how the fuck did you manage that

how the fuck did you manage that

Heavy foot?

Suppose I should update my build thread a bit, I'm seeming to be pretty poor at this...

So I snapped my engine mount as you guys may have seen in the previous post..

While she's been off the road she's had a good old clean, and a bit of weigh saving...

She's been de-wipered (which I can tell you now saves quite a bit of weight with that bloody anchor of a bootlid, just got 45mm grommet from halfords.

I've undersealed the rear underside of the car, I couldn't do a great deal due to not owning a jack yet! (madness I know).. I was literally kissing the underneath of my car..

I've stripped the dash back again, taken all of the lights out and wiring room due to it flickering and I didn't really like it, took the white element which (I guess) spreads the light and removed the labels that show you what knobs control what (weight saving I guess??), I only did it really because the clips to hold them in was snapped and I was too lazy to try to fit them back in.

Rewired head unit power and ground so it's running straight from the battery. Not sure if I prefer bypassing ignition, I suppose it's got pro's and cons.

Drivers side seatbelt stripped as Luke harness now installed.

Little tip for running clip in harness' with the standard runners..

due to the fact that clip in harness' obviously require the eyes to clip into you can't normally use the thread where the standard seatbelt clips go.

So, I've thought of a simple solution for this..

All you have to do is rotate the runner 180 degrees, so instead of it pointing towards the front of the car, it's pointing backwards.

You must be careful doing it this way as it can make adjusting the seat a bit of a task...

Though, while using harness', you shouldn't really be adjusting your seat anyway.

Just make sure it's definitely clicked in, because you do use up more rail because your runner is about an inch behind where it normally would be.

Sealed up a few inside spots which could be causing the leak, not sure if this has fixed it without driving it.

Edited 23 July, 201214 yr by charliejennings

Hello all,

I'm very bad at this progress thing.

So heres a list of things that have been done since my last post (I think i've remembered everything).

- Lower Control Arms

- Cambelt (Timing was about 2 teeth out)

- Rear upper OMP strut brace

- Fire Extingrisher

- Oil Catch can

- CV boot (I split the last one in half)

- Stripped all carpet out

- Washer bag in the boot

- Mounted speakers in the side of my rear quarters (where the door cards should be)

Then I broke down..

My alternator belt snapped on the QE2 bridge and jumped into my cambelt sprockets causing me to jump the crankshaft sprocket and this is the result..

here's where the valves hit the pistons

So.. 16 new valves, a head gasket, new head bolts and some XHT paint is on the way..

Things on order..

- Magnetic Sump plug

- XHT Paint

- Choke Cable

- Weber Accelerator Cable

- Sytec Pedal block (for dual weber cable)

- Sytec adjustable Fuel pressure regulator - trying to get the carbs running nicer, I get some fuel starvation sometimes on big load..

- Valve Spring compressor

- Torque Wrench

- Rotor arm (and a spare)

- Dizzy cap

- 6n Top mounts

Edited 4 October, 201213 yr by charliejennings

Its 6n top cups you want, not mounts

cant believe you bent all 16 how the hell man

thats some good going to bend all 16 man how much all 16 new valves cost you

and do you need a new gearbox mount as i have one for sale atm

thats some good going to bend all 16 man how much all 16 new valves cost you

and do you need a new gearbox mount as i have one for sale atm

I drive hard :p

£211 for head gasket + 16 new valves + head bolts.

Gearbox mount was done long ago dude.

Thanks though.

Its 6n top cups you want, not mounts

Why? What's wrong with 6n top mounts? They fit perfectly fine?

Just get a new head. Replacment valves are shit lol

Its 6n top cups you want, not mounts

Why? What's wrong with 6n top mounts? They fit perfectly fine?

Have you tried them? I'm pretty sure its just the top cups which are any use to you

Its 6n top cups you want, not mounts

Why? What's wrong with 6n top mounts? They fit perfectly fine?

Have you tried them? I'm pretty sure its just the top cups which are any use to you

http://www.clubpolo.co.uk/forum/index.php?...amp;mode=linear

They are £11 brand new from VW for the pair.

Just get a new head. Replacment valves are shit lol

And how do you justify that exactly?

Are you speaking from experience, or are you regurgitating something you've read from some imbecile on the internet?

If replacement valves are shit, I wonder how race cars manage...?

Because race car ... Yeah but for the money you are paying u could just buy a head and drop it on.. Are the oem valves?

Add to list:

Setup carbs/ignition

Because race car ... Yeah but for the money you are paying u could just buy a head and drop it on.. Are the oem valves?

Yeah, I'm replacing the valves with brand new OEM valves..

I don't see how nobody can see the benefit of rebuilding my head.

I'm getting brand new valves, none of them will leak even slighty.

I could buy another engine for £30 more than getting new valves, I know getting another is easier and cheaper but I feel that replacing the valves is preventing anything happening in the future... so I'll have a better engine...

Edited 19 October, 201213 yr by charliejennings

Add to list:

Setup carbs/ignition

Already on list.

Anyone played with MSD with an AFH lump? :)

Edited 19 October, 201213 yr by charliejennings

There is absolutely no guarantee new valves won't leak lol

There is absolutely no guarantee new valves won't leak lol

But they have a better chance that used ones, just lap them in and get the seats re-ground to the new valve and you'll be fine.

The guides ideally need changing too if your going through the hassle of changing valves or else your risking accelerated stem wear, fatigue and maybe even dropping a valve (as a worst case scenario of course). At the least you'll want to measure the ID of the guides that you have to make sure they aren't worn beyond tolerance.

You could buy a second hand head and have the old valves lapped in to save money. That should help them seal better

New stem seals too

Yeah. If fitted properly they'll be fine.

But just because they're new doesn't mean they won't leak

Also, I never changed my guides, checked them against wear limits.

If you were changing guides its probably best to get somewhere to do them for you.

Decent engine places often just make guides to suit as apposed to using new OE ones

Goes without saying

I know what your trying to do with the re-building of the head as I rebuilt a whole engine. Although I did it as much for the experience as to make it a 'new' engine. But the money involved is considerable so it really is worth listening to people when they recomend that a second hand head may be a better option. As you say, it may not last long with a used head, but are you confident you can put the head together properly? If not then your paying someone to do it for you (unless you have nice friends) which then further adds to costs. 16 new OEM valves are going to cost a fair amount, then with new guides (if yours are buggered) and seals I can't see it being financially viable myself. However, when I do the next engine transplant, I will be rebuilding it again, so I can't really talk! But I have the money and time put aside to do this. and if it goes wrong, its not my daily.

People may come across as putting you down, but its sometimes worth listening to others.

Goes without saying

I know what your trying to do with the re-building of the head as I rebuilt a whole engine. Although I did it as much for the experience as to make it a 'new' engine. But the money involved is considerable so it really is worth listening to people when they recomend that a second hand head may be a better option. As you say, it may not last long with a used head, but are you confident you can put the head together properly? If not then your paying someone to do it for you (unless you have nice friends) which then further adds to costs. 16 new OEM valves are going to cost a fair amount, then with new guides (if yours are buggered) and seals I can't see it being financially viable myself. However, when I do the next engine transplant, I will be rebuilding it again, so I can't really talk! But I have the money and time put aside to do this. and if it goes wrong, its not my daily.

People may come across as putting you down, but its sometimes worth listening to others.

You'd know that simon

*EDIT*

Edited 19 October, 201213 yr by MaxGT

Eh? I'd know what?