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Mk3 was match building a drc car

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From the MOT testers manual

"Hydraulic parking brakes as a sole means of operation are not acceptable on vehicles first used on or after 1 January 1968. However, they may be used to assist the application or release of a mechanical brake."

Reasons for failure

"For vehicles first used on or after 1 January 1968 the parking brake is not capable of being maintained in operation by direct mechanical action only."

Edited by nige8021

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  • gofasterpinch
    gofasterpinch

    you'll need to run the biggest MC possible, and it will be over biased to the rear even with the inline type bias valve (these valves only allow you to dial more pressure to the rear, not take it away

i think you will find a hydraulic handbrake on its own is a FAIL! you need the mechanical system as well in case of a fluid leak

  • Author

I'm doing that cable system as well but the bit that fits on the front which can be taken on and off, as my car will be kept road legal, but it'll only be driven on the roads to get back and forth to the race events,

There are changes being made to this as new cars such as the new Astra does not have a mechanical handbrake, they are electronic if that fails you are worse off where's the mechanical fail safe.

3 different mot testers could not answer that when I asked

i think you will find a hydraulic handbrake on its own is a FAIL! you need the mechanical system as well in case of a fluid leak

There is in some document, that I can't find at the moment, with wording something like "you can not leave a vehicle parked with only hydraulic pressure applied"

On my MK1 Mexico & Grp A Manta rally cars, I just left the cables connected to lever to please the tester, but the main force for the handbrake was hydraulic, they knew that, but it conformed to the wording of the testers manual ie it had a direct mechanical connection between the lever and the brakes It all comes down to the individual tester.

looks like solid work mate,

keep at it and build it for you.

you seem to be concentrating on the right things, which i never seem to do.

  • Author
i think you will find a hydraulic handbrake on its own is a FAIL! you need the mechanical system as well in case of a fluid leak

There is in some document, that I can't find at the moment, with wording something like "you can not leave a vehicle parked with only hydraulic pressure applied"

On my MK1 Mexico & Grp A Manta rally cars, I just left the cables connected to lever to please the tester, but the main force for the handbrake was hydraulic, they knew that, but it conformed to the wording of the testers manual ie it had a direct mechanical connection between the lever and the brakes It all comes down to the individual tester.

Yeah like urs that's what I'll be doing, but yeah as u say its all different between testers, but as I said my cars not bring built for road use it just needs the mot to be able to drive it to pod for race events,

Cheers mini mayhem, not been easy but getting there, all my brothers doing lol, he's just finished his second season, been crewing for him I just wanted to get behind the wheel for myself

the electromechanical handbrake IS a mechanical method. it uses a motor to turn a ballscrew - much like the lever on a normal rear caliper - and once its on - its on until a reverse voltage is applied. So it wont fail after it has been applied. the brake will be on, so how you came to the conclusion that your worse off with them has baffled me. you cant know how they work- i have a pair of audi A5 rear calipers and know this is the case.

good luck with the build- but do keep in mind your not just pleasing an MOT tester, Mr DVLA have a lovely habit of turning the local football team carpark into a testing zone where they scrutinise vehicles and take them away or fine you! dont run a risk you may regret!

I'm looking to run 2 levers- can you not do the same? have one on the passenger side and the hydro one in place of the normal lever

yeah that was my taking on this problem too there has to be a full mechanical method at least in the car at all times and this is why i haven't got round to sorting it properly I'm looking at a way to fit the cables to a hydro handbrake and it to have the ratcheting system to lock the hydro and cables

  • Author
the electromechanical handbrake IS a mechanical method. it uses a motor to turn a ballscrew - much like the lever on a normal rear caliper - and once its on - its on until a reverse voltage is applied. So it wont fail after it has been applied. the brake will be on, so how you came to the conclusion that your worse off with them has baffled me. you cant know how they work- i have a pair of audi A5 rear calipers and know this is the case.

good luck with the build- but do keep in mind your not just pleasing an MOT tester, Mr DVLA have a lovely habit of turning the local football team carpark into a testing zone where they scrutinise vehicles and take them away or fine you! dont run a risk you may regret!

I'm looking to run 2 levers- can you not do the same? have one on the passenger side and the hydro one in place of the normal lever

The handbrake is designed as an emergency brake, I've driven a few cars with the electrical brakes and never been able to apply whilst driving, yeah I understand what u say that the brake is on until the voltage is reversed but what do u do if you are hydro brakes fail whilst driving u can't apply the mechanical brake whilst in motion

And I'm not one of those sad little kids that plays with there cars in car parks/ retail parks, but as I said in previous posts I'm running that cable system that I linked to

I'm unsure on whether i would want it pressurised though when i leave the car for a period of time.

