Tbh all I did was:

Remove inline pump & accumulator.

Joined the return line where accum was.

Joined the feed line where pump was.

Fitted pump to inner wing.

Wired with ignition feed/relay/separate isolator switch/inertia switch

Right sorry I'm being abit slow here , so I take the intank pump has one hose that goes to the inline pump , then the inline pump has one hose which goes to a yellow plastic housing , which has two fuel lines which are the in and out on the throttle body ? And I now understand a swill pot is just like a filter king ? So I would do in tank pump to a swill pot which is like another small petrol tank in a sense , then this to bike pump , bike pump to the yellow housing that splits into two fuel lines for the in and out on the throttle ? Which will be carbs obvs

mark so with the accelerator cable, did you use a standard cable and just drill a hole in the bulk head so it had a straight route to the throttle ?

and harris i posted the previous rely as you posted yours, am a correct ?

mark so with the accelerator cable, did you use a standard cable and just drill a hole in the bulk head so it had a straight route to the throttle ?

I used a Teflon coated gear cable and outer from Halfords. And yep I made a hole in the bulkhead right above the correct connection point for the accelerator pedal.

mark so with the accelerator cable, did you use a standard cable and just drill a hole in the bulk head so it had a straight route to the throttle ?

I used a Teflon coated gear cable and outer from Halfords. And yep I made a hole in the bulkhead right above the correct connection point for the accelerator pedal.

so did you need to do some soldering ?

mark so with the accelerator cable, did you use a standard cable and just drill a hole in the bulk head so it had a straight route to the throttle ?

I used a Teflon coated gear cable and outer from Halfords. And yep I made a hole in the bulkhead right above the correct connection point for the accelerator pedal.

so did you need to do some soldering ?

Nope... just use a solder-less nipple after putting the cable through the throttle pedal.

found this on internet, I've seen the page on cleaning carbs before, but not the rest of it.

http://www.totalvauxhall.co.uk/files/2010/...4BIKECARBS1.pdf

Tbh all I did was:

Remove inline pump & accumulator.

Joined the return line where accum was.

Joined the feed line where pump was.

Fitted pump to inner wing.

Wired with ignition feed/relay/separate isolator switch/inertia switch

with wiring the fuel pump, cant i just cut the loom connector off the plug that attaches onto the factory inline pump, and cut the plug off the the fuel pump wire and spade connect them so I'm using the original loom , and not putting a live feed to the battery and an earth to some were on the car?

Could do but ud have to retain all the origonal inj loom and there's not much point ..

SO simple to make a new loom .. Bin off everything assosiated with ecu .. there's only one plug u keep and that has 3/4 wires to keep. Fuel guage, Temp and Oil senders ..

Then just the case of putting a relay in with power to coil and fuel pump of choice...

Then the relay is switched on via ignition live which is with in the headlight loom ..

On the mk3 i think its the thicker black wire which is on the rectifier ( next to rev feed wire/red and black ).

Yeah nick .. never gets short of fuel eg starvin marvin in me carbings ..

But pump just has to work harder when fuel runs low .. I run it lower than i should tbf but never splutters etc :)

Carbs will work for quite a while on just the fuel in the bowls. So shouldn't splutter at all from a intermittant fuel flow.

As for how high pumps are mounted. A one way check valve before the pump means height becomes largely irrelevant, as it stops the fuel draining back to the tank, meaning the pump doesn't have to suck air through first to syphon the fuel up.

Think i should get one tbf ...

so i think i have come too, remove the in line pump and put a filter king in its place ? then in the engine bay add the bike pump onto the in fuel hose to feed my carbs, wire my pump in add an inertia switch, and what shall i do with the fuel hose that was the return ?

Also because i have a mk2 tank, could i just remove my intank pump, ad a mk2 mechanical one, use the two inlets on the bottom of the tank, join them both with a t piece, so i have one fuel line, feed it to my bike pump, then my carbs ?

I'd suggest running a t piece with a return back to the tank.

Then should the pump for any reason not self regulate (this has happened to me before) it'll stop fuel pissing out of the carbs into a warm engine bay. It catches fire easily (yes, it happened to me).

So you'd have mk2 tank, clear hose is the feed, bluey one the return. Put the feed into a facet/bike pump then into a t piece. Have the straight t going to the carbs then use the 90 degree bit off the t as a return back down the standard fuel line. No need for a pressure regulator.

It's a proven, well trodden route that works.

Also, everything you've asked here is covered quite comprehensively in the FAQ thread. People will soon get fed up of answering questions already answered countless times on the forum.

Yes I know , like I put previously though , 800 odd comments , and it has been hi jacked with pointless banter , here needs to be a 1 or 2 page definitive guide with pictures in the faq , step by step on how to fit carbs with a bike pump and all mk2 bits .

Ok like this , it just confuses me that fuel feed and return go down one hose then split off . The hose is 10 mm isn't it , will get me a t piece , remove the old inline pump and join them up . Will order hose too .Just need to sort the choke cable .....

if you are using a bike pump then you don't need the Tpeice or return. As the fuel pump will cut out when it need to.

I'm lost.

Did you say you want to run a glass filterking regulator and a bike pump

if you are using a bike pump then you don't need the Tpeice or return. As the fuel pump will cut out when it need to.

I've tried using a bike pump (admittedly not on a polo) and it wasn't shutting off. The way the carbs are on a car compared to a bike apparently mean that they can work at alot lower pressures. So putting 5psi of fuel pressure into them caused petrol to run out of the overflows. Because it was overflowing, the fuel line pressure wasn't building which then meant the pump wasn't shutting off.

Might of just been a duff pump but it came off a running bike...

Way I see it doing the t piece is just a good fail safe.

Lol yep that's what I said , join the inlet and out let so there is only one feed, add a filter king were the old inline pump was , fuel line to bike pump in engine bay , fuel line to carbs , no return , then ska wars mentioned a t piece , so I did that diagram . So t piece or not is the question lol

If u run a t piece u defeat the object of a bike pump.

May aswell run a facet pump and t piece.

1 earth wire, and one live which you can run to the ignition or put on a switch like i have done

Ok like this , it just confuses me that fuel feed and return go down one hose then split off . The hose is 10 mm isn't it , will get me a t piece , remove the old inline pump and join them up . Will order hose too .Just need to sort the choke cable .....

Yea just like that :)

Can't be sure on a 2f but on my mk2 the fuel hoses are 6mm inner diameter, and the hose on to my carbs is 8mm ID. So I used a 6mm brass T and the 8mm went on with a little push.

May aswell run a facet pump and t piece.

x2

My bike pump is fine tbh, iv known them constantly run but not have them overflow..maybe your needles in the float chambers dont have the best of seals?