Just got my new lead and when i connect to my polo 6kv polo estate 1999 i can only detect the immobiliser witch does show faults but need a full version to view more details and using KKL 409.1 lead and 409.1 vag-com.

Car will not start currently the fuel pump does not prime but will diagnose this tomorrow but i have been playing around with the fuse box checking the k-line was connected correctly and it is so may of disconnected something what should i check here?

would the fuel pump still prime if ECU was dead?

is vag-com detecting the ECU?

I do get faults from the immobilizer something to do with the transponder coil but car was working before i started checking the k-line

any ideas?

Best bet is to get the propper copy of vcds and the propper ross tech lead

We tried an ebay one with my car then tried the rosstech with my car.

The diffrences where very noticable speed wise , then you have the full software support, Ross tech will allow you more accsess and more functionality

For example: yesterday i read my airbag controller using rosstech lead.

Picked the controller straight up , cleared the code in seconds and re scanned.

- Tried the ebay lead after , as far as you can go is connecting to the controller.... eventualy

Edited 21 August, 201214 yr by mpsheen

Same as above,my rosstech lead is much better with speed and communication. Fuel pump priming issue could be an immobiliser issue as it sounds like there may be a problem with the reader coil?

from my research the immobiliser does not stop the pump priming it will allow the engine to start but will cut the engine strait away?

Best bet is to get the propper copy of vcds and the propper ross tech lead

Cheaper to by a new car! if you cant help don't bother! and my leads and software are fine!

Edited 21 August, 201214 yr by cheddarcheese

Yeah, I've never had a problem with the eGay lead anyway, seems fine! Always cleared everything, can see all the codes.

The immob should cut it out after a second or two!

Possibly the relay? Atleast on the 6n2, if you pull the relay out when the ignition is on, and plug it back in, the pump will prime for 4 seconds. Pull it out, and put it back in, another 4 seconds.

You can bridge it out though, at the relay..

yea relay was going to be the first thing to check but its pissing it down outside

from my research the immobiliser does not stop the pump priming it will allow the engine to start but will cut the engine strait away?

Best bet is to get the propper copy of vcds and the propper ross tech lead

Was just a suggestion as I have tested both and found that the eBay ones lack functionality maybe not in older cars? Who knows? Suppose its fine if you can read and clear from the controllers you need to access.

In this case , I’ll leave you too it since I'm being no help and your eBay lead is working to you needs.

Was a 2002 polo i had issues with the ebay lead.

My old valver , i cant recall having any issues with that with the ebay lead

Cheaper to by a new car! if you cant help don't bother! and my leads and software are fine!

Looking around you can pick them up from £200 / £300

Well worth it in my opinion if you have 3/4 volkwagens in the family or even just the one car. as its been used on a 2006 golf , 2005 passat and my 2002 polo. which required newer software for our needs.

and paid for its self the first time we used it, garages charge far too much. Again , if its all working well with an older car , fairplay!

Edited 21 August, 201214 yr by mpsheen

yea a bit off topic mate but your are correct a proper vag lead would be worth it if i had a car worth $2000+ but the ebay leads work fine with most cars up to 2000 and my car alone cost 250 with mot and tax

Edited 22 August, 201214 yr by cheddarcheese

there is a way of tricking the 409 version into thinking its a legit copy- i do this to have full functionality- as i dont want to breach copyright by telling you- have a quick search on google matey.

^ As above. Requires a little script and a timer.

I dont do any thing with out researching first :)

But one thing i thought of last night was that i can detect my immobilizer with the ignition on or off???? but no ecu detection at all.

ordered a new lead some nice person nicked mine out of my car wankers cant leave any thing unlocked nowadays lol they didnt even take the headunit that was sat in the footwell lol

Edited 22 August, 201214 yr by cheddarcheese

Getting a tricked version compatible with standard windows 7 can be tricky,most were for xp.Should be ok if your running windows 7 proffesional though as it can run in xp mode.

I use the free ross tech lite version now,cant do adaptations but can read and clear faults and see running values ect.

Also you sometimes need to select an available port in your computer for the usb lead or it wont find anything

ross tech site gives more info on that.

