the oil pressure sensor and the turbo oil feed into the back of the head. As my car has a single oil pressure sensor I only needed one T-piece, you may need two if you have two pressure sensors.

Turbo Oil Return

I chopped the original Passat return and brazed a return pipe into the sump of the same internal diameter, linking the two pipes with a length of 16mm ID oil hose forced over the pipes. I was a tight fit but ultimately worth the effort for a good seal.

Most turbo G40 owners have done it better than me with braided hose and proper fittings.

Turbo Coolant Feed

For the water feed I used 10mm coolant hose, and a 14mm banjo for 10mm hose. I T’d this into the top radiator hose using a plastic modular t-piece (32mm on two sides with a 10mm off-take) from Car Builder Solutions.

Turbo Coolant Return

The return pipe used the same banjo and hose as the feed, but needed a plastic 10mm t-piece to feed into the thin 8mm hose to the coolant header tank. This 8mm hose will stretch over the t-piece with a little work. You’ll need jubilee clips too. I bought 3m of 10mm hose for both coolant pipes and this was more than enough.

Turbo studs & nuts

I bought 6x 'M10 x 38mm metric exhaust stud & copper lock nut' from eBay, total cost about £8. The downpipe studs on my turbo were actually ok, but I replaced the turbo-manifold studs and used the copper locknuts on all.

Loom

I took my time to thoroughly inspect the G40 ECU loom, making repairs where necessary, checking all connections to the ECU connector with a multimeter and carefully wrapped in cloth loom tape from eBay. The early G40 loom needed some minor modifications to connect up to the late engine bay loom - the rev counter, oil pressure switch, diagnostics cable, cranking signal and a few others required modification.

Boost hoses and clamps

Well, this was bloody expensive! About £120. I used the G40 plastic boost hose with CO pot mount, but the rest was bought new. You could save a bomb by raiding a scrap yard though. To get an idea of what I'd need, I measured all connections with a micrometer and drew a diagram of all the connections required including the recirc valve. It worked well, only one hose was the wrong size. A combination of AP Motorsport & NCC Tuning came up cheapest. I grabbed a couple of metres of 3mm and a couple of metres of 4mm silicone vacuum tubing too.

Oil Cooler

New old stock Mocal copy 13-row oil cooler 1/2BSP fittings, £12 bargain on eBay

Thermostatic sandwich plate, plate bolt and oil line kit (rubber), £80 Demon Tweaks

The hoses came with one end coupling 90degrees and the other end straight on each hose. I mounted the oil cooler in the void behind the nearside foglight cut-out, copying the G40 turbo chaps. The right-angle connections I used at the cooler and the straight connections at the sandwich plate. The hoses were routed and zip-tied under the radiator support bar, wrapping the hoses in rubber where they might otherwise rub.

6psi boost switch to replace G40 full-throttle switch

Why? Well...best explained by the man himself

http://www.polog40.co.uk/forum/index.php/t...1.html#msg25661

http://www.pvl.co.uk/pressure_switches/pmn...ure_switch.html

0.1-1bar or 0.15-2bar range (they both have high over pressure). Normally open. Standard seals. A 1/4bsp fitting for the pressure line, available from eBay usually for motorbike applications is needed too.

The switch won't come calibrated to 6psi of course. I used a pump, bike tube and the Stack pressure gauge to do the calibration. Basically I connected up the pump, pressure gauge and switch to the bike inner tube, pumped up to precisely 6psi and adjusted the switch to close the contacts at that pressure (checked using the multimeter).

Throttle body modification

Doc J had the idea to strip the throttlebody and mount the 6spi boost switch inside.

http://www.polog40.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,2800.0.html

I copied :-)

Needs wiring in too, in place of the full throttle switch

The G40 throttlebody has the 2nd butterfly for the by-pass. This'll need removing and the link unclipping. I used a silicone hose and alloy plug to close up the by-pass, but a proper job is to weld it over.

