thermostat housing blanked off

I have made some progress on my hockenheim centre caps, they were it really bad shape, and the wrong colour for them. So i have fixed them up, and I'm very happy with the results. Rubbed them down as much as i could and tried to rub out the big gash's in them, plastic primed them then sprayed the 1013 RAL cream to match the new powder coated colour.

Also there is a picture there of my AAU thermostat housing, it has four blanked of inlets and outlets, two for the coolant expansion tank, and two for the AAU inlet manifold.

I have also finished the fuelling and wiring on the car for the bike carbs, pictures to follow and what i did.

I have also bought a sheet of 1.2 mm thickness stainless steel, 1250 mm by 400 mm in size, I'm going to attempt to make my self a custom scuttle pan to cover the full area, hide the battery and fuse box and be rid of the cheap plastic one.

Edited 11 July, 201313 yr by dart_strife

bike carb fuel hose

Also when sorting the fuelling for the feed hose to the bike pump, then to the carbs you need :

8mm 5/16 4 feet of fuel hose £4 on Ebay

8mm to 8mm hose joiner £3.50 Ebay

Get good quality black rubber hose and a brass hose joiner

Edited 11 July, 201313 yr by dart_strife

Whats going on with the blanking plugs on hoses ??

sure half of them are needed .. For heater and ratiator etc ?

Whats going on with the blanking plugs on hoses ??

sure half of them are needed .. For heater and ratiator etc ?

Top fill rad, no heater. DONE!

I think it looks abit scruffy though. I'd of got the holes filled or considered another thermostat housing.

Lads it was a new thermostat housing , so when I replace it again I will get a GT one , which is two less inlets I think. Two are for the expansion tank , two are for the inlet manifold as I have removed it . I tried linking them with hoses , but they kinked and I didn't like it , I will cut the jubilee clips excess off for now.

Edited 19 January, 201313 yr by dart_strife

Got good news , my custom exhaust manifold and accelerator pedal are ready to pick up . Weather's so bad, hopefully can get them tomorrow , and get ready for bogg bros

Edited 20 January, 201313 yr by dart_strife

Water goes to the inlet manifold?? wtf you serious?

Water goes to the inlet manifold?? wtf you serious?

yes on a spi , goes in comes out , keeps the inlet mani at a warm temperature , good for fueling or something

I have received my custom accelerator pedal from a friend of a friend called Elliot, he grinded off the thin end of the bar which the original cable hooked over and welded me on a 10mm alloy bar to extend the length. And has drilled six holes, three on each end through it so I have a choice of where i want my accelerator cable to be threaded through and secured with a solder less nipple. £10 legend!

This actually ended up being too long so i hack sawed off about 40mm, lost the three holes at that end, but didnt need them, you only need two holes close to were the bar was welded on.

Edited 1 February, 201313 yr by dart_strife

Its here! Again Elliot has sorted me out with this one, i supplied the flanges which I got from a firm called Parmac engineering in Hull. Brian the owner did me them for £65 a bit pricey but never mind. Elliot then charged me £140 to supply the piping, bend it and weld it all into place to finish the exhaust manifold. So all in £205 , this at first seemed pricey, but then when i thought about it, it is quite complicated compared to the Bogg Bro's inlet manifold i had done, and that was £230 I think, which is a lot simpler. A lot of messing around but at least this should allow the car to pass M.O.T's on emissions as I can keep the cat, and it looks good and different to every one else's. The manifold is about two thirds lighter and wont get as hot, I could smell the hot cast iron one when my heater blowers were on when sat in the car. I will be putting it on tomorrow iff the weather allows me too, pictures to follow.

sprayed vw badges

While the car has been off the road I have sprayed the front and rear badges, I had done them previously in a silver but was not happy with the shade, I went and bought a metallic spray paint and gave it a go. I am well happy with the results! doesn't look tacky at all.

Edited 11 July, 201313 yr by dart_strife

So i went to Bogg Brothers, on friday and have had my car set up correctly and rolling roaded. By good old Dave Bogg, £70 on low loader, and £80 for the session. The car was hitting 100 BHP on the dyno, and also passing on emissions, which is good for when i get the MOT. Every thing i had done for the set up was 100 per cent correct, so i will get more pictures this week of every thing i have done and post them on her here explained well. The car is incredibly quick, papped my pants driving it home, so fast off the mark, i hit 110 MPH so easily and did'nt dare go above it lol.

All Dave did extra was add a spring on the throttle wheel to give it more of a snap back, very easy to do.

