I am fitting a 3000k hid kit to my mk2 bready, all i want to know is there any way to keep my headlights on with my full beam, the bulbs I'm going for are h4 low only, as i have the inner full beam lights I'm looking to keep the headlights on when i switch the full beam on so the inner ones come on but the headlights stay on aswell...?

And also can i stop the headlights coming on dim with the sidlights and ignition on ?

Edited 31 January, 201214 yr by DanIOW

Yes, its a simple relay from the main beam feed. Wire the relay so that the switch terminal comes from your main beam feed and have the output to the dipped beam feed. Look up a standard 4 pin relay diagram to see what I mean

The second part I don't understand. With ign and sidelights you should have sidelights only, the next position on the switch is headlights which will switch between dipped and full beam

Yes, its a simple relay from the main beam feed. Wire the relay so that the switch terminal comes from your main beam feed and have the output to the dipped beam feed. Look up a standard 4 pin relay diagram to see what I mean

The second part I don't understand. With ign and sidelights you should have sidelights only, the next position on the switch is headlights which will switch between dipped and full beam

ok ill have a look at the relay

the second part is, if i have the igniton off then just the 2 small sidelight bulbs are lit up, if i turn the ignition on there is power to the headlight bulbs but only at 6v if i have the hid kit on there it would make the headlights flicker and flash if i have the sidlights on with the igniton, i had the same problem with a citroen ax i used to own and that was just a case of unplugging a resistor pack behind the grill ?

Modern cars wouldn't suffer this because they default to dipped once switches off. Not sure I'd the polo is the same and can't help with the answer to that I'm afraid

unplug the dim dip resistor , its up by the passenger bonnet hinge and has yellow wires

you realise it wont pass the mot like it with the hid kit?

To be honest my view is that some good h4s are as good as anything. Once you have done the wiring mod and got some +50 or +60 bulbs you might not feel that you need better lights.

cheers mate I've designed a relay system to uprate the headlight loom and keep the main beam on with the full beam but not the other way round, why wont it pass an mot all the lights will work like they should like a car with h7/h1 bulbs, all that could be a failure is because they are hids but ill just whack some halogens in for the mot

(plus i work at the mot garage )

tbh mate the only reason I'm going hid is because i have some balasts already and i want the euro style yellow bulbs, i know you can get yellow halogens but from my experience the yellow hids are much better than yellow halogens

Word of warning.

Dont fit single position H4's as you will dazzle the fuck out of everyone (The whole point of them is to fit in H4 spotlamps), the H4 Bi-Xenon have a shield to give the proper deflection for Hi/Lo.

As for the difference with 3000k which i have been running for near on 2 years, i had 3000k effect halogens and while the light out put on the ground is better with HID's the halogens could still pick out a cop cars reflective markings at a huge distance.

so these then, i assume they work ok with standard balasts

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-x-35W-Bi-Xenon...=item20b6b958ea

It wouldn't fail an mot however as said the single beam cheaper units have a poor shield design and will scatter the light every wher.

To have a full beam (dipped and main together) you have to mod the wiring on the indicator switch. From memory you have to cut the white wire and bridge the car side of it to the yellow.

I will be ordering some bi-xenon bulbs when i get payed next, as for the wiring i am going to make a uprated headlight loom to run the hid balasts as i dont think the standard loom is going to be man enough, i was going to incorporate a relay to activate the main beam again with the full beam

See the atachment of the loom i have designed

Edited 2 February, 201214 yr by DanIOW

As said above get some good quality h4 bulbs and ungraded the wiring AND earth wires, and also clean the inside and Polish the outsides.

I strongly doubt you would need HID, and there is zero glare issues compared to HIDS.

Also having them aligned properly on a beam setter makes a massive difference. I would suggest doing all these and then deciding if you need more light.

You don't need the third relay in the diagram DanIOW, you can bridge the output from the high beam output to the switch side of the lie beam relay. Because of the working I'd a relay there will be B2B o issues in doing it this way and you save yourself some wire and £4 for the relay

but wouldnt this make the full beam come on with the main beam

Nope due to the way a relay works

Bastard phone makes typing so difficult in posts!

Hight beam output with a link to the low beam input and you are away

The bixenon kits should already have a relayed harness included with them. Meaning you wouldn't have to make your own up, and also most bixenon kits have an ic built in which leaves them on for a second longer after "flashing" this means that the bulbs would last longer.

What I would do is make a harness that allowed only the driving lights to come on when you flash if the headlights aren't on ( like a lot of newer cars with bixenon AND halogen setups) resulting in even longer bulb life.

In my opinion xenons are a waste of time. I'm sick to death of being dazzled by people with shitty aftermarket ones. Just get an upgraded headlight loom and some brighter h4 bulbs. Theres a loom available from ebay that plugs straight in. Literaly takes 5 minutes to plug in and some time to run the cables so they look tidy. No fuss, and no MOT failure.