any one got any advice to get the car resprayed cheaply thats isnt going to just fall off in the rain

the car started off red but then had a quick spray of white and wasnt protected so now the white is just peeling off

and the car is looking shabby

Edited 8 August, 201214 yr by Gazzer2k

Get a pic up, this sounds hilarious !

tbh dude, if you go cheap, you'll just end up with it all chipping off again, just deal with it for now and get saving :)

Two pack and a roller!

:-D http://wiki.club8090.co.uk/index.php/Bodyw...Roller_painting

heres the link to my build thread with loads of pictures on of before and after and current shoddynes

http://www.clubpolo.co.uk/forum/index.php?showtopic=291953

:-D http://wiki.club8090.co.uk/index.php/Bodyw...Roller_painting

looks quite good that tbh

I've seen a few good paint jobs using combicolor, it's all about getting the mix right and a lot of elbow work....paint.......flat it........paint.......flat it......and so on lol

pics of the paint

Edited 8 August, 201214 yr by Gazzer2k

Tbh your gonna have to sand through all that and get at least back to the original rad colour, then from there you can pretty much paint whatever on it and it will hold, but it looks as though it was painted with imulsion interior paint and the surface wasn't keyed.

If you are on a budget then get down to b&q and get them to mix you up some gloss paint to any colour you want, 3-4 litres should be it. Then park it in a covered area (preferably inside) and either spray it(if you have the equipment) or simply brush it on in light coats.

Then leave it to dry for at least 24 hours (heating will be good) then wet sand and polish with compound, depending on the work put in you could actually get quite a good finish.

We have done this many times at work with commercials (sprayed not brushed) as the white paint is cheap and shines up ral nice. Sounds sh't, but don't knock it tip you tried it! :) plus they where rentals so pretty much came back ever week.

Tbh your gonna have to sand through all that and get at least back to the original rad colour, then from there you can pretty much paint whatever on it and it will hold, but it looks as though it was painted with imulsion interior paint and the surface wasn't keyed.

If you are on a budget then get down to b&q and get them to mix you up some gloss paint to any colour you want, 3-4 litres should be it. Then park it in a covered area (preferably inside) and either spray it(if you have the equipment) or simply brush it on in light coats.

Then leave it to dry for at least 24 hours (heating will be good) then wet sand and polish with compound, depending on the work put in you could actually get quite a good finish.

We have done this many times at work with commercials (sprayed not brushed) as the white paint is cheap and shines up ral nice. Sounds sh't, but don't knock it tip you tried it! :) plus they where rentals so pretty much came back ever week.

yeh i think I'm ganna give it a go myself iv never done anything like it before but i dont have the money tp spend on a proper job, whats the best way to wet sand and polish it and what will i need to do that, and pref how many coats do u recon would be good?

just spoke to a m8 of mine who did a bit of spraying at college and says he can get a gun and compressor so I'm hopeing to spray it myself now

can any one give me a list of the materials il need and how to prep as i have no idea at the moment

youll need to remove all the paint thats peeling off other wise its just going to peel off again, if your having to ask about what you need and how to do it then your pretty much going to end up with another crap job as you dont know what your doing, is it not worth saving to at least let a cheapo shop paint it?

youll need to remove all the paint thats peeling off other wise its just going to peel off again, if your having to ask about what you need and how to do it then your pretty much going to end up with another crap job as you dont know what your doing, is it not worth saving to at least let a cheapo shop paint it?

spot on

If you can get a DA sander then a box of 80, 190, 320 will come in handing. The just use it to get through all the crappy paint, then use the softer grades to flat back the rest. Tou sont need to ho down metal Then if you plan on sorting any dents etc then do this now, if you use filler then use the sander to flat it as I makes it so much easier.

Then you will need a primer, IMO if you spend a little more here and get the better stuff it works out a lot better, if you get a high build primer then spray a few coats and build up a layer. Let it dry then block sand it, iris best to spray a very rough coat of any paint over this so that when you send you can see where the high and low spots are. When it's as flat an smooth as a babies arse then it's time for paint. Spray a few thin coats and let dry slightly(if your using a lacquer) then apply a few more coats of lacquer while the paint is still a little wet, then leave to dry. Voila nice paintwork.

Remember, the time and effort put into the prep work will make or break the end result.

You will need-

Primer, paint, lacquer, thinners, various grades of sand paper, panel beating tools, filler etc the list goes on depending on how much work you want to do. Also as above if you have an enclosed warm area to work in this will improve the finish. If your friend has done this before I am sure he knows what you need.