Boost recirc or blow-off valves

You need a method of releasing boost pressure from the system when the throttle plate is closed - this prevents damage to the turbo as resulting boost spike that occurs without this pressure release puts a large force back onto the compressor wheel and will slow it's rotation rapidly. By keeping the compressor spinning as best as possible, turbo lag will also be reduced.

On this setup without an air flow meter or MAF etc you can release this pressure to atmosphere using a blow-off valve, giving the distinctive 'hiss' at each gear change etc. Alternatively a recirc valve will put the excess air back into the inlet system pre-turbo.

Both valve types are primarily vacuum operated - a feed from the inlet manifold is plumbed into the top of the valve and the resulting vacuum in the manifold upon throttle closure is used to pull up on a diaphragm or piston (against a spring) to open the valve and release the pressure. The placement of the valve is widely debated - some say it should be at the throttle body, the intercooler or immediately after the turbo compressor output.

Bosch plastic recirc valves are poor - save yourself the PITA further down the line and get a decent one to begin with.

I opted for a Forge 007p recirc (to keep it stealthy and quiet) and fitted it immediately after the compressor output. At the time the cheapest source was Awesome GTI via their eBay shop - £76.50.

I tried some stronger springs but in the end settled for the default green item which worked the best.

Turbo Actuator

Glad I didn't skimp on this!! Though I took some persuading. It was tempting to bodge a bleed valve or additional spring onto the turbo wastegate actuator, but for smooth power delivery with early spool and grunt then IMHO there is NO substitute. Forge make a couple of variants - one of diaphragm design and the other uses a piston. I went for piston (Forge part number FMACVAG02), £117 at the time and it's been great.

The spring fitted affects the wastegate opening and max boost pressure. I've settled on the yellow one (FMAS049_No10) if memory serves which with some tightening (and therefore preload) of the actuator rod gets a nice 15psi with a great delivery. I've found the blue spring (FMAS049_No12) is also a good match and might well fit it again soon. The springs are about £10 each from Forge. Thanks to Andy Strange for advice on this.

Exhaust system

To keep costs down and keep it quiet and stealthy I opted for a standard G40 system. Well, actually the mid box is an aftermarket GT unit as G40 boxes were hard to find, I got it from Buypartsby approx £67 iirc. The back box is an eBay special from Germany for about £35 delivered. I had an adapter section to link the downpipe and midbox made by one of the many companies on eBay offering the service. This was about £22 in stainless. Got some decent clamps, rubbers, paste and job's a good 'un. As above, the lambda bosses were welded to the downpipe. I used a little heat wrap where the downpipe passes the offside inner CV joint to protect the CV boot as the heatshield had to be removed as it was rattling on the downpipe.

Boost gauge

Stack -30Hg to 2 bar. Quite bright at night for my liking so I fitted a 1Kohm potentiometer to the lamp +12v and adjusted it to suit.

Pressure Gauge

TIM electric - accurate enough and arguably easier to fit than an analogue one.

Oil Temperature Gauge

TIM electric - easier to get fittings for the sump plug than analogue gauges.

Wideband lambda

AEM UEGO. Fairly priced and accurate. Easy to fit and doesn't need recalibration.

Gauge mounts

I used two of the two-gauge version of this:

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/g...ounting-bracket

Cheap, easy. Good enough for me.

Vacuum hose setup

So, quite a few items need a inlet manifold pressure reference, I connected them as follows:

Recirc valve - OEM hose at the bottom of the inlet manifold from the auxiliary air valve

ECU map sensor - bottom take-off on the brake servo hose

Boost switch - take-off on the front of the throttle body

Fuel pressure regulator - top take-off on the brake servo hose (via T-piece)

Boost gauge - top take-off on the brake servo hose (via T-piece)

Oil catch tank

Standard procedure here, I still need to perfect this, but am currently using a ribbed silicone hose direct from the breather pod to a plastic bottle in the front where the charcoal canister used to be. The ribbed hose will never kink and keeps the breathing easy, if a little ugly.

