Budget £1200 for custom rods and pistons and you won't go far wrong. A couple of forged 1.6 16v lumps have been done, one was a red 6N2 GTI owned by a lad at GwentVW, so might be worth ringing them?

I think on this kind of project you either go full custom, or re-engineer standard parts if you can keep the costs down. The problem I see with the latter approach is you won't know the full spec/capabilities of the parts you're using, so there might be some parts failures to deal with - but maybe that's part of the fun.

Any idea on internal specs, or was it standard?

How did it run on G40 management Andy, and is the chip sufficiently mappable for more boost on an AEA/AEE

Edit: took too long writing that reply. I'm talking about the Lupo from your previous post there

Edited 17 October, 201213 yr by prankstar2003

I'd thought about £1000 would be needed for off the shelf pistons/rods, £1200 for custom sounds reasonable IMO.

£1500 for pistons/rods/ARP rod bolts hmm!

Hurry up and do it.

Do you need arp bolts and forged rods? What sort of psi are you planning on running? Although probably different, it took yoof silly boost to neck his standard (iirc) con rod big end bolts

Just whilst it's apart it seems stupid not to upgrade them? They're only around £90, a new set of standard ones is over £30 iirc.

And If it's strong, may end up with like 25 pounds of boost so

6n con rod bolts don't look the strongest tbh, seems silly to forge the bottom end but not upgrade the only thing keeping the forged shit connected to the rest of the engine

Also G40 rods are totally different to the rods in later small block engines, the 6n rods I've played around with were very long and thin, I couldn't imagine them taking big amounts of boost

Hence the point in this thread haha!

The later engines arnt so strong! G40 is designed for boost standard.

Will be very low boost on standard internals, which is easy and cheap but boring and slow, or forged and bare boost y0

I thought you'd decided to use 20vT con rods, won't these be strong enough for boost?

Any idea on internal specs, or was it standard?

How did it run on G40 management Andy, and is the chip sufficiently mappable for more boost on an AEA/AEE

Edit: took too long writing that reply. I'm talking about the Lupo from your previous post there

Am on holiday at mo, so can't check my mapping notes but fairly sure it was spacer plate to lower compression but otherwise stock. I mapped it rich on full throttle to give the pistons a fighting chance, prob had more power by leaning it out, not that I'd want to risk it.

G40 management is quite adaptable to AEE/AEA, after all it's a very similar engine design to the G40 architecturally. Modifying the head for a G40 inlet manifold (or cut and shutting two inlets) is probably the hardest bit. It's a lot of dicking around (and expense) though to get approx 150-160bhp. Better off fitting K03 and G40 management to an AAV and running a bar of boost IMO, it's cheaper and will make more like 165-170bhp. And if it shits itself another engine is a straight swap.

I havnt decided on anything Simon. I am gathering information.

I don't want to do a G conversion, it may work but it's just too easy and common, which IMO is boring

I'm really interested in this, as its something I had considered, but due to evans.i experience, have been put off. So I'm watching this closely, and am happy to help where I can, I have a load of bits which may come in helpful for measuring, mocking up etc.

Andy, why do you have to use the g40 inlet, would it not be possible to use the AEE MPI inlet and use a plate to mount the g40 TB, or even use the AEE MPI TB (AEA is an SPI unit)?

I made this thread to discuss internals, not the easy bolt on shit

Its surely going to be useful though Nick. Or would you rather I started a new thread?

Anyway, hows about Audi rods/pistons. 2.3 20v S2 rods are H-beam in design so nice and strong. Or other Audi engines? I'm not sure at which point the Audi/VW engines started using the same parts

Custom forged bits for that amount of money sounds ideal.

76.5mm pistons, 20mm little ends, forged 144mm rods to suit.

Use pistons to drop the comp to around 9:1...

Quick glaze bust, new main shells + big ends to go with the new rods..probably have to get crank repolished?

May aswel use ARP head bolts also, plenum, reservoir off inlet tracts for a map sensor/vacuum port...

Jobs a good'un

Do you know what height pistons you need and where the gudgeon pin needs to be in relation to the top of the piston?

Not measured anything.

Does anyone know the measurement of the crank pin on an AEE/AEA crank?