HTH

apply laquer while the paint is still a little wet! are you a total idiot, thats how you get paint lifting, reacting and micro blistering, you ALWAYS make sure your base is dry befor applying laquer, clearly your not a painter or in the body trade so i would ask people not to follow your instructions, this is not to have a go at you dixy just to help others

That's the way I have done it many times, with no after effects, but I guess everyone does things differently.

its not a case of doing things differently, if you leave the base wet under the clear then you have moisture under your cured clear layer, it will eventualy lift and/or micro blister, this was a more common problem back in the days when everything was wet flatted (nower days things tend to be dry sanded before paint), people werent drying jobs off correctly and was causing micro blistering,sinkage and lifting, in leaving the base wet your doing the same thing so you should always make sure your base is totaly dry before applying any clear, especialy if your painting in water (which everyone should be if you listen to the EU standards), solvent drys quicker but the modern water based paints take longer to dry and you have to be doubly sure before laquering as most of them contain latex and give a different colouration so if you clear before its totaly dry it looks patcy and off colour

as a newbie to painting stuff and on a budget i would suggest you look into painting the car in cellulose based paint. it is single stage (so no lacquer to worry about, although you can lacquer it if you so wish) it can be air dried, you dont need much in the way of protective equipment, safety googles, lint free overalls and a decent mask which filters out solvent vapours.

You want to sand all of the white paint off (although it looks like most of it will flake off anyway) a cheapo palm sander might be a cost effective way of doing this, as you can buy kits which include the paper and everything to get started for around £20. (make sure you use a dust mask when doing this!)

Use some course paper first, around p80 to get most of the white stuff off, then work down the grades to the finest paper supplied with the palm sander, around p400 will do

This should leave you with a reasonably well keyed finish. sand out any rust patches as best as you can, then treat the area with a rust convertor solution (can be bought from mosat auto factors)

Skim the area with filler if required, leave to go off, then sand back smooth to the panel (again I'd use the palm sander for this)

if you have any bare metal, give it a few coats of high build primer. leave it for 5 or so hours, or is possible a day. then feather the primered area into the rest of the paintwork by hand using good quality wet or dry paper (i use it dry, as I dont like getting primed areas wet for reasons mentioned by others on here)

see pic below, dent has been filled, sanded back and feathered into the bodywork (note how the area around the repair has been sanded, so the paint has become dull and flat, this will give the primer something to key to)

As it is a cheap job, I wouldn't bother priming the whole car, just the areas which have gone back to bare metal or have bare filler. So long as the original paint is keyed, the new paint will stick to it.

The car should now be somewhere close to being ready to mask up (it is worth removing as many bits of trim, like door handles, number plate trims, rubber seals, lights etc, as it will be quicker to remove rather than mask them)

You now need to degrease the car (you can get products designed for this, but I generally use a universal spray degreaser. Wipe over the whole car using clean rags. finally go over the car which some tack rags, which will remove any dust, lint or any other general bits.

As a general rule you mix cellulose paint 50/50 with thinners (i use high gloss thinners and it flashes off quicker than std thinners and is well worth the extra outlay)

dust the car all over with a light coat (this is sometimes referred to as a grip coat and helps to avoid getting runs in the paint and will also help show up and bits of bad prep, high spots, low spots etc)

if you are happy you can start applying coats. i normally leave around ten mins between coats, but that is doing the odd panel or a set of wheels. on a whole car, but the time you have worked your way around it, you will probably be ok to spray another coat at the point where you started (i find it is usefull to spray all the edges, door shuts etc first, as they are areas were you would be otherwise likely to have thin areas of paint) build up 4 or 5 layers of paint, then leave the car for a few days. this will allow the paint to cure.

Dont worry if you get runs, or the finish looks a but orange pealy, or not as shiney as you were expecting. this can be rectified later!

The good thing about cellulose paint in plain gloss colours, is that you can wet sand the finish and polish it back up.

Having left the car for a good 5 days the paint should be hard enough that you can start wet sanding. get a bucket of water with some fairy liquid in it (helps to stop the paper clogging) use some quality wet or dry paper (used wet) start at around p800. Use a block with the paper, this will help sand the panel evenly. sand the panel till it looks flat and any signs of orange peal or runs have gone. if you sand to far and go through to the old paint or primer, you will need to remask areas, degrease and apply more coats of paint)

Once done the car will have a flat satin/matt finish (dont panic though!)

(Wing below was actually done using rattle cans, but illustrates the point ok)

Next step is to polish the finish up to a mirror shine. this can be done by hand or with use of a machine polisher (as a newbie I suggest you either do it by hand or use a random orbital dual action machine polisher, as you will most probably burn through the paint if you use a rotary polisher.

I use farcla g3 cutting compound to polish up the finish, but any brand of suitable paint cutting compound can be used, just follow the instructions on the tin.

once the car is up to the desired shine, leave it a month. dont wax it! there may still be solvent present in the paint, waxing, will trap it and the finsh will deteriorate.

after a month you can wax away

if none of the above has made any sense, then probably best you forget about diy painting your car

DISCLAIMER!!!!

THIS IS VERY MUCH A BASIC DIY GUIDE FOR GETTING A HALF REASONABLE JOB FOR NOT MUCH MONEY AND IN LESS THAN PERFECT CONDITIONS, WRITTEN BY SOMEONE WHO IS NOT PROFFESIONALLY TRAINED AND HAS PROBABLY FORGOTTEN TO MENTION THE ODD THING HERE AND THERE, BUT HAS PAINTED A FAIR AMOUNT OF PARTS, WITH A REASONABLE AMOUNT OF SUCCESS!

