so now the boot and aerial are fitted now time to fit the headlining...

what a load of fun that was ha

so obviously i couldn't fit the old skanky one

it was all flakey at the back so i went to a car upholster and got one made well stitched together so that the rods could be fitted, they supplied the vinyl. Its not the same but its all black with a patten that looks like the inside of a areo bar lol looks quite nice tbo, they also covered the crappy inner b-pillar trims that crack in leather which looks sweet! and then fitted the fabric the the sunroof panel.

have'nt got any pic before i fitted it.

But the vinyl they stitched came as just a rectangular bit of fabric so i had to cut it to shape :/. So i put the old one on top and cut it to 1cm of the old one including the sunroof hole.

They suppled me the proper glue to stick it up with so i was all good it was basically just evo-stick contact adhesive.

so stuck the sound deadening back up and put the drain tubes in

then starting at the sunroof first started to fit the lining, then did the front screen working to the back finishing with the a,b and c pillar parts it was a very long job to do because i had to cut it as i was sticking it to make sure i didn't cut it too short also making sure it was tensioned right with no creases of pulled marks,i was very much a perfectionist when it came to this but i really happy with how it turn out no marks or creases at all! There was a lot of taking off and re-sticking to get it looking right!

also fitted the rear view mirror, sun visors, light and grab handles to make sure it looked right.

you cant really see the b-pillar trims but its is a good thing to do if you want them looking new again

fishing off putting the aperture seals on, got a new rear boot seal that wasn't cheap ha

Edited 17 September, 201411 yr by RyanC

few updates,

next i then refitted the sunroof, took me a little while to remember how it all went together after completely striping it down a few years ago lol

used proper sunroof grease BMW stuff really good stiff too

all back together with the new lining panel fitted, after very carefully feeding it into the roof without scratching the paint, all fitted sweet

new gen outer seal fitting which was like £60

more updates to come

nicely done! I've made 2 roof linings now, a very satisfying job!

The loop for the rods should be cut at a angle so the rear window rubber look perfect aswell! incase u didnt do so. I'm sure you did tho :)

keep it up!

cheers man! yeah i did, windows are all in now will update properly in the next week or so :)

I'm never going to be very good at updating this haha. There are a few things I've missed as I get stuck into a job and forget to take pictures but will try and sort some and update to where I am now.

so fitted the windows next

Rear window bonded back on

And then the side windows and windscreen

Rear badges back on

Edited 29 May, 201511 yr by RyanC

Got tones of brackets and parts powder coated:

Rear beam and mounts

Subframe

Arb mount

Wiper arms and linkage

Gear linkage parts

Engine mounts

You get the idea pretty much everything I could think of has been blasted and powder coated

Will put pics up as I fit them

Also got some parts re-zinc plated like:

engine hooks

Steering rack clamps

Bonnet catch

Door striker pins

Ecu mount

Etc etc haha

New rear boot seal and re-zinced stricker pin

Door stricker pins! Love all the zinced bits!

Edited 29 May, 201511 yr by RyanC

As a lot of you know, the pedal boxes are common to crack so I beefed mine up a bit with gussets, plates and stitch welds to try prevent it from happening

Then got it powder coated

At the bottom of the first pic I've made two plates to sandwich between the mounting bolts and the pedal box to stop it from twisting.

Fitted it without and with them fitted and it makes a hell of a difference don't move one bit with them fitted but without it try's to twist when applying the clutch.

Steering column fitted and pedal box back in with powder coated pedals and new pedal rubbers and pivots cleaned and regressed

Edited 29 May, 201511 yr by RyanC

Cleaned up the gearbox ready to be stripped to fit the LSD and new bearings!

Before

After

Then cleaned my brake fluid reservoir, striped the paint off the brake servo and etch primed it then put 4 coats of hammerite satin black on it.

Cleaned and regressed the steering rack then primed and painted with expensive Ali high temp paint.

New steering gators fitted, then refitted the rack with my re-zinced brackets, servo fitted with new 22mm master cylinder

Edited 29 May, 201511 yr by RyanC

Absolutly stunning. A hell of a lot of effort you've gone to and by the looks of things it will be worth it.

Thanks dude! Yeah can't wait to get it finished!!

Polos dont get much nicer than Tornado Red G40s.

G40 KCK is a nice example.

Then it was time to do the brake lines that I wasn't looking forward to doing but actually was quite good fun....

Ordered loads of copper pipe and zinc plated unions, also bought heat shrink so I could put it on the pipes were it could rub or vibrate.

So got started..

I have decided to run all 4 outlets from the master cylinder instead of blanking the front one like a few people do, as standard g40 master cylinders only has 3 outlets with a t-peace to the rear line.

