I have a set of these and planning to fit them to the polo (mk2). However, they seem to need wheel nuts as opposed to bolts. Does that mean I need to convert my hubs to studs or are there bolts available?

having run my revos for about 4 months now with extended bolts and spacers id say get a stud conversion with the right nuts, the bolts i am using arent right and the wheels do wobble at between 45 and 55mph, but I've not died and they dont come loose or anything, up to you really

look good though and will suit a mk2 more

Edited 3 February, 201214 yr by JordonVW

Thanks for that. What bolts are you using and what's your pcd? Just worried I won't be able to get the nuts in the same thread as the studs (and thus hub thread). I'll have to investigate some more

4x100 i think and I'm using standard tapered but extended wheel bolts from ebay, you can get a stud conversion that will work just the same as bolts but work for revos better, I've just never bothered

I can't see why you would need to convert to studs to run those wheels?

Jord your wheels sound like they are out of balance

Thats not what the balancing machine said when they were done with new tyres on, i watched the guy do them all and i know the garage, when i shuffled the wheels around it seemed like one of them was worse than the rest and they went o.k for a month or so, theyve got wobbly again now though, got some banded steels now anyway, just waiting on refurbing them, new tyres and arch rolling so everything

i used to run these. you need revolution style sleeve nuts, you can get them on ebay with the studs aswell.

si get in contact with this guy, he'll be able to sort you out with the bits you need

. as liam has said, you need specific revolution sleeve nuts to run them safely. there are certain wheels made by revolution that dont require snazzy bolts, but they were usually the rfx wheel for cars like alfas and gm dealer sport rally spec'd cars

http://www.mistertee.co.uk/

I could imagine test driving a car, & the owner saying "oh yeah the wheels wobble at 45-55 as the bolts ain't right"

Well I'm going home.

Honestly stuff like this loses all my faith in mankind

I could imagine test driving a car, & the owner saying "oh yeah the wheels wobble at 45-55 as the bolts ain't right"

Well I'm going home.

Honestly stuff like this loses all my faith in mankind

its literally only just come back after having two months of wobble free driving, i wouldnt have driven it if it was that bad for the entire time I've had them on! i think it might be down to them having no lip to centralize on as I've had to space the fronts to clear the brakes and if i spaced them more they would poke too much

sounds like an accident waiting to happen. if not for you own safety, but for others you might want to think about fitting some wheels which fit properly. Also, if you were to have an accident and hurt someone, the popo could turn around and charge you with having a defective car. There was a case not so long ago where some numbnuts in a land rover killed most of his familly after crashing it. Turned out he had badly modified it. for example it had different type brake calipers fitted on the same axle which were partly to blame for the crash. That dude is in jail now............

they do fit, the bolts have moved a single mm in the 4 months I've owned them, they are coming off this month anyway

I've done about 3k miles with them on too

Edited 4 February, 201214 yr by JordonVW

i think you missing the point. The guy with the landy probably did a few thousand miles before killing his family.

If the bolts don't seat correct, which they clearly won't, then they don't fit. Spacers mean there are no spigots to centre the wheel. If they have moved 1mm, that would suggest that shear load is going through the wheel bolts. wheel bolts are designed to take tensile loads, not shear. Theres a high risk you could shear a bolt or worse still, loose a wheel.

You gave out correct advise to Si, so why not take your own advise or just take the wheels off! I would sooner have my car on scabby looking steel wheels, than ride around on a set of wheels with so much potential for fail.

dont have any spare wheels knocking around, they WILL be off in a couple of weeks anyway

Surely if the wheels had moved 1mm or whatever the wobble would be all the time and not just at 45-60? That's what was making me think the wheel was out of balance as its normally around 60 that you start to feel it, a badly fitted wheel would be a constant wobble like if you have a buckle or a bulge in you tyre

Things like this put me off ever buying an already modified car

Thanks John. Its as i thought, will be needing studs to allow use of the sleeved nuts. Thing is, the pcd isn't 4x100 more like 4x4" I think or possibly 4x98mm. This will sury make it difficult as I need a small bit of 'wobble' on the bolts

you'll certainly need spigot rings to centre them and being sleeved bolts, they will probably have a bit of play in them anyway. you could drill them out to gain extra play and so long as they are done up tight, should be fine, as the bolts will be purely there to secure the wheel to the hub and won't be used to centre the wheel

simon why cant you use wobble bolts thats what you use to put 4x4 or 4x98mm wheels onto 4x100 hubs they allow upto 2mm of difference in the bolts pattern and mean you wont have to get a stud conversion just make sure you use spigot rings to centre the wheel correctly

reason being that revo wheels have different wheel seats. they are flat rather than being tapered or radius seat

oh right didnt know that and if it was me that had the problem i would make some sort of eccentric washer at work and make sure the wheel is centralized using spigot rings and making sure these are taking the stress of the wheel and the bolts are just holding the wheel to the hub but then thats me i like making stuff lol

Sounds good John, ta. Pete, i dont have the machinery to make washers etc up. Not really too sure how I'd do it either. I Like the idea of a stud conversion too

reason being that revo wheels have different wheel seats. they are flat rather than being tapered or radius seat

Same as Peugeot/Citroen bolts, then..

Really mikey? Thats interesting. Any idea what diameter and thread pitch they are? I'm guessing the same as VW

Of couse i could open them up John. I like the idea of studs and sleeved nuts as the nuts actually look pretty smart. May try mikeys idea though, as studs obviously have their problems. My sister has a shitroen, she may just lose a bolt for a while

The thing is the hole for the actually bolt are MUCH bigger than the shaft of a normal bolt, this space is usually filled by the sleeve, so if you use saxo bolts or something similar they will be lost in the hole. whether this makes a difference I don't know.