This is awesome.. the car is looking great and this is a great build thread!! :)

I decided to put a baffle sort of tray in the sump just to stop the oil all falling to the left round right hand corners, the oil cant really move that far to the right as the oil pump sits there plus the strainer is sat more on the right hand side anyway. So I welded in a flat baffle in so when I corner hard to the right the oil below the tray line will not move to far to the left starving the strainer. I know that its probably going to be okay without one but it took no more than an hour to make and weld in so why not...

Also welded some new tabs to hold the alternator loom on as they were very brittle. Then got it shot blasted and powder coated :) bought the sump already modified with a turbo drain pipe welded on looks really good and nice and high up too!

Engine mounts powder coated, then I fitted the poly mounts to them. They are a lot harder to press in than standard rubber mounts!

Then one evening I was bored, so I got the head and valves and lapped all the valves in. Only used fine paste as new larger seats have been fitted with brand new jabba sport 31mm valves. Inlet seats cut and re-used valves just got them in a drill (stems protected with tape) with very fine scotch brite and wd40 really works well they looked new!

Didn't take long to get the nice neat dull ring on the valve and seat

All lapped in ready to fit springs, new guides fitted when the head was ported and flowed.

Double G40 valve springs fitted, bit of assembly lube on the stems

Exhaust ports ported and made round profile to match the round port profile on the rothe manifold.

Next thing is to finish off the bottom end. Had to mod the windage tray to get the oil pump to fit as the pump it self and the bracket both fouled the tray.

New pump and chain fitted all tensioned up. Sump gasket between block and tray then ill use sealant between tray and sump.

Block end casings painted with new radial seals and surface seals fitted, new gen crank pulley drilled for additional dowel pin and new pulley bolt.

Sump fitted with new stainless bolts and fitted a brand new gen breather pod.

New gen pulley fitted, with a nos lower belt cover that I payed to much for ha. Gates power grip belt put on.

Painted and fitted the engine mount, new mount bolts

Then found exact TDC and marked the crank pulley for setting up the vernier cam pulley.

Metal head gasket, and then put the head on and tightened it down.

New INA tappets

Schrick 268/264 turbo cam in!

Top rear timing cover on, catcams pulley fitted. Gates water pump and belt tensioned up and timed up, vernier all set up using dial gauge and DTI blar blar blar, ha

Then put the cam splash guard thing on before I forgot, put the cam cover on can't find a pic of when I fitted it but got it painted crackle red! Thanks Taylor!

Engine and box built!! Lets just hope the box won't crap itself and spit out its gears with 200 bhp going through it (fingers crossed).

so much new and shiny

Wow FairPlay mate top work 👍 and congrats on fitting the LSD yourself I know I wouldn't fancy stripping my gearbox to bits!

Fitting the LSD was the easy bit! To be honest it was all suprisingly easy, just a bit of a ball ache pulling the old bearings off the input and output shafts and setting the preload. But I wouldnt mind doing it again was quite fun!! Also helped my mate fit his LSD to his 20vt build. An 02A gearbox is a lot less complex than the 085 boxes that's for sure!

your car puts my turbo to shame haha. wish i didnt see your build :P how do you check for endfloat on the crankshaft? thinking i may go down the forged engine route in the future :)

Just put a DTI gauge one the end of the crank and move it side to side and measure the endfloat. Got the specs out of a Haynes manual. I only checked because they machined the thrust washer contact surface on the crank and I'm still using standard size washers so I wanted to make sure it was in spec. Plus it's good practice and peace of mind :)

Amazing!

Ryan, this looks just amazing! Cant wait to see it.

Thanks guys!

This next bit I lacked a lot on taking photos, but will take some more soon when i'm better and getting back on with it! It's coming together nicely now and its just a case of bolting things on now really, just itching to get back on with it!! With work and only really getting weekends to work on this I plan to have it running and fully mapped and reliable for next polo social if everything goes to plan..

So dug out the engine crane ready to put the engine back in!

Re-zinc plated spacer plate and engine mount washers. New mount bolts. Cleaned up the bell housing bolts, and even though the subframe was new I got it powder coated with the rear mount just as it's a more durable finish. I don't know if I mentioned that I sold the stage 2 frame and bought a stage 3..

Plate fitted ready for lightened and balance flywheel and stage 2 kevlar CG motorsport clutch..That I cant find a photo for witch is annoying..

Anyway got the flywheel torqued up (new bolts off peteg40) and clutch on. Gearbox on and then dropped it in! Lots of cloths down the side of the bay so I didn't scratch anything but it went in fine no damage to anything :) result!!

Clamp is on the front so I could fit the subframe, so got the stage 3 frame on and all mounts tight!

Lifted the engine in with old hooks as I didn't want to damage my nice shiny re-zinced ones also fitted my dipstick that I also got zinc plated ha. Powder coated water pipe fitted, and yes all new bolts and nuts fitted

Clutch cable fitted and adjusted, removed the plastic hoop on the pedal side of the cable and used a metal hoop from a guy on here that made a batch will get a pic soon.

