I got replacements from VW, but they only do the seal that goes into waterpump housing, like 4 quid each.

The other seal to thermostat housing isnt available from VW anymore

So I did right ? I got a brand new thermostat housing which had new o rings in it, and it was assembled. Just the only o ring that wasn't available was the one on the end of the plastic water pipe . With my head gasket set I also go two new o rings , but they did not fit. They must be for the thermostat housing.

I got replacements from VW, but they only do the seal that goes into waterpump housing, like 4 quid each.

The other seal to thermostat housing isnt available from VW anymore

yes it is as i got one brand new last week.

Did you still need to use sealant ?

no lol

So I got the little slut running today! started up first time too.

Just a slight oil drip from the rocker cover near the oil T -piece. Can sort it out tomorrow.

Need to final tighten my drive shaft bolts and see how my clutch cable and gear linkage fairs after a test drive.

And my exhaust has been shifted down about 40 mm due to the reducer/ joiner, so I will cut down the rear exhaust pipe that feeds into the center pipe and slot it back in so my rubbers on the silencer box line up with my metal hooks under the car, and remove the temporary tie wraps haha.

Something is causing my horn to sound all the time so I disconnected the loom connector for now, I cant think what would cause it.

And also when I turned the ignition on the bike pump primed as it should, but then it carried on priming and fuel was bubbling out of one of the venting pipes, which is not good lol.

And then when I pulled on the throttle cable a few times, one time I'm sure fuel shot out of the venting pipe.

So I have a few things I need to iron out, the engine sounded so loud, I know the manifold was blowing , so I have torqued the nuts up to 25 nm, so Hopefully it wont blow tomorrow now.

There is a video on instagram iff any of you follow me or want to, names dart_strife on there to.

Great effort man, Happy its fianlly running, My fuel pump primes for awhile then stops when i first start it up,

Get it sorted and get over here, then to action!

lol I am trying! I have sorted the exhaust out today, I just need to put it on now, from the 4-2-1 back is sat in my hall way ha ha. It was 50 mm to long, so I cut it short and had the back section welded to the center section, I will put it on the car tomorrow and address the rocker cover oil drip.

bike pumps will switch off when theres no demand .. so no such thing as priming . Mine would stay on for ages. The amount of fuel in the tank can make a difference too

bike pumps will switch off when theres no demand .. so no such thing as priming . Mine would stay on for ages. The amount of fuel in the tank can make a difference too

Yes well which ever term you want to use , it kept giving fuel and not stopping when the float bowls were full , so it was coming out the breather vent

Mine literally turns off, if you have the mounting bolt too tight you can feel it going

Click.........click...........click, in traffic.

o ring is available, no you don't need sealant, the whole point is not needing to use sealant, that's like using a gasket and sealant, should be no reason to.

Who's setting it up - anyone with an accurate RR or you fonna claim 150hp at the wheels from Boggs! Lol

Lol I know Boggs rollers were not accurate before , but i am using them again , as the ABD pulled great after Brian put hos wrinkly fingers on my carbs lol.

Well it's sealed now , so no worries .

Well after starting the car today the horn was fine , and the bike pump was acting normal, so I'm assuming all of those issues are solved.

I put the exhaust back on and there was only a slight bit of blowing at the de-cat flange joining the 4-2-1 manifold pipe , all down to me mounting the spring an bolts in the wrong order I imagine as there were no instructions!

Any one know were I can buy replacement gaskets for this in the future ?

With less blowing the engine sounded a lot better ! And ran better when I let it sit , how ever only with the choke on as it needs tuning . With the choke off it would grumble then cut out .

Just need to sort the gear linkage an oil drip at the rocker cover now .

I think i will invest in an AFR emmissions reader , any one recommend a brand ect ?

I guess not ......

AFH update:

Oil drip sorted with sealant

Gear linkage is spot on

Clutch cable is sweet as

Drive shaft bolts finally tightened up

I just need to tighten up the de-cat flange with the bolts and springs in the morning.

I called Bogg Bros and they are to busy to tune my car until next Thursday! Dave has Wednesdays off so I'm shit out. Really want it doing or I cant take it to VW Festival on Friday, but I cant if it isn't tuned.

Any one recommend a tuning place for carbs near Hull other than Bogg?

theres nothig stopping you driving it if you dont drive it like a dick lol...

theres nothig stopping you driving it if you dont drive it like a dick lol...

Yer I would rather not tho, when I do drive it to the tuners I will most definitely keep it under 4k revs

theres nothig stopping you driving it if you dont drive it like a dick lol...