Clutch

LUK 200mm standard for early AFH engines and G40s - Buypartsby £82. Since the AAV clutch is 190mm you need to be careful that your flywheel doesn't have too great a worn groove otherwise the 200mm clutch will not seat properly and the flywheel will need a skim. It was tempting to go for a lightened flywheel but I decided it wasn't necessary for my use. Thanks to Pete Merfin for the clutch and flywheel advice.

Radiator cowling modification

I found that water temps were just a touch high , about 95-100 degrees. Probably not helped by the huge intercooler and Hella grille. It had the original radiator and has since had a new Nissens replacement. I took the fan and cowling off completely and noticed a drop in water temp at motorway speeds so set about hacking the standard cowling to help.

Steve Morris has informed me that the GT and G40 have a different thermostat that opens at a lower temp that the AAV unit, so that's next to try. Overheating has never been a problem though, it's just a tad warmer than I'd like. To be honest I should just leave it alone because in reality it's fine!

Induction kit or airbox?

Started with a JabbaSport induction kit with cold air shield. Bit too much induction noise and hiss from the recirc valve for my liking and so went to a G40 airbox and paper filter. Can barely hear the recirc now.

Bumper mesh

To protect the intercooler black paint job (stealth!) and oil cooler I lined the foglight cut-outs and lower cut-out in the front bumper with aluminium mesh painted black.

Gearbox

I kept the original CEG. Actually the ratios work very well.

Map

Unless you can map the car yourself and have a willing driver, a custom remap is the only way to go really. This setup is quite unusual and so off the shelf chips weren't suitable.

I'll quote my review of PPPs mapping that is on PoloG40:

Polo Performance Parts did me a custom remap in January, and frankly I couldn’t be happier with the result.

The aim was to map my AAV turbo with three main goals in mind –

1. Achieve decent power

2. Make it a smooth drive – it’s a 20k/yr daily

3. Preserve the engine – after all it’s only an AAV and some moron bolted a turbo to it

Andy talked me through the process – first he’d map the idle then move on to part throttle and full throttle mapping. Fast apparent was an issue with the idle. Pete and Andy expertly diagnosed this as incorrect injectors – they were too efficient for the high compression engine and lead to overfueling. They were quickly changed for some standard G60’s and the mapping continued. The idle was sorted and then part throttle taken care of. During the mapping process the narrowband lambda is disconnected to prevent the ECU from fighting the ongoing map adjustments. Particularly impressive, was Andy’s ability to tune the map precisely the correct amount – on part throttle around town driving the wideband showed near stoichiometric and the car is very smooth.

The next bit was fun. On Andy’s advice we decided to first map full throttle at 10psi, later moving on to 15psi. This would reduce the stress on the engine during mapping whilst still allowing the map to be tailored to the full capability of the standard map sensor. As luck would have it we stumbled across a section of 3-lane, dual carriageway ‘private road’ perfect for the task. As more ignition advance was dialled in I was soon simultaneously crapping my pants and giggling like a schoolgirl. After a few runs the map was sorted.

Before leaving we did a few final checks to be sure all was well and I was left with the luxury of a drive home with a freshly mapped, infinitely improved car!

The results speak for themselves. On my commute I still get good mpg, in fact pretty much exactly the same as with the old GT management (at 10psi) – a remarkable 41mpg. At the Club Polo rolling road day it did this at 15psi:

I think it’s fair to say that the general consensus on the day was that the flywheel figures on a variety of cars were a little optimistic. Even if you said 160-165bhp I’m chuffed to bits. Not bad for an engine that made 55bhp from the factory!

Remember this engine configuration is quite dissimilar to the standard G40 – and as such the map needed to be somewhat different. This isn’t really just tweaking the original map anymore, but rather building up a fresh new one from scratch. I think this speaks volumes for PPP’s ability and skill. Top job!

Procedure

It's a well known fact that for some people (me included) the more gauges you have, the more they see 'problems' with the running of the car. My tip here would be to fit the gauges first, before doing the conversion, so you can see the readings before and after, which can help put your mind at ease later.

The following link below goes to my build thread which will give a rough idea, the photos are mostly the same.

http://www.polog40.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,5819.0.html

What would I do differently next time?