Edited 15 August, 201214 yr by g40jon

Great little guide jon! That wing came out very nicely!

as a newbie to painting stuff and on a budget i would suggest you look into painting the car in cellulose based paint. it is single stage (so no lacquer to worry about, although you can lacquer it if you so wish) it can be air dried, you dont need much in the way of protective equipment, safety googles, lint free overalls and a decent mask which filters out solvent vapours.

You want to sand all of the white paint off (although it looks like most of it will flake off anyway) a cheapo palm sander might be a cost effective way of doing this, as you can buy kits which include the paper and everything to get started for around £20. (make sure you use a dust mask when doing this!)

Use some course paper first, around p80 to get most of the white stuff off, then work down the grades to the finest paper supplied with the palm sander, around p400 will do

This should leave you with a reasonably well keyed finish. sand out any rust patches as best as you can, then treat the area with a rust convertor solution (can be bought from mosat auto factors)

Skim the area with filler if required, leave to go off, then sand back smooth to the panel (again I'd use the palm sander for this)

if you have any bare metal, give it a few coats of high build primer. leave it for 5 or so hours, or is possible a day. then feather the primered area into the rest of the paintwork by hand using good quality wet or dry paper (i use it dry, as I dont like getting primed areas wet for reasons mentioned by others on here)

see pic below, dent has been filled, sanded back and feathered into the bodywork (note how the area around the repair has been sanded, so the paint has become dull and flat, this will give the primer something to key to)

As it is a cheap job, I wouldn't bother priming the whole car, just the areas which have gone back to bare metal or have bare filler. So long as the original paint is keyed, the new paint will stick to it.

The car should now be somewhere close to being ready to mask up (it is worth removing as many bits of trim, like door handles, number plate trims, rubber seals, lights etc, as it will be quicker to remove rather than mask them)

You now need to degrease the car (you can get products designed for this, but I generally use a universal spray degreaser. Wipe over the whole car using clean rags. finally go over the car which some tack rags, which will remove any dust, lint or any other general bits.

As a general rule you mix cellulose paint 50/50 with thinners (i use high gloss thinners and it flashes off quicker than std thinners and is well worth the extra outlay)

dust the car all over with a light coat (this is sometimes referred to as a grip coat and helps to avoid getting runs in the paint and will also help show up and bits of bad prep, high spots, low spots etc)

if you are happy you can start applying coats. i normally leave around ten mins between coats, but that is doing the odd panel or a set of wheels. on a whole car, but the time you have worked your way around it, you will probably be ok to spray another coat at the point where you started (i find it is usefull to spray all the edges, door shuts etc first, as they are areas were you would be otherwise likely to have thin areas of paint) build up 4 or 5 layers of paint, then leave the car for a few days. this will allow the paint to cure.

Dont worry if you get runs, or the finish looks a but orange pealy, or not as shiney as you were expecting. this can be rectified later!

The good thing about cellulose paint in plain gloss colours, is that you can wet sand the finish and polish it back up.

Having left the car for a good 5 days the paint should be hard enough that you can start wet sanding. get a bucket of water with some fairy liquid in it (helps to stop the paper clogging) use some quality wet or dry paper (used wet) start at around p800. Use a block with the paper, this will help sand the panel evenly. sand the panel till it looks flat and any signs of orange peal or runs have gone. if you sand to far and go through to the old paint or primer, you will need to remask areas, degrease and apply more coats of paint)

Once done the car will have a flat satin/matt finish (dont panic though!)

(Wing below was actually done using rattle cans, but illustrates the point ok)

Next step is to polish the finish up to a mirror shine. this can be done by hand or with use of a machine polisher (as a newbie I suggest you either do it by hand or use a random orbital dual action machine polisher, as you will most probably burn through the paint if you use a rotary polisher.

I use farcla g3 cutting compound to polish up the finish, but any brand of suitable paint cutting compound can be used, just follow the instructions on the tin.

once the car is up to the desired shine, leave it a month. dont wax it! there may still be solvent present in the paint, waxing, will trap it and the finsh will deteriorate.

after a month you can wax away

if none of the above has made any sense, then probably best you forget about diy painting your car

DISCLAIMER!!!!

THIS IS VERY MUCH A BASIC DIY GUIDE FOR GETTING A HALF REASONABLE JOB FOR NOT MUCH MONEY AND IN LESS THAN PERFECT CONDITIONS, WRITTEN BY SOMEONE WHO IS NOT PROFFESIONALLY TRAINED AND HAS PROBABLY FORGOTTEN TO MENTION THE ODD THING HERE AND THERE, BUT HAS PAINTED A FAIR AMOUNT OF PARTS, WITH A REASONABLE AMOUNT OF SUCCESS!

thnx for you are advise looks really good, I'm trying to get the paint and laqure now off a friend who works in the trade hopefully get it a bit cheaper :)