  • Author

But with me racing, when back in my place it'll be kept on stands with wheels off, and when at race meets it'll be front wheels off deck and wheels chocked so again brake won't be engaged

the electromechanical handbrake IS a mechanical method. it uses a motor to turn a ballscrew - much like the lever on a normal rear caliper - and once its on - its on until a reverse voltage is applied. So it wont fail after it has been applied. the brake will be on, so how you came to the conclusion that your worse off with them has baffled me. you cant know how they work- i have a pair of audi A5 rear calipers and know this is the case.

good luck with the build- but do keep in mind your not just pleasing an MOT tester, Mr DVLA have a lovely habit of turning the local football team carpark into a testing zone where they scrutinise vehicles and take them away or fine you! dont run a risk you may regret!

I'm looking to run 2 levers- can you not do the same? have one on the passenger side and the hydro one in place of the normal lever

The handbrake is designed as an emergency brake, I've driven a few cars with the electrical brakes and never been able to apply whilst driving, yeah I understand what u say that the brake is on until the voltage is reversed but what do u do if you are hydro brakes fail whilst driving u can't apply the mechanical brake whilst in motion

And I'm not one of those sad little kids that plays with there cars in car parks/ retail parks, but as I said in previous posts I'm running that cable system that I linked to

have you changed the subject here? I'm not saying what its for - I'm talking about the MOT test it has to pass and its a road legal requirement, telling me that its designed as an emergency brake and whether you are or aren't a sad kid playing in a carpark doesn't come into it. there's a set of rules to follow - our replies aren't aimed at stopping you in what your doing, just helping you stay legal

But with me racing, when back in my place it'll be kept on stands with wheels off, and when at race meets it'll be front wheels off deck and wheels chocked so again brake won't be engaged

i was think out loud with that - i was refering to myself with that. i would be leaving my car outside for 10hrs at a time, and wonder if it would eventually lead to premiture fails of seals

  • Author

Well yeah I see you are point and I don't know mate

i miss read what u said about car parks kiz sorry, i know what u mean

back to topic of the build thread

Edited by Big_age2807

no worries, easily done.

i was refering to the DVLA using the Ricoh arena car park in my home city to pull random vehicles into where a full VOSA testing station has been setup to test your vehicle - theres no friendly "it will be alright mate - got an mot" when they get you.

Back to thread -

So are there plans for a rollcage? you mension your single seat and plans to pod it , is it going to be a Quarter mile drag slag or something for the twistys aswell?

  • Author

No cage yet, I'm competing in the vwdrc, we have 5 races meets at pod and 2 at shakey, we don't need a cage until we run quicker than 12.99

It's not heads up racing either its bracket so doesn't mean u have to have the fastest car to win its all about dial in times and getting as close to as u can without going quicker

The engine that in it now is just to get me started planning on changing it after the first or second season, then it'll be caged, but those plans are a distant thought lol

i have essentially that exact hydraulic handbrake, with 0.625 cylinder in mine with mk4 golf calipers on the back.

i mounted it on the passenger side of the tunnel, i had to retain a cable setup too as per MSA regs, so i left the standard handbrake in

IMG_3027.jpg

which coupled to the disc setup means i can assume ridiculous angles much like this

IMG_3397.jpg

:)

that looks superb pinch!

The handbrake is designed as an emergency brake, I've driven a few cars with the electrical brakes and never been able to apply whilst driving, yeah I understand what u say that the brake is on until the voltage is reversed but what do u do if you are hydro brakes fail whilst driving u can't apply the mechanical brake whilst in motion

You normally have to pull and hold the button/lever to force them to apply on the move - but it'll depend on the braking circuit implementation. Often doing that won't apply the electric park brake, but the normal hydraulic foundation brakes themselves - as that way the ABS can modulate the application pressure to avoid just locking the wheels.

  • Author
i have essentially that exact hydraulic handbrake, with 0.625 cylinder in mine with mk4 golf calipers on the back.

i mounted it on the passenger side of the tunnel, i had to retain a cable setup too as per MSA regs, so i left the standard handbrake in

:)

Look similar ill have to check the blue book on that as my regs might be different, a lot of the guys racing at the mo only have the hydraulic

Yeah I'm on mk4 golf callipers too, was it easy enough running the lines I've not started doing mine yet

yeah i have prepared this diagram of how you plumb it all in, if you have a bias valve, it just goes in series before the handbrake.

brakesystemdiag.jpg

i made entirely new lines, completely braided goodridge from from front to back.

IMG_3026.jpg

IMG_3035.jpg

  • Author

you are a star mate that'll be a great help cheers

The lines is that just universal braided until the points where they connect to the callipers?

Edited by Big_age2807

yeah you need m12x1 banjo bolts for the calipers

  • Author

Ok cheers, will just need to match for the fronts, as running Vauxhall cav callipers, but think I've got the banjo on them already is will just match and renew them,

Just awaiting for the sus to turn up then its all go to get it all on

Same as how I've done mine but without the expensive lines Pinches :D

Rear is on a T piece on the rear bench.

looking at master cylinder in engine bay (22mm raddo M/C) , front left blanked, rear left is drivers side front, front right passengers front, rear right, split rear.

From master cylinder, bias valve next to gearstick/selector, hydro non locking brake then split rear. Bias valve before the hydro brake :D retained handbrake for legalities

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