Edited 17 October, 201213 yr by prankstar2003

Hi

anyone got a buy it now link for pistons and rods???? cash waiting haha!

you can buy my boost ready afh for a grand

can you remove 8 valves?

you sure can mate dont think it will work so well without them

to be serious though why dont you buy Kizs 1W engine thats fully boost ready and forged be less than the rods and pistons your looking for and its around 1.6 too

http://www.clubpolo.co.uk/forum/index.php?showtopic=296783

Speak to WL Motorsport (or KWL, I forget) they used to offer pistons/rods for all sorts of Polo motors, 1.3 16v, 1.6 8v etc don't think they're easy to get hold of though.

Accralite are very good and really helpful over the phone/e-mail I've got a few sets of 1341cc pistons with no problems (apart from the one I put a rod through), and have used them for work when the machined some forgings for us to our specs, they'll do most stuff for £600/5 pistons. If you give them dimensions they've usually got a blank that with some minor alterations will match what you need.

Worth thinking about exhaust valves and guide material too, not sure how good AEE stock stuff is.

I don't need to tell you if you seriously boost an AEE you'll break gearboxes, CV joints, driveshafts, your chassis...

Worth considering (before you start) some of the trickier things:

Management - I'd personally go with G40 stuff, but I know you bum carbs, not sure if megajolt can be configured to be MAP vs SA vs rpm ? or is it just alpha-n?

Provision on block for knock sensor (even if not required for ECU, they're very good when setting up)

Oil pump- you'll have an extra load on the oil system in either a charger or turbo, worth checking pump specs vs a stock G40 one

Block strength- compare a stock 1.3 to a PY blocks, there's some very subtle webbing alterations between them, this is for a reason. I'd not fancy doing DIY R&D on £1500 worth of forged internals (Although I currently am) so might be worth considering a block ladder bar.

Head bolt clamping load- G40 use a higher tensile rating fixing, meaning for a given torque input there's a larger clamping load on a 12.9 fastner than a 10.9, the 10.9 bolt is £1 each the genuine 12.9 are £7 each- worth either going to ARP stud/nut £150ish/set or a stronger OEM bolt

Headgasket should be fine, I use an AEE metal one

I've got enough parts to build another 1341cc motor if you change your mind.

Will speak to them and see what they can offer, need to measure some shit up etc first though!

I was actually thinking about building a bigger valved head if there's enough room, the AEE ones are tiny! Would keep a single angle seat then too as apposed to the 3 angled ones I have at the minute, sodium filled valves are available circa £20-30 each I think also.

Would just like to try it with carbs tbh, half tempted to buy another AEE, stick a Decomp plate in and see where it gets me before building a proper engine like.

There is a provision in the block already tapped as a 6n has a knock sensor standard, half way down the block between cyl 2/3.

Megajolt allows a MAP sensor, as can be used on boosted applications.

Shafts/joints could be sorted fairly easily, or at least something tougher that will last a bit longer.

Gearbox is a big issue, unless there's a way of mounting a different type box with an adaptor plate or something.

Wouldn't even hesitate in getting some ARP head bolts, seems a no brainer tbh!

Gearbox options are limited...

Adaptor plate to fit 02x series 'box was available from Sorg Motorsport back in the day for something like €900. Plus you've then got to chop the chassis up to fit an 02a or similar in there and get custom driveshafts made. By the time you've done that, you may as well have saved your AEE forged build funds and the €900 and just put a 20v lump in there anyway! More power, more reliability, less cost and the same chassis choppage.

Alternatively you start looking at motorsport 'boxes. These tend to be £5k+ for anything interesting, but generally are torque limited still (designed for high revving rally applications, not boosted torque monsters!) and have very low ratios (high revving rally applications again!) - so you'd need to consider something custom from one of those suppliers. By that stage you're getting on for spending the thick end of £10k on a gearbox for a shit old Polo.

This is why I've not pushed for more power out of my motor. I found circa ~185bhp with a G-lader driven hard killed 'boxes regularly enough, but ~200bhp from a K03 with its smoother delivery is much kinder and so far so good. Yoof's pushed things, and found rods are needed much beyond this and also something transmission-wise too having killed two 'boxes in quick succession. If I was to chase any more power the cheapest thing to do long-term would be to fit a 20v motor and 'box...

For sure building a forged boosted AEE would be an interesting project, and should make good dyno numbers. But it's all a bit pointless if it's broken most of the time, or you can't use all the power for fear of breaking stuff! Solve the gearbox issue though, and big power small block Polo tuning can take another step forward.