Getting a tricked version compatible with standard windows 7 can be tricky,most were for xp.Should be ok if your running windows 7 proffesional though as it can run in xp mode.

I use the free ross tech lite version now,cant do adaptations but can read and clear faults and see running values ect.

Also you sometimes need to select an available port in your computer for the usb lead or it wont find anything

ross tech site gives more info on that.

My cable works fine mate whats with all the unhelpful reply's regarding software i dont have a software problem or cable problem i have other issues like why can i detect my immobilizer with the ignition on or off?? when its meant to be only when the ignition is on not off?? and why cant i detect my ecu?

Does the fuel pump also work off the ecu is that why my pumps not priming could the ecu be dead?? and no its not the immobilizer stopping the fuel pump priming!! any ideas?

Edited 22 August, 201214 yr by cheddarcheese

ok cool.

just checked the fuel pump relay bridged the connection and i can hear the pump but it keeps pumping maybe I'm low on fuel aswell unless this is what happens when you bridge it? i recon the ecu is dead??

unhelpful replies??? seriously?

People are trying to help you out with ideas of what it could be,if you feel right to dismiss them then fair enough.Atleast be gratefull that someone has used there time trying to help you out ffs..

Also you may have started the thread but futher down the line someone with related problems could search and stumble across it,so things you dismiss could be there solution.

edited.. hope you resolve the problem

Edited 22 August, 201214 yr by bozz

He's trying to get to the bottom of this, his head is not up his arse. If the lead can detect some ECU's of the car (airbag/abs/etc) then it's NOT a software fault, and the port on the com is okay, it's seems like it something to do with the vag-com itself.

Are all the k-lines not tied together though, so that if there's a break in the k-line then the ECU can't be detected by vag-com?

Sounds like either the ECU is dead, or there's a break in the k-line.

But I thought that the relay made the pump prime, and then when the immob worked, the ECU sent a signal to ground the pump out; so I'm not convinced that it's a dead ECU.

He's trying to get to the bottom of this, his head is not up his arse. If the lead can detect some ECU's of the car (airbag/abs/etc) then it's NOT a software fault, and the port on the com is okay, it's seems like it something to do with the vag-com itself.

Are all the k-lines not tied together though, so that if there's a break in the k-line then the ECU can't be detected by vag-com?

Sounds like either the ECU is dead, or there's a break in the k-line.

But I thought that the relay made the pump prime, and then when the immob worked, the ECU sent a signal to ground the pump out; so I'm not convinced that it's a dead ECU.

cheers

hmm from my research every one has said if the immobilizer is stoping the car from starting then the car will still start but die to 2 secs latter thats how the immobilizer works on the polo of this age..

I also tried starting the car with the relay bridged and still no start so got a spare spark plug pulled one of the leads and no spark ever me think ecu or ecu is not activating any one no the pins that activate the ecu so i can check voltages?

Edited 22 August, 201214 yr by cheddarcheese

Yeah, the car will start and then cut out, no-one knew if it took out spark or fuel..

But the relay should prime, remind me tomorrow and I'll take my ECU off and see if it still primes!

Something has happened to stop this though, you said you were checking the k-line, what did you actually do? I'm thinking you need to see the faults in the ECU first; it needs to see RPM to have spark if the 6KV was crank sensor.

I think where've you messed around (shifting wires) has maybe moved something other than the k-line.

I don't know what else the ECU uses the k-line for? Some form of communication for the immob, maybe?

Yeah, the car will start and then cut out, no-one knew if it took out spark or fuel..

But the relay should prime, remind me tomorrow and I'll take my ECU off and see if it still primes!

Something has happened to stop this though, you said you were checking the k-line, what did you actually do? I'm thinking you need to see the faults in the ECU first; it needs to see RPM to have spark if the 6KV was crank sensor.

well i checked the junction box for the obd port and just traced the wires and checked the connections moving the fuse box around to get to the wires tight as a nuns nice person. is there a order that the 3 plugs that go in to the junction box need to be in?

got the fuel pump priming today removed the ecu and gave the connections a clean and the fuel now primes but still not start?