Also the new custom manifold is on the car, fits perfect and has began going crazy colours because of the heat, i am considering changing my exhaust system again, maybe to a G40 one and then bend the silencer pipe up. As it is soi loud when revving the car, i currently have a Phil Jackson one on.

I have also sorted my rear wash bottle conversion, it was originally blowing the fuse when i was squirting the water. All you do is:

Cut the loom connector off for the front washer bottle wire, leave enough wire on it for crimping wire on to it.

Extend the red and brown wire with your clear water piping under the carpet.

Tape off the blue and brown wire so when it touches anything it does not make contact.

Reattach the red and green wire onto the same colour wire on the loom connector.

Extend the blue and brown wire on the loom connector, then earth it onto a bolt in the boot near the new smaller MK2 rear bottle.

Attach the water pipe onto the MK2 single pump on the bottle and plug on the loom connector.

And there you go, it will now work.

I have also fitted my rear strut brace. Picture to follow .

Got the dyno graph ?

Got the dyno graph ?

Nope , iff I make Birmingham next week, can get one then

Right so here is a list of what i did when fitting my bike carbs :

bike pump secured behind fire panel, inlet marking on it i have put the fuel feed hose from under the car too / other outlet to the carbs

bike pump + wire to coil + / - wire to fuel cut off inertia switch then earthed to fire panel

lighting loom wiring (brown connector) / black and red wire to coil - for rev counter / black 12v feed to coil +

mk2 loom / long black wire to battery - / coil green wire to coil - / coil black wire to coil +

pedal has a hole drilled through / accelerator cable attached through it with a solder less nipple / put the cable through the origional hole near the battery tray, i have used a mounting bolt there and on the cradle on the carbs for the sleeved cables support

choke cable attached to dash on the right side of the steering wheel under light switches / attached with a solder less nipple / drilled a hole in the foot well wall leading into the engine bay above the track rods bracket directly behind the engine

brake servo pipe jubilee clipped onto the inlet manifold

ignition leads set 1 - 3 - 4 - 2 anti clock wise / 1 at 10 oclock, i put engine to tdc and that is were the rotary arm pointed

ignition module behind fire panel / ecu removed / lamba sensor connectors removed

removed inline fuel pump, replaced with a piece of hose and two hose joiners / hose i used from when i removed the return fuel line in the engine bay / thick black hose which has the attaching hole bolt to the throttle body / cut the return line as far back under the car to the petrol tank / and blanked it off with a hose plug

attached fuel hose to the feed fuel hose after cutting off the hole bolt attachment with a hose joiner / attached this hose to the inlet feed on the bike pump behind the fire panel / pushed the hose through the old accelerator cable hole in the fire panel

attached fuel hose to the outlet on the bike pump / then put it through the same old hole were i put the feed fuel hose through in the fire panel to the bike carbs feed attachment

removed the carbon canister in the engine bay and both hoses attached to it, cut the thin black hose that leads under the car as far back as the petrol tank and left it as a breather

pics to follow

You will only be left with the fuel feed hose here

Here is were i joined new fuel hose to the feed fuel hose / and were i put the new fuel hose through the fire panel to the bike pump the back through to the carbs

Here is how the accelerator cable attached to my pedal. Threaded through a hole and secured with a solder less nipple, then passed through another hole and secured with another solder less nipple.

Here is were i mounted my bike fuel pump and fuel inertia switch, behind the fire panel near the blower unit.

Here is were i mounted my choke cable on the dash, right side of the steering wheel under the light switch.

And how i attached the choke cable to the carbs, i bought a mounting bolt unit from a bike shop for a £1, attached it to the carb were there was the OEM clamp for the old cable.

Edited 1 February, 201313 yr by dart_strife

Looking good dude, be nice to see it tomorrow

Looking good dude, be nice to see it tomorrow

cheers bud, be good to meet the lads.

Some more pics here from the conversion.

Carbon canister, i started removing it, cut one hose, then i cut the other off, removed the two screws and it just pulled out leaving one big hole lol. I want to get a blanking plate sorted, also the unit in the picture with the braided hose, this fed to the carbon canister and attached to the spi air intake unit, obviously I removed this too. Carbon canisters are allegedly only good for 8000 miles so it was relatively useless, left the thin black tube from it to breath under the car after i cut it back up to the petrol tank. Picture further up the thread.

Here is a picture of the battery negative were I attached the MK2 loom battery negative wire ( really really long single black wire with a loop connector on it ha )

And a picture of the loom connector for the lamba sensor and its small brown earth wire, I just left this alone under the inlet manifold as I dont need the lamba sensor as i removed the ECU.