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I want more power from my 6n 1.4 8v

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Hi there,

Was thinking about giving my 6n some extra power, it's a 1,4 classic (8v). Been looking a bit on this chip: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-POLO-6N-1-4L-...=item4aaba0424f

Does anyone have experience with this chip? Does it speed up the car as promised?

Is there any other way to get some more power or should i go for a bigger engine? I have seen a post about 1,4 to GTI and to 1,4 16v, but none to 1.6 8v. How difficult would it be to fit in the 1.6 8v engine?

I would love to get some answers on this, please dont spam the thread with "get another car"-stuff, thanks.

- Chris

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  • harris.racing
    harris.racing

    There was an MPI 1.4 - AEX I think. You can adjust your timing manually, more isn't necessarily better, VW probably thought about it and optimised it, also has knock control for too much. At the e

The 1.6 8v wouldnt be a hard swap - but the 1.4 16v is a better engine imo

HarrisRacing did this to his, he had a long thread on it in the Mark 4 section of the galleries.

Them chips only work on the SPI engines

  • Author
Them chips only work on the SPI engines

So this will not work on my car? can you explain what SPI is? (I don't know it).

@Ross - Do you mean the 1.4 8v to 1.6 8v conversion?

I dunno, what's your code? SPI is single point injection, MPI is multipoint.

Tbh the 1.4 engines are shit, pretty reliable and last but not good for modding or performance.

Id look at fitting a 1.4 16v, more power out the box, unless you want to throw money at a 1.6 8v

SPI is single point injection

the only SPI 6n was the 1.3 which was an early model, shared the engine with a mk2 golf i believe

onlyiknow this because its what i have :p

so harris, would it be worth me sticking one in mine? :p

Sorry for the thread hijack :p

There was 1.4 SPIs and 1.6.

I spoke to people regarding them chips and are for an SPI engine, hence why majority of people don't have chips as they have an MPI.

I dunno, IMO all the 6n engines apart from the valver are pretty shit

  • Author

The code is AEX, but i guess it's a MPI... So in fact there isn't any possibility to get some more HP's out of this engine?

  • 1 year later...

A lil info on SPI

SPI 1994-1995/6

1.043l spi <<<<my motor

1.3spi

and a 1.6 spi


----

MPI much easier to get performance (later loom engines are more frequently for sale)

take off entire air box and you have a 51mm throttle body to which a short ram induction would benefit massively (noise and power) IMO

so,you have to dismantle the ECU and solder the chip over there or swap it ? I wouldnt do this to my car. I''d rather look for a ""chip box"" wich intercepts some sensor signals.

basically ,tricking the ECU to advance more the timming can be done by ""cooling"" the intake air temp signal, the theory is : the cooler the air ECU thinks is the more advance will put in wich is good for fuel economy and throttle response.

There was an MPI 1.4 - AEX I think.

You can adjust your timing manually, more isn't necessarily better, VW probably thought about it and optimised it, also has knock control for too much.

At the end of the day, with this engine and being NA; a chip/remap will probably see you gains of what, maybe 5hp, perhaps a bit better drivability, but no matter what you do, regarding induction kits, exhausts etc etc, the gains will be massively out weighed by the cost

Adjusting the distributor manually wont make anything good but to unfix the injection timming regarding the valves opening moment leading to serious worse perfomance,pollution,fuel consumption. I''ve tried it.

The key is to have a "natural" and a "dinamic" ignition timing as you push the throttle, the ecu to naturally advance the timing as it normally does.

Now i'm testing a variable resistor in parallel to make the air intake temp sensor to read ...let's say 5-10 Celsius instead of 25-40 Celsius as it usually reads.This will lead to advance a litlle with no risk to start pinging.

ECU is designed to advance with a few degrees when cold air is detected as the cooler air is the denser it is and little more time is needed to ignite the mixture.

Another good way is to hijack the MAP sensor, to trick the ECU that more load is applied ,as it will automatically advance the timing until pinging is detected.

Why will moving the distributor not advance it?

When you set the ignition timing on these, it relies on you setting it correct (eg 5 degrees base timing)

If you set it to say 8 instead of 5, the ECU will think it's at 5, so you'll be running 3 degrees more through the range, until it detects knock and backs it off.

Thats not to say it won't cause other issues with injection timing etc too though.

I don't have access to photobucket, but the attached picture is one from a standard VW AUQ file. Yes, it's a 1.8t, but the concept is the same.

It's the amount of load requested for a change in inlet temperature. If you look, between 9 and 30 degrees, the requested load is the same. Go below

-9 degrees, and you get an extra 0.05% extra requested.

I can change the maps so that at 9 degrees I can have an extra 200% load, but I wouldn't do that. So unless you can get access to a map pack, give up with your variable resistor, it's just a placebo effect! :sorry:

@

harris.racing

Injection timming is syncronised by the same signal sent by the Hall sensor inside the dizzy.

As long as Motronic MP9 (as on AEX) is secvential the system will fire each injector alone when the inlet valve opens, so if you ""advance"" the dizzy the injector will squirt early when the valve is not open yet (or not fully at least),with bad effects especially at low rpm rage.

The gasoline will no longer be sprayed,it will be sucked inside the cylinder as liquid, the combustion goes bad ,high unburnt HC, hence lower rpm, the ECU will tent to compensate this by increasing the injection time hence high fuel consumption, high level of soot etc.

I"ve tried this,advancind the distributor with a timming light and drove the car like this for a couple of months and observed all those bad effects as described above.Let alone the 0561 Error Code ecu started to throw all along since. Once I've set back the dizzy ""a la carte"" the fuel consumption , throtthle response and tailpaipe-ignition spark plugs colour have restored back / no 00561 error for over an year .

Edited by zenza

#Harris.Ricing

Edited by Adam-

Didn't deny it effecting fuelling, even says in my post lol.

It's a waste of time though?! :lol:

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