hey.

theres no real guide on this, so heres a couple pics for you all.

if you need a bit more ground clearance on a 6n engine, you can fit a late mk2/mk3 sump and oil pickup. (if the 6n is a chain driven oil pump)

i changed mine over last night, didnt take long.

1. drain oil from engines and remove sumps

the 6n engine will now look like this :

2. remove the oil pickup pipe. this is held on by four 5mm allen keys, and there is a bracket which is two 10mm bolts

3. this is what the two pickups look like side by side.

left= 6N right= MK2/3

4. install early pickup onto the 6N engine the same way you took the old one off. it will now look like this (i hadnt fitted the bracket yet for this pic)

it pays to check that the pickup is all clean and healthy looking before installing.

5. as you can see, the dipstick tube is too long. remove this as you need to fit the mk2/3 item INCLUDING the dipstick itself.. this is the difference in length

silver= mk2/3 black=6N

6. fit mk2/3 dipstick tube and dipstick onto 6N engine. it will now look like this

7. fit mk2/3 sump. all but 2 bolts near the flywheel will go in. i cleaned up the surfaces and then smeared the sump face with instant gasket to seal it. dont use too much. only a light smear.

8. measure 3.5 litres of oil and fill engine with it. leave to settle for 10-20 mins and then check the dipstick. it should be withing the max/min marks but if not then you could remark it yourself.

enjoy ground clearance!

eric

Edited 19 August, 201214 yr by erixtar1992

Some may see this as common sense, but it maybe worth adding to ensure that the oil pickup going in is clean and free from horrible gungy oily residue.

Also pays to have a look at the surface of the mk3 pickup is good condition as that is the end of the oil pump - too much wear will put the pumps axial clearance out of spec.

You can also check the pumps chain tension whilst the sumps off.

& use the mk2/3 dipstick with that tube too, not just the tube :)

yeah i used the mk2 dipstick with the tube. will edit my post. cheers nickoooooo!

feel free to add any more info people and i will update the first post to include it.

Edited 19 August, 201214 yr by erixtar1992

When doing this to a 16v you will find the bit of the dipstick tube that bolts to the head will no longer bolt up to the different shaped head without modification. I chopped and welded the bracket to suit

I'll be doing this to a late (direct drive) pumped block soon so i'll add to this then with info on that too

It's been a couple of years now but I thought it was just one hole that didn't line up?

Edited 19 August, 201214 yr by Mclovin

They do line up by the flywheel, there should be cutouts in the back of it to get to them also.

And guy yeah, I had one hole, that was about half a hole out, that was all.

Good point about the bracket too, mines attached to my one that holds the carbs to my engine.

This ia a good mod, theres a good 2-2.5'' difference in the sump height, however this puts it closer to the crank, and youll have less air around the sump.

But has been done many times and is better than ruining your sump, I'm not that low and wouldnt be happy having my sump much lower, expecially as exposed as it is in a mk2/3 without a subframe

Only the early flywheels have the cut outs nick, the 6n one hasn't. You can still get the bolts in using a ball ended Allen key or the correct tool from vw (some one told me this was just a posh version of a ball ended allen key). It can be very fiddley to get these in when trying to do it with the engine in the car and you lying under it tho

It's also worth mentioning that if you are for some reason doing this with the engine in place, one of the sump bolts is hiding behind the drive shaft flange and is a pain in the arse to get too. I had to use a cut down Allen key to get in between the bolt and the output flange, the bolt will undo almost all of the way before meeting the flange and not coming out any more (its frustratingly close to coming out). I skimmed a little bit off the cv cup where it was hitting to allow it to slide out. The beauty of this is once modified the car is setup to have the sump removed in situ when ever you need to, very handy if you run very low and have a tendency to crack sumps

Edited 19 August, 201214 yr by Mclovin

maybe not cutouts, has some form of indents though so you can get to them, remember seeing them on mine lol.

saying that mine maybe easier as its missing half of it due to being lightened

yes the 6n sump has 2 indents, but as I'm using the mk2 bolts rather than allen keys, (6n lump didnt come with them) i cant really get to them. so i my have to leave them out. do either of you think thatl be a problem?

You mean flywheel Eric?

Yeah 6n has little indents but the early ones have two proper cut outs in the flywheel that give proper access to the two bolts and make getting to the bolts nice and easy. Not sure what spare flywheels I have knocking about but i'll see if I have one of each to get some photos for reference

Edited 19 August, 201214 yr by Mclovin

Eric take the flywheel off? Lol, they put the bolts there for a reason, I'd prefer you fit them.

Yes flywheel haha. Il get a pic while i have 2 engines sitting here lol

Eric take the flywheel off? Lol, they put the bolts there for a reason, I'd prefer you fit them.

Nah dont wanna remove the clutch, too much effort. Ill try and get them in but dno how yet.

It's 6 bolts to remove the clutch?

Don't you wanna check the condition of the clutch before fitting it?

Nar mint lol

Total pikey.. haha

Is my 1997 AFH Lump an early model?

If u take the sump off ull find out :)

.... ima check wikipedia might know...

So this pickup and sump combo is on any mk2/3 standard engine?

Just wanna clarify. :)

it needs to be from a later mk2 or a mk3 engine. the ones with 3 bolts on the top

it is also possible shorten the later AFH type pickup, with a bit of cutting, Lots of measuring and spot of brazing.

and run an AAV etc sump with the allen head bolts,

there are slots in the AFH flywheel for acess to the bolts behing it, just keep turning it until they come round.

Could you just cut the dipstick an inch?

it is also possible shorten the later AFH type pickup, with a bit of cutting, Lots of measuring and spot of brazing.

and run an AAV etc sump with the allen head bolts,

there are slots in the AFH flywheel for acess to the bolts behing it, just keep turning it until they come round.

I chopped 3cm out of mine and welded it back together

same

Sweet got all the parts just about to cut and weld the pickup back together....

So 3cm is the amount?

Has anyone that has done this just confirm that it's the right mount? It's picking up alright?

Cheers for all the help guys.

Edit, just read this... http://www.clubpolo.co.uk/forum/index.php?...=Sump&st=25

So I need it sat at roughly 117mm to the bottom. Cheers for the help lads

Edited 22 December, 201213 yr by Sonny1day