HELP

Bulb/Fuse

and you dont need a reverse light anyway.

If your horn works its not fuse 9.

Yeah I know I dont need reverse light. But failed MOT today. On fog light. But if thats tw only reason is failed. Not bothered.

All bulbs + fuses are fine.

Anyone had this happen?

How odd, there on separate fuses so we can rule that out, all the plugs on the lights pushed in fully?

Dodgy fog light switch?

All plugs are fully pushed in. I've checked the switch with a electric circuit thingy and there is a feed when it's off and on. Yet no response on the lights and I've changed the switch for safe measure and it's not that either :S

Stumped

are you getting voltage at the bulb connector?

if not, and there's voltage coming from the switch, then it's probably a break in the wiring somewhere.

if you're getting voltage to the bulb connector, then have you actually tried a new bulb, as some duff bulbs can still look ok, but not function.

What if there's no voltage from the switch?

Keep us updated on this one please as I'm having a similar problem, but no 'leccy at the connector

sure your bulbs are making good contact with the terminals?

He came over to mine to see if we could sort it yesterday, tryed my spare switch, and we found that mine has exactly the same problem . Its got power, the fuses are fine, bulb seems ok, connectors pushed in, yet no fog light. The yellow light that tells you its on doesnt come on either. Seems like we have a common problem here. Looked in my service history, and its failed its MOT on no rear fog before

This is exactly the problem I have too. I have checked all of my connections from switch-fuse-rear loom the lot. Have tried 3 fog switches too, and none work.

Let's get our heads together and sort it

If you have battery voltage (or thereabouts) at the switch, but neither the light itself or the warning light will come 'on', you have probably got high resistance between the fuse and the switch - try checking with a test light instead of the voltmeter, if this won't light, or only lights dimly, high resistance is the cause, so all connections in that feed are suspect, including the fuse holder.

The above is a good example of why you should use a voltmeter (ore electronic circuit tester, which doesn't draw much current AND a test light, which does draw more current. If you only use a voltmeter/circuit tester, you can fool yourself into thinking that there is no problem. If you use only a test light, you could be forgiven for thinking that there was no voltage at the test point, whereas what it is really short of is current.

Another method that you can try is to connect the wire that goes to the light from the switch, directly to battery positive - if the lamp now lights, there is no fault on the rest of the circuit.

Regards.

How can I test to see whether the headlight switch is 'turning the fog switch on'? Iirc, the fogs only work with the headlights on.

yeah fogs only work with headlights and ignition

I tested all of the terminals on the fog switch for continuity, and there doesn't seem to be any issues there. However, I only used a multimeter set to 'Ohms', so would it still be best to test with a test bulb? There is no warming lamp (inside the switch) turning on.

The signal didn't change when i switched the HEADLIGHTS on and off, so how are the fogs 'told' to switch on with the when headlights are on? Is there a relay some where? Also, looking at the haynes, there appears to be a relay. Is there a relay for the REAR fogs? If so, which one?

Took to my local garage and the bloke power plugged it form the fuse (2) so basically putting power in from the fuse to rear lights and the fog lit up. So I assume there's a break from switch to fuse. Left it there and bet I have a hefty bill but mot is today so has to be done.

Can I just wire a normal switch to the positive and negative of the fog switch? Without ignition feed and others?

Do you know which fuse it was? I can't seem to trace the wires from switch to fuse on mine

Do you know which fuse it was? I can't seem to trace the wires from switch to fuse on mine

Took to my local garage and the bloke power plugged it form the fuse (2) so basically putting power in from the fuse to rear lights and the fog lit up. So I assume there's a break from switch to fuse. Left it there and bet I have a hefty bill but mot is today so has to be done.

^Its Fuse 2 :-)

I see however, I've now traced mine to the fuse, checking for continuity along the wires, all fine. I've reached the fuse box only to find one terminal on the fuse (there are 2 potential terminals). Is this correct? There also doesn't seem to be a wire 'leaving' the fuse I.e the wire from the fog switch runs to the fuse, but nothing comes out I haven't removed anything in these areas

Edited 5 July, 201214 yr by prankstar2003

Mine is fixed. Cost me 50 beans though :( he said he rewired the switch. I now have illumination in the switch too.

Sorry can't be anymore help

50 sheets? Wow, thats steep!

Anyhow, here's the problem I have. The fuse that the wire from the switch (a yellow and white thick cable) goes to is furthest to the left on the top row, we'll call this fuse 1

Now compare that to this connector which has no wire to connect to fuse 1. So as said, there is currect getting to the fuse, but no way it can 'get out'

Problem solved! Ignore all of my rubbish above, I hadn't traced the correct wires. Any way, there was a white/yellow wire that supplied the live to the switch. Although the wire was at the switch end, at the main ISO-type connector under the dash, the yellow white wire wasn't there on the battery side, meaning there was no voltage getting to the switch. Currently I've just shorted the switch lamp feed to the + on the back of the switch. Ideally I need to get a more permanent fix