Yer I would rather not tho, when I do drive it to the tuners I will most definitely keep it under 4k revs

Just buy an AEM wideband off ebay and learn to it yourself, its the easyest thing in the world.

And youll probably end up with a better setup than if you were taking it to bog bros

theres nothig stopping you driving it if you dont drive it like a dick lol...

Yer I would rather not tho, when I do drive it to the tuners I will most definitely keep it under 4k revs

Just buy an AEM wideband off ebay and learn to it yourself, its the easyest thing in the world.

And youll probably end up with a better setup than if you were taking it to bog bros

I would love to do it my self, how do I do it though? Would I only require an AEM wide-band unit ?

Like this one on Ebay 271026084742 ?

Or do I need some thing else as well ? Whats the item called that they use on each carb to get a reading then match it up on each other carb? to balance them , that's what I saw at Bogg.

It aint rocket science lmao

Plug Sensor in, see what it says, and change jets to suit?!?!

Dont spray the jets wrinkle black though that wont help

Edited 14 August, 201312 yr by erixtar1992

This is the one you want, great peice of kit for the money,

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271026084742?redirect=mobile

Youll pretty much only have to change two things to get it set up ok, these are;

Main jets (come into play from around half to full throttle)

Pilot jet screws (these control fuel metering at idle, and up to about 2000rpm)

There is other things that can be fine tuned, but these can wait. Its also important that the carbs are balanced, I've had bad luck with sets of carbs I've bought and theyve been way out of balance. On the other hand eric has never had to do his, and when he checked his they were fine anyway.

You basically fit the wideband unit. Run the car and then see how the engine is currently running, AFR wise.

Then you can start adjusting/changing the two things i mentioned above.

This is the one you want, great peice of kit for the money,

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271026084742?redirect=mobile

Youll pretty much only have to change two things to get it set up ok, these are;

Main jets (come into play from around half to full throttle)

Pilot jet screws (these control fuel metering at idle, and up to about 2000rpm)

There is other things that can be fine tuned, but these can wait. Its also important that the carbs are balanced, I've had bad luck with sets of carbs I've bought and theyve been way out of balance. On the other hand eric has never had to do his, and when he checked his they were fine anyway.

You basically fit the wideband unit. Run the car and then see how the engine is currently running, AFR wise.

Then you can start adjusting/changing the two things i mentioned above.

Yes that is also the unit I found, when it comes to balancing carbs, are they balanced to the engine or just the carbs balanced to them selves? As mine were balanced at Bogg. but that was on the ABD engine.

Also I have been looking on you tube and I have seen videos of motor bikes balanced with a mercury carb tune, or a balancer with four dials, both of these just plug onto each carb with hose, can we do this with our carbs on the car engine? Or do we need another sort of balancer which I could see at Bogg and cannot find yet on the internet? It has a big rubber unit on it which reads each carb through the air intake.

The carb balance may have altered with the new inlet manifold, and engine. Each cylinder will draw a slightly different amount of air so they need tweaking.

You balance them in pairs eg

Balance carb 1+2 to be the same, then balance 3+4 to be the same (doesn't have to be the same as 1+2) then match the two pairs together with the "master" carb (the centre adjustment between 2+3)

And it is fairly easy to set up yourself, ideally though you need a selection of jets, some different needles and slide

springs help too really, just then again in AFH world it seems 145 mains is fine lol. What brand 145's I don't know.

And the different balancers you describe - doesn't really matter which you use, the "4 gauge" type you ideally need a tapin on each inlet tract, or carbs which have blanks which you can remove and fit balance gauges to.

The ones with the rubber bit which pushes into the trumpet are quite good, as long as you can remember which value they all are, and if it fits between your bulkhead or not

I use a weber syncrometer, there about £30 off ebay,

This is what bogg bros will use, quick and easy, probably not as accurate as the 4 gauge.

Nah it is as accurate I reckon max, Bilco had his at pod and I know mine were balanced, tried his and read the same so.

Here is a picture of my carbs, and there are four of these, so this is were I would hook up the carb balance unit as I dont have any vac lines on my inlet manifold?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CARB-CARBURETTOR...=item5639f2c077

So this is a four cylinder carb balancer

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Morgan-Carbtune-...=item3cd41bf02e

And this is a different type

Not sure mate it's hard to say, which carbs do you have?

& them balancers both do the same thing, the more expensive one is meant to be a little better, not sure why unless it's just smoother because it's liquid, the gauges jump around but have an adjustable restrictor in line to smooth it out