Had to make sure I plumbed in the lines right so they would work angled if on half of the master cylinder failed.

Rear lines in as well. New load compensating valve fitted with powder coated bracket.

Edited 29 May, 201511 yr by RyanC

The joys of fitting brake pipes in an empty engine bay! Hah ha.

Me and my OCD then kicked in as I wasn't happy with them, as copper discolours quickly and they started the go really dull and after time will go green, which for most people they wouldn't care but after all the effort I put in I wanted it to be right!

So I pulled them all out again haha

So if anyone is after some new copper lines that will fit straight in feel free to PM me!

So did some research and ordered some copper/nickle plated lines (Kunifer) that stay nice and shiny and won't lose colour and obviously will no corrode being copper. Also bought some brass unions instead of metal zinc plated ones as after time zinc ones will rust!

So off I went angin! Was much happier with the outcome this time!!

Very nice, I am hoping to get hold of a Tornado red G shell in the near future, this is excellent motivation to do it properly

Here is a better photo of the new headlining that I fitted the more I look at it the more better it gets! So happy the way it turned out, not sagging, looks very OEM.

Next thing I wanted to do was get the engine and box rebuilt and put it in so I could then just start working round that really.

So rebored block back on the stand! Took the core plugs out to replace with new ones and removed all rust and crap as much as I possibly could, took a while but I got there with various wire wheels in a drill.

Block after.

I then got the gunk and pressure washer out and covered the thing in gunk and let it soak all down the oil and coolant channels etc.

Spent a long time cleaning it all out blasting the pressure washer down all the channels to make sure all the crap was removed.

I'm sure they were quite clean anyway but I wanted to make sure.

Didn't want all the bores rusting up so run the compressor up and got the air gun on it and dried it all out.

Fitted the new core plugs used a small amount of sealant around the edge and tapped them in the a relevant socket.

Then etched the block surface with POR15 metal ready, really works well! Masked it up and put it in the spare room to paint it as it needed to dry at a warmer temp over night. I got black POR15 engine enamel, stupidly expensive but had best reviews and i've use POR15 on the bay and was very happy with it! Still have a hole tin left as it covers very well!

Done two coats second after 24 hours brush marks settled well can't see them at all!

Put the block aside and started on the gearbox. So stripped it down!

Failed a bit at getting photos of the work I did on the box but most of it was done before work so was under a bit of pressure to get what I wanted done before work started.

Used all sorts of pullers etc to get all the old bearings off the shafts and races out the casing as some need blind pullers!

But I got there in the end was a bit of a nightmare setting the pre-load as I had to do all the shafts and diff. Had to put new races in without fitted washers and measure with DTI then remove them without damaging anything to fit the new washers. I now have a wide selection of spare washers ha.

Got the crown wheel off the old diff and pressed out the press fit studs. Removed one bearing to get the speedo gear off.

Dug out the LSD and pressed in the studs

Then fitted the crown wheel, plates and torqued up the nuts with a dab of thread lock. Speedo gear on and new bearings fitted

All ready to fit back in!

So all new bearings fitted, pre-load set and washers fitted, inspected all the gears etc and is all spot on! No chipped gears and all one use bolts ordered from vag ready to rebuild.

Go on and painted all external components degreased and wire wheeled all the crap of the casing like I did with the block.

Painted the casing first before rebuilding it. The split it again and starting building it back up.

Where a few fiddly bits but nothing to hard. Bearings coated in oil and top casing back on. Used the proper sealant vag stuff, all casing bolts painted and torqued up.

flipped it over and started putting 5th gear back on.

All new radial seals and 5th gear case seal

Powder coated 5th gear cover and drive flanges back on.

Done!

Filled it up with oil, checked I could get all the gears, fitted powder coated mount and put it to one side!

Engine rebuild time!!

New +0.25 main bearings fitted to suit reground crank.

Thrust washers fitted and engine assembly grease over bearings and journals

Knife edged crack fully balanced and ready to fit. A lot lighter now

New bearing cap bolts all torqued up

Fitted the rods to the pistons and fitted rings and clocked them to the right position, checked the gaps before I fitted them.

Also fitted an additional dowel for the crack pulley

Pistons fitted, new +0.25 big end bearings. ARP rod threads greased and torqued. Then checked crack end float etc

Awesome work fella!

What an update. This is a meticulous build. Kudos.

Cheers guys! Stuck in hospital at the moment grr, long story but will try and update to where I am now by the end of the week. Work has stopped on the car due to me being signed off work and not aloud lot lift anything until august :( So am on the computer ordering car parts ha :)

Looks amazing, keep up the work

This is going to be such a clean looking G40 once it is finished. Keep up the good work.