Then made a short shifter. Stripped my gear linkage down and modified the rod so I could bolt a rose joint to it. I looked and the german made ones on the web and just copied their idea basically. It has adjustment so I can bolt the rose joint higher or lower for less or more short shift . Ordered and relevant rose joint to just fit on the lever with small play so it can move up and down on the lever rod for reverse. Got the main box part and rod powder coated and then re-built it all! All cleaned and re-greased with a new febi gear lever repair kit!

Then fitted it on the car! Re-zinced clamp and selector finger bracket with a new selector finger and bush as the old one was worn out.

I do love all the zinc parts ha! Zinc plated lower bell housing plate too! Shame they probably won't stay shiny for long :( oh well won't care when I'm boosting!!

And after adjusting the rod so I can get all the gears it works a treat!! Real short shift compared to standard. And all feels nice and smooth.

Impressive stuff this. High quality builds like this don't come along very often.

pretty much a brand new car :) gear linkage looks smart.

Fook sake Ryan, this is too much!

Cheers chaps! Haha what is Max?

Right last little bit then i'm up to date!

Cleaned up the headlights and fitted Hella clear indicators. I just polished the headlight lens and took that frames off and painted the back of the headlight just to freshen it up a bit.

Then I finally got the wings, bonnet, fuel flap and doors back! New os wing and the old one was past it with too much rust.

Fitted them! Got the shut lines as good as I could, was a bit of a pain passenger door and wing are a bit close but not to bad. I think its just down to being a different door off a late mk2f but it will be fine :). I got stainless steel fixings for the wings and bonnet lifters.

The order in that I did things might be a bit different, but got the from uprated rad bar fitted and powder coated bumper bar (that I think I will have to take off again to mod it so the FMIC has enough room).

Zinc plated bonnet catch with stainless fixings

Bonnet lifters, also you can just see I also fitted clear side repeaters

Rear badges back on, rear wiper blanking grommet also fitted and some new clips for boot plinth and number plate to be secured to.

Front wings were wax oiled between the mating surfaces and then after they were fitted I sealed them on with body sealer. I soooo hope they don't have to come off again because it's not going to be easy to take them off! Then after the sealer dried stone chipped over it and all of the inside of the wings. Touched up a few areas on the inner wing too.

These then turned up!

Lots of other parts I have now acquired, have pretty much everything I need to finish the car now! Will put them up on here as I fit them.

The radiator fan switch won't fit in my new radiator as they made it with a M20 thread god knows why the switch is a m22 but i've seen others have had trouble too with this. I saw the that a few people made adapters and one person I saw got their switch machined to a m20. Didn't like that idea as my switch is a lower temp "rs" one and didn't want to have to get another one if it didn't go to plan. Could of drilled and tapped the rad but didn't want to if i could get an adapter couldn't find anything relevant on the web. So stinkypete on here made me and adapter! I wish I had access to machinery! Fits perfect though, got hold of a copper washer for the m20 side. Job done thanks pete!

Thermostat housing fitted, new seals obviously. Lower themp thermostat in with new temp sensors (Hella). First of my sfs hoses fitted. Worked out all the pipe diameters and ordered some proper black hose clips (spring type). They look neater and the old ones were rusty jubilee type ones.

Dug out the starter and cleaned off all the rust. Then painted it the same colour as the gearbox. After that dried I painted the motor part black and sort of blended it into the silver, thought it looked cool and sort of OEM.

Oil separator cleaned out and fitted.

New higher amp alternator, gave it some paint. As G40 belt tension is done my the charger they have a solid lower bracket to fix the alternator. So needed an adjustable arm and tension nut gear thing. Struggled to find one for some reason. Found that you can get them new from vw heritage for £15 and an adjuster nut for £3 so just got one, not having to mess about then. All fitted and new belt tensioned up.

Few pics...

Seat bases made they are only fitted to test fit, will show pics of what I did with the seat bases when fitted them properly.

Looking soooooo good.

Simon

New B-pillar stickers on

and number plate surround sticker. Was a bit of a pain to get it to sit on without bubbles and creases but with a bit of heat it went on okay and is as good as it's going to be.

Dug the wheels out the loft, this is a pic when I bought them

as you know I need 14s to run my 256s would like to of used my BBS wheels but wont fit over brakes. Was thinking of getting some 14s in the same style but I do like the look of these scirocco wheels. Anyway got them out the loft and had a good look at them they were straight with no buckles but were very badly corroded and had a few curb scuffs on the edges. But I cant complain as they only cost me £70.

Anyway took them down to The Wheel Specialist seen a lot of there work and its awesome! I wanted to get the faces re-dimond cut and have the inserts grey but after them looking at them the corrosion is extensive and will cost a lot to re-cut the face and I might of lost the shape of the face because they would of had to of cut it back so far. So plan B happened witch was just to get them one solid colour. So chose a colour and left them to it. Dipped, blasted, prepped, painted and a final clear coat.

This is how they turned out!

So happy how they look! They look brand new!

New Yoko A539 tyres 185/50/14 77v (a lot of head scratching on what sizes tyres to run)

Edited 18 June, 201511 yr by RyanC

That it basically up to date now finally. I'm going to keep on top of this now (I hope). Just need to recover from this opp and get on with it! Will update a few little bits in the mean time :)

the quality on this build is insane Ryan!