Aftermarket management

Since doing this conversion I've fitted the hardware necessary to remap the ECU myself. Call it a character flaw, but I must be able to tinker, for no other reason than to tinker, with all aspects of the car and the illusive ECU was the next target for this tinkering. This doesn't mean that I'm capable of mapping it myself though, but I am learning the basics. With this in mind aftermarket management would have been relatively cost-effective and enabled much clearer mapping. My main issue with the G40 management is that unless you have the full program information, fully reverse engineer or are have ability & time to translate the assembly code (I have none of these 3 options!), then much of the fine running of the car - the adjustment parameters, maps and their effects are not fully known. As you can imagine, the people that have done the full decoding work keep it a closely guarded secret. For my tinkering I would prefer to know what I can change and what affect it will have on the running of the car, and for me this would steer towards aftermarket management.

There would be plenty of disadvantages too though, making my own loom, being a little bit further into unknown, more time required mapping the car to get all the adjustment criteria calibrated etc.

Organic clutch

The conversion made more power than I was expecting and so could really use an organic-lined clutch. I'm sure it won't be too long before it needs changing.

Crankcase breather

I'd like to figure out a way to put the crankcase breather into the inlet and dispense with the catch tank.

Slimline fan

Better cooling when moving and more space in the ‘bay.

Braided oil cooler hoses

I stupidly saved a few pounds by going for rubber hoses. I wish I’d gone for the braided type, much harder wearing.

12-month review - what’s broken so far?

The Stack boost pressure gauge rubber vacuum t-piece rapidly disintegrated. Others have had the same issue. Crap part solved with some silicone vacuum hose, about 50mm of 3mm diameter and 25mm of 4mm.

That’s it!

Cost?

In the end including the custom remap, gauges, refurbished starter, new clutch, new exhaust, VW engine mounts, oil cooler and wideband lambda I reckon this conversion has cost me around £2,250 all-in

That's a great read, my hat goes off to you!

I have one question tho, would the same principles be applied to other non-turbo engines such as and ABD, AEE, NZ ect?

Legend! Thanks chief, will be a great help in the future. Quick question though, whats the 6psi switch for if your actuator allows you up to 15psi?

replaces the full throttle switch, which normally comes on when the boost return valve fully closes on a G40. if you didnt have one, youd get the full fuel map as soon as your put the boot down, and bog down until your turbos spooled

Thanks chaps :-)

I have one question tho, would the same principles be applied to other non-turbo engines such as and ABD, AEE, NZ ect?

Yeah, NZ is essentially the same engine, ABD might need a slight tweak to the map, AEE is a bit trickier but if you chose to turbo one then the above parts list is a good start - you'll need to modify an inlet to suit and possible the downpipe too.

Quick question though, whats the 6psi switch for if your actuator allows you up to 15psi?

replaces the full throttle switch, which normally comes on when the boost return valve fully closes on a G40. if you didnt have one, youd get the full fuel map as soon as your put the boot down, and bog down until your turbos spooled

Yup, Saf's right. Andy explains it in the link above. It's buried in the mass of text so here it is again:

http://www.polog40.co.uk/forum/index.php/t...1.html#msg25661

Edited 27 January, 201214 yr by cheys03

Fantastic guide Chris!

Definetly my next move!

I have a few engine codes for which turbos you can use on the conversion:

AEB 95 - 98 A4, A6 and passat

ANB 99 - 2001 A6 and A4

APU 98 - 00 A4, A6 and passat

AWT 00 - 2002 A4, A6 and passat

ARK 98 - 2001 A4

AVJ 00 - 2002 A4

AJL 97 - 00 A4 and A6

BFB 04 - 07 A4 (KO3s)

BEX 02 - 03 A4(KO3s)

I'm not shure if the KO3s if the same fitment?

Some of these codes are USspec (but I'm to lazy to sort out) but thought it just shows plenty of turbos around and for people wanting to use a later year turbo rather than an older one.

please say if you any more info this,

hope it helps anyways

Cheals done his home work

Excellent! Good work!

