Been looking on line at this hammerite rust remover gel has anyone used it ? if so what did you think ? did it do the job ?

thanks all

I've used it before,it worked fine.Tip though is to get primer and paint on top as soon as possible otherwise new rust can and will show up

It works, but it's expensive and there's better stuff out there these days.

Have a look on http://www.rust.co.uk or http://www.frost.co.uk

I've used it before,it worked fine.Tip though is to get primer and paint on top as soon as possible otherwise new rust can and will show up

thanks for the tip might give it ago only 10quid thanks for the tip bozz

It works, but it's expensive and there's better stuff out there these days.

Have a look on http://www.rust.co.uk or http://www.frost.co.uk

Had a quike look at rust.co.uk thay have alot of stuff on sale shall spend a bit more time and check them out

Thank's Yeti

Edited 19 November, 201213 yr by mazraclou

be careful with some rust converter products because primers won't stick to them and will react.

what i usually do is descale the piece of steel i'm working on then using a wire brush usually on an angle grinder, completely remove all traces of surface rust.

now all you should see is the darker steel (where the rust has been) surrounded by the clean steel. once the area has been cleaned and degreased using brake cleaner or similar (don't use any water!) apply the rust converter and leave to dry, once its dry and the area is black (or blue/black depending on product) you can try and paint over it or remove the rust converter with a wire brush as rust converter doesn't really protect the metal once it's dry, it just kills any rust left in the pores of the steel to help prevent the rust coming back.

after treating i recommend coating the steel with a zinc rich primer like zinga.

be careful with some rust converter products because primers won't stick to them and will react.

what i usually do is descale the piece of steel i'm working on then using a wire brush usually on an angle grinder, completely remove all traces of surface rust.

now all you should see is the darker steel (where the rust has been) surrounded by the clean steel. once the area has been cleaned and degreased using brake cleaner or similar (don't use any water!) apply the rust converter and leave to dry, once its dry and the area is black (or blue/black depending on product) you can try and paint over it or remove the rust converter with a wire brush as rust converter doesn't really protect the metal once it's dry, it just kills any rust left in the pores of the steel to help prevent the rust coming back.

after treating i recommend coating the steel with a zinc rich primer like zinga.

Thank you polo45 i have used zink182 in the passed and it does the job

fe-123 is the best rust converter in my opinion. Doesnt react with primer and kills rust faster and easier than anything else I've used, especially the hammerite stuff which started to rust again a few months down the line. Something to do with the chemicals/salts it leaves behind.

Some interesting tips from the Landrover guys http://forum.landrovernet.com/showthread.p...-Dinitrol-RC800

I like Vactan, filthy cheap on eBay in large quantities. Used in marine applications as a rust converter/primer all in one.

Some interesting tips from the Landrover guys http://forum.landrovernet.com/showthread.p...-Dinitrol-RC800

A good read but everyone has ther on idea on what's best

Personally I would look into por15 or epoxy mastic rather than using rust remover as that way you'll be preventing it from coming back at the same time, but they shouldnt be applied over rust remover treated areas. por15 sticks really well to pitted/still slightly rusted areas too and is probably the most durable rust prevention out there