Hi folks i have a L reg 1043cc mk2f/3 polo spi and I'm looking into doing an afh conversion, I'm wanting to use the standard injection for the reasons of reliability, mot emissions and it should work out cheaper. I'm wanting to know how to splice the mk4 loom into the mk3 loom and what wires ect. Also what alternator would be best for this, my thoughts were the afh alternator as this was designed to run the fuel injection on the afh ect. Any help and photos will be a great help and will be much appreciated. Thanks Harry

Pics?

Might be a bit of useful info in this thread http://www.clubpolo.co.uk/forum/index.php?showtopic=196404

I did mine by plugging the 6n engine loom into all the bits I knew I needed to run the engine, so it plugs into the coil, ecu, fusebox, engine ect. I then removed the protective casing from around the loom and traced back all the wires that were being used and taped them up so I knew what was needed as it can get very confusing with a loom untangled all over the floor, I fired it up to make sure it would run and then cut out all the wiring that wasn't being used. You will need some of the 6n internal wiring too, the fusebox to ignition wiring, the immobiliser wiring, the wire from the fuse box to the rev counter and the switched live for the fuel pump, the rest of the 6n in car loom can be binned.

I then just wired the 6n ignition wiring into the early polo ignition wiring so the cars ignition was switching both the cars wiring and the engine wiring

Pics?

Might be a bit of useful info in this thread http://www.clubpolo.co.uk/forum/index.php?showtopic=196404

I did mine by plugging the 6n engine loom into all the bits I knew I needed to run the engine, so it plugs into the coil, ecu, fusebox, engine ect. I then removed the protective casing from around the loom and traced back all the wires that were being used and taped them up so I knew what was needed as it can get very confusing with a loom untangled all over the floor, I fired it up to make sure it would run and then cut out all the wiring that wasn't being used. You will need some of the 6n internal wiring too, the fusebox to ignition wiring, the immobiliser wiring, the wire from the fuse box to the rev counter and the switched live for the fuel pump, the rest of the 6n in car loom can be binned.

I then just wired the 6n ignition wiring into the early polo ignition wiring so the cars ignition was switching both the cars wiring and the engine wiring

Thanks for the reply great help, i understand that the immobiliser, ecu ect has tobe from the same vehicle ? When you say you plugged the loom in was this while still in the 6n or in the mk2/3 ?

Yeah its best if you use the immobiliser, ecu and chip from the key from the same car. You can reprogram stuff from other cars to work together but its just more pissing about

And yep, got it all plugged in and running in the mk2f

Yeah its best if you use the immobiliser, ecu and chip from the key from the same car. You can reprogram stuff from other cars to work together but its just more pissing about

And yep, got it all plugged in and running in the mk2f

If i go ahead with this I'm going to buy a donor car for the ease of having most of the parts needed, would you recommend the 6n alternator over the mk3 ?

Buying a full doner car is by far the best way. I've only ever used 6n alternators on mine just because they give out more power, not that I've ever really needed more but I guess its always good to have. It's not a straight swap tho and is a bit of a bodge to fit so unless you really need the extra amps they kick out I'd just stick with the early alt and put the 6n pulley on it to run the multi v belt. I have had a fair amount of hassle running the later alt, one kept loosing the tension on the belt due to the bodge I'd had to do to fit it and another time i went to check my oil level and noticed my alternator had fallen off at some point and was sitting on the ARB

Buying a full doner car is by far the best way. I've only ever used 6n alternators on mine just because they give out more power, not that I've ever really needed more but I guess its always good to have. It's not a straight swap tho and is a bit of a bodge to fit so unless you really need the extra amps they kick out I'd just stick with the early alt and put the 6n pulley on it to run the multi v belt. I have had a fair amount of hassle running the later alt, one kept loosing the tension on the belt due to the bodge I'd had to do to fit it and another time i went to check my oil level and noticed my alternator had fallen off at some point and was sitting on the ARB

I think ill go for the mk3 alternator with mk4 pulley, thanks for your help with this hopefully find a decent donor car soon

i have an AFH ECU for sale that has the immobiliser mapped out of it which means you can use the original key and don't need to faff about with the transponder ring etc

i have an AFH ECU for sale that has the immobiliser mapped out of it which means you can use the original key and don't need to faff about with the transponder ring etc

Price?

i have an AFH ECU for sale that has the immobiliser mapped out of it which means you can use the original key and don't need to faff about with the transponder ring etc

Hi mate I've pm'd you about the ecu, thanks

Might as well just tape the chip to the transponder ring and tuck it up under the dash if your not bothered about having a functioning immobiliser. although tbh if your going through the hassle of wiring in this conversion, wiring up the immob to work properly is nothing, that parts all plug and play and as a bonus helps keep your pride and joy safe from twoc'ers