You need to sell this shit, dude.

I won't build it, if i did i'd use a 6n 1.4 block with AFH con rods. Not only bigger capacity, meaning less stress on the turbo and/or more power, but also notably stronger than the coke cans and sticks you get in an AAV. Plus 6n/2 1.4 8v pistons.

I'd want an AEE head with that too, best skimmable 8v head. Then you've got a compression ratio to start with, maybe using a compound head gasket if you want more boost, and you've got a far better common-as-muck short block 8v to start with.

Rest of the guide on that, getting around the different inlet bolt pattern, and you're sorted for some serious traction/gearbox problems.

AAV rods are dimensionally the same as PY (G40) items. This is an 86c series motor, not a choc 6N jobbie!

I've mapped this and an AEE turbo both on a bar of boost from a K03, neither have broken yet, but my money is on the AAV long term!

After holding a afh rod in my hand I've not convinced by their strength tbh, I know it takes more than just a look to judge the strength of something like that but not only was it fairly thin and gangly it also had a oil gallery straight up the center of it. No doubt they can take boost as people have done it, but if I was going to boost an afh i would be swapping them for standard rebushed 20vt rods just for poor piece of mind

fill the afh rods with weld

Or just use a £50 AAV lump and don't worry?

To be fair, the AAV's 9.5:1 CR means it's nice to drive off boost and feels less laggy than a turbo'd G40 does.

*next engine ideas*

Or just use a £50 AAV lump and don't worry?

To be fair, the AAV's 9.5:1 CR means it's nice to drive off boost and feels less laggy than a turbo'd G40 does.

I must admit, it's nice to know that if the engine does go pop, it's a quick engine swap and the car is back on the road. Though I have a set of G40 pistons in the harage, half the appeal for me is the standard engine. I woudln't say no to a boosted 1.6L eventually though :)

Andy, I think you've mentioned on here you've also mapped a turbo NZ with GT cam - any idea how that's fairing or estimated power?

As far as I know the NZ is still going strong. It had machined down pistons to circa 8:1 CR, and we mapped it on 1.2 bar boost with a 250kPa MAP sensor.

It was quick, but ran a GT gearbox so was stifled top end. The GT cam didn't hold it back as much as I expected (but then it had custom headwork - the lad's brother was an engine builder and did the lot!), but I think a 'turbo' spec cam would've netted more power. Didn't want to push the boost levels much further given the machined pistons - but customer and engine builder were happy that it'd cope with 1.2 bar.

The AEE turbo (decomp plate to 8:1ish CR too) didn't feel any quicker than yours, but then we mapped it at about 0.8 bar given the stock rods and the other lad on here cracking AEE pistons with boost. That customer was going to kick its head in, see what broke, then consider rods and pistons before coming back for more boost. So far that's done 1000 miles and hasn't broken.

I think you're still in the lead with most miles on a boosted n/a Polo motor!

build me a turbo/g engine out of my solid lifter lump andy. thannnkkksssss

reckon it would all be the same with the mechanical head?

Edited 1 May, 201214 yr by erixtar1992

anyone know much about going down the turbo carb route? Using an r5 carb and mk2 vac advanced dizzy to get rid of the ecu and obviously a turbo carb fuel pressure regulator,

any problems or reliability?

could the above plans be used on a gt 3f block, i know it would need a decom plate or decom pistons to lower the compression but is there anything else

could the above plans be used on a gt 3f block, i know it would need a decom plate or decom pistons to lower the compression but is there anything else

Yeah I don't see why not. Not certain about the knock sensor mount, but imagine it would fit somewhere.

Is this simular to what you've used chris?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-PASSAT-1-8-20...=item1e71258414

Looks good! It's not the genuine article but some say the copies are ok, some say they ruined their engine etc and I've only had a used genuine so can't comment. It's the right version though by the looks of it.

How do you know its not a genuine item then?

Numerous indicators but main one is there's no KKK logo in the embossed triangle on the inlet