Hi all just in the middle of getting all my bits together to build my hybrid, jot all the engine parts just need the over the counter bits.

My plan is to put the avy internals in my afh block, my question is i plan to buy new piston rings, big end bearings, main bearings and all new bolts and stuff, shall i buy the piston rings, and main bearings for the afh or for the avy or are they the same and one more question shall i keep the crank caps from the afh block with the afh or use the avy ones in the afh block cheers. Nick

All help and info is very appreciated cheers Nick.

You will want shells/rings to suit the AVY bits.

The way iv understood it is fit the crank/rods/pistons from the 1.6 to the AFH.

You can use AFH pistons but they make the compression ratio over 12:1.

Worth adding the conrod bolts are single use. So you'll need new ones.

Don't take this info as gospel as its just what iv understood from browsing on here.

rings and shells are the same. keep the cups with the engine they are from and keep them in the correct order they came off

You can just whack the afh head onto an avy block and time it up the same as an afh

cheers for the feedback guys, iv'e read lots of info on here from lots of members which has been a great help just working out the bits i couldn't find.

I know the the big end bolts are stretch type bolts but can i re-use the crank cap bolts or do i need to replace them as well.

I just rather put it all in the afh block to save the the hassle of head bolts and drilling or modding the tensioner, and if i decide to sell it, it stops headache for the next owner when it comes to servicing.

x2, I'm following the same route, also because I'm not convinced a drilled tensioner is a good idea.

With with Nick on this one too (Harris), my understanding was you just put the entire bottom end from the AVY into it:

Crank, pistons, rods.

New rings if you're going to lightly hone the AFH walls; new shells for the AVY crank, since that's the crank going in. Although I'm sure they're the same - VW dropped loads so one bearing fits all the small block cranks.

The only advantage the AVY block has is oil-squirters.

The cap bolts aren't stretch, so you can keep them.

Remember the crank pulley is different; according to Mikey.

I'm gonna do this in the spring/summer when it gets a bit warmer. I've got a crank and pistons sitting there..

If u use the afh pistons for higher compression ratio, surely itd make more power though?

If u use the afh pistons for higher compression ratio, surely itd make more power though?

In theory it will have a higher thermal efficiency, and hopefully create more power. But you can over do it and induce knock/high cylinder temps.

True, seemed to work alright for mikey though.

We need to get a couple different versions of this hybrid on a rolling road together and see the difference!

Modern engines run high comp ratios anyway.

But they don't have a mk2 dizzy strapped to them

True, seemed to work alright for mikey though.

We need to get a couple different versions of this hybrid on a rolling road together and see the difference!

And a boosted version on there too, that should produce some horses.

Unsure on on what though eaton or garrett?

Unsure on on what though eaton or garrett?

Rotrex

The AVY pistols still give a high 11.5:1 ratio and I never got more power from going higher as far as I could tell.

All the internal wear parts are the same/compatible but for the piston rings which can differ depending on year, so ensure they match.

Unsure on on what though eaton or garrett?

Rotrex

Is that the manufacturer of the g40 and g60 chargers?

Unsure on on what though eaton or garrett?

Rotrex

Is that the manufacturer of the g40 and g60 chargers?

Nope. That would be G-lader

The Rotrex is basically a turbocharger powered directly by a belt. So it's a supercharger that looks like an electric turbo.. But works.

G-Lader is very similar in principal. These use a fan instead of the twin scroll supercharger design you usually see, such as the Eaton.

Rotrex the style that people use on boosted vr6 engines?

True, seemed to work alright for mikey though.

We need to get a couple different versions of this hybrid on a rolling road together and see the difference!

And a boosted version on there too, that should produce some horses.

Unsure on on what though eaton or garrett?

eaton

The Rotrex is basically a turbocharger powered directly by a belt. So it's a supercharger that looks like an electric turbo.. But works.

G-Lader is very similar in principal. These use a fan instead of the twin scroll supercharger design you usually see, such as the Eaton.

Fan? G-lader chargers are a scroll type dude....

x2, I'm following the same route, also because I'm not convinced a drilled tensioner is a good idea.

Why would that be? The drilled part is not only hardened but also chunky as fuck, your not gonna weaken one of those to anywhere near the point of failure by drilling a bit of material out of the center of it. Not that it should make a lot of difference but you're also using a stronger bolt to hole it to the block so its taking a little with one hand, and giving it back with the other

Drilling the tensioner is the way forward, bolt on afh head, get free oil squirters :)

Did one not fail though?

Only one I've heard of failing wasn't drilled, saf had a piece of threaded bar turned down so it was the size to thread into the block at one end and the size of the hole in the relay the other end. I believe the bar had the tensile strength of chewing gum or something because it lived a very short life

Never heard of any issues with drilling other than finding somewhere that can drill it

I'm going to use the whole of the bottom end of an AVY with the head bolt holes drilled out to M11 so that I can use the AFH head bolts and also the pulley drilled out. It means its the bottom end is as standard as possible and I don't have to worry about if I have an early or late AFH engine.

Edited 8 November, 201213 yr by mark_crox
M11 Bolts not M10

I'm getting my head bolt holes drilled to m10 as well, its been fine using the avy head bolts but not sure how they will hold out under boost being so piss thin, plus torquing them up while trying to keep them center wasn't a very nice job

It's more for piece of mind more than anything