Just had a pm off harry so i'll answer it in here to keep all the info in one place for others to see

hi again mate, what did you do about the K-WIRE when you carried out the conversion as id like to have th obd socket there incase i need to adapt a new sensor/ actuator ect plus people say the k-wire is needed to adjust the wiring ? also when you did the conversion how did you connect the wiring to the instrument panel to get items such as temperature, fuel, oil pressure light, and those to work ? thanks again

The obd wiring can be left in so you can still get into the ecu/immob using vag com, pretty much any wiring you want to leave in you can if really wanted to. Stuff like the electric Windows could be retro fitted although modifications would be needed and new window regs, wiring wise, theoretically anything that plugs into the 6n ecu would be used in the early polo once that fusebox is in and live

As for the instrument panel most of that wiring stays as is. I replaced the afh oil preside switch with Tue early polo one and just plugged the early polo wiring into it, there is a spare hole in the thermostat house for an extra sensor so I used the early polo black temp sensor in that and just plugged the early polo wiring back into it. The only instrument wiring I needed to change was to wire the signal wire for the rev counter from the 6n fusebox into the cars wiring (black/red wire going into back of clocks).

All the stuff like the rad fan wiring and what not is kept as was running off the cars wiring. The only other wire I can think of that needs splicing in is the live feed from the 6n fusebox to the fuel sender under the rear seat

I think i'll be using this thread highly.

So you're using MK3 clocks, To run the rev counter you've got wiring going from the 6N fusebox to the Clocks?

Also, Can't you just cut into the MK3 wiring and add the MK4 instead?

yep, black and red stripped wire from the back of the clocks goes to the 6n fusebox, i can find the number of the port/plug if need be

you could splice it in with the early polo wiring if you know what you're doing, i don't so took the easy way

The rev counter wire goes to a green wire coming off the blue plug that your immobiliser comes from, the yellow and white on the 6n fusebox. theres only 1 green wire too so you cant go wrong.

Also the fuel pump, its the yellow and red wire which is in the left corner behind glovebox, as long as you cut that and send the wire to pin M2 on the 6n fusebox your pump will run and prime through the standard procedure as guy mentioned.

All you have coming out of the 6n fusebox is, the main thick live and earth. 3 clear plugs and the 1 blue one, oh and the yellow live plug.

Edited 19 January, 201313 yr by MoustacheG40

The rev counter wire goes to a green wire coming off the blue plug that your immobiliser comes from, the yellow and white on the 6n fusebox. theres only 1 green wire too so you cant go wrong.

Also the fuel pump, its the yellow and red wire which is in the left corner behind glovebox, as long as you cut that and send the wire to pin M2 on the 6n fusebox your pump will run and prime through the standard procedure as guy mentioned.

All you have coming out of the 6n fusebox is, the main thick live and earth. 3 clear plugs and the 1 blue one, oh and the yellow live plug.

Right i appreciate that, However i'm not even running an Immobiliser, I'm getting an De-Codded ECU, I'll still do all the wiring the same, So its...

Mk3 clocks are just one big plug so how do i get these wired off it, Or do i cut them down :p

Just trace the red/black wire from the clocks to the mk3 fusebox, cut it from that end, then join a longer piece of wire, long enough to go to the blue plug on the 6n loom, or fock that plug off as you wont need immob and just put a spade connector straight on to the correct pin

There should be a brown plug by where the coil bolts to in your engine bay, the red/black from that brown plug is the correct wire

Edited 19 January, 201313 yr by MoustacheG40

Wicked thanks, I've got an AFH lump but i didn't get any Loom? Obviously they changed the loom post 97, How would i tell what it is?

Haven't got a clue what the difference is between early and late looms.... :-/ sorry dude

Haven't got a clue what the difference is between early and late looms.... :-/ sorry dude

man, its cool, thanks!

I was sat thinking about this the other week as i really dont fancy bike carbs after looking at the price of them!

As there really isnt a sticky for this ill follow :)

If we get all the info in here we could get it stickyed no problem

The early and late looms are totally different, how they go into the fusebox is different, and the plugs at the other end are too

On the early loom the plugs for the fuse box loom like this

on the other end of the engine bay loom has a round screw in plug where it joins the small engine loom

on the later loom this round plug is replaced by 3 oblong plugs of differing sizes

Edited 20 January, 201313 yr by Mclovin

Right, So how would I tell from a early n late engine,.I've got no loom

an early one would have those style plugs on, a late wouldn't

get the engine wiring diagram from for the 6N AFH from autodata or similair.

spend some time working through, one component at a time, match the wires to your exsisting loom.

that was the best way I could think of to get mine running. and then went about shortening and tidying up the loom.

Good luck