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quick question on my carb conversion

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Relay for what will put less strain on the batt? Just ground the earth from the mk2 loom on the body.

You'll notice cars rarely have any wires going to the negative battery terminal, jus one to the body

jamie dub mentioned a relay on the 12v to take the strain off the battery ? in a PM , think it was in-between the bike pump and the coil + to the battery or something, cant remember off the top of my head

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right i have my wiring done, turned the key, it wanted to start but did want to. can some one remind me what the firing order is for the spark plugs plz? or maybe because the carbs are dry ? also fuel pump is running , i could hear it , they are loud, and i touched the feed to the carbs, it felt like fluid was being pumped in , or was just vibrating. Also my rev counter was twitching up and down from 10 to 15 , a wiring fault ? i also turned my dizzy all the way anti clock wise to advanced.

mk2 loom earth wire to battery negative terminal

mk2 loom green wire to coil negative

mk2 loom black wire to coil positive

mk2f lighting loom wire black to coil positive

mk2f lighting loom red and black wire to coil negative

bike fuel pump earth wire to fuel cut off inertia switch / then fuel cut off inertia switch to chassis earth

bike fuel pump black and blue wire to coil positive

Edited by dart_strife

1-3-4-2

Check for spark rather than guessing.

Plugs wet? You have a bike pump - it should stop once it's primed and not pulse again until you're running really.

Why did you keep the Accum?

Using choke?

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1-3-4-2

Check for spark rather than guessing.

Plugs wet? You have a bike pump - it should stop once it's primed and not pulse again until you're running really.

Why did you keep the Accum?

Using choke?

i was advised to keep the accumulator by some one, cant remember who, to be fair , it is easier to , i couldn't get to the hoses ect as they dissapeared up over the rear beam and petrol tank.

actually thinking back i think I've put the bike pump positive on the coil negative, will need to check tomorrow.

1342 got it , easiest way to check for spark ? plugs aint went , not old either, i know the dizzy works, dont know about the coil, who ever sold me it on here said it did thpugh

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i haven't fitted my choke yet, i have the wire and the nipple, but am abit stumped as how to attach it

post-66071-1358003495_thumb.jpg

Are you sure the leads are in the right place? Not the right order, I mean the actual proper place.

1 goes in a certain position.

You'll need the choke, atleast hold it while someone cranks it.

Mine fired first time though, a little gas and the choke.

Why is there no clamps on the manifold?

Make sure the carbs have filled with fuel first, make sure there's spark, don't guess..

Also, the throttle cable doesn't look to clever in it's position..

turn it over while holding the choke accross

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i took the photo before i put the jubilee clips back on

i will try the choke and the gas

my throttle cable is not attached the the pedal, when it is it sits in the wheel nicely

yes i know one goes in a certain place, there is an indention in the dizzy and the cap has a groove that sits in it dont it to stop the cap from spinning, it was right before, i haven't removed the plugs off the cap, but i have off the plugs on the block when fitting the manifold, maybe i didnt put them on in the right order , the rotary arm spins clock wise dont it ? so 1342 clock wise

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cheers for this aswell lads , you are all spot on :-D

shouldnt need throttle to star it tbh, if anything it makes it harder. just use the choke

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shouldnt need throttle to star it tbh, if anything it makes it harder. just use the choke

i will give it a go tomorrow with the choke, will put the bike pump to coil positive, check my spark plugs order , 1342 clock wise

if your stuck just find pics of other engines d copy it onto yours. thats what i do

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with the choke cable , do i just thread it through the hole on the left and use the solder less nipple? use that attachment on the right to have the cable to guide round to give it a like lever point then have the handle in the car on the dash, left side of the steering wheel ? any one got any pics of there's i can see ?

You don't need to access any pipes going over the beam, you can literally bin the inline pump and accum and join up the correct hoses, although you only need the feed anyway really.

The leads being in the right order is one thing, but you could be 90/180/270 degrees out with them, when cylinder #1 is at TDC the rotor arm must be pointing to where the cyl #1 HT lead is connected.

Looking at the dizzy from passenger wing the rotor arm rotates anti clockwise, I think usually cyl #1 lead ends up top left, then work round anticlockwise 3 4 then 2.

Your pump will run for a bit, you'll hear it drag fuel through as the tone will change. It will then stop. Until you do anything with it. Unless you've a leak at the carbs.

Saying that my cars just decided it doesn't want to start today anyway even with fuel/spark/compression haha

x2 with Norris.

You can crank and hold the choke, and you can kinda twiddle the throttle screw with your thumb, but it's a cow and when you're first trying to fire it, I don't recommend it.

Get a mate, it's easier.

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well something must be wrong for it not to start lol, do you have an immobiliser and alarm ?

i know all you need to do is use one feed, blank off the return, and leave the carbon canister wire to vent. but looking at this picture, i couldnt realise which hose was which without tracing them back, which i couldnt because of what i said earlier.

can know one take a picture on their phone and add it to this thread so i can see how to attach the choke cable ect?

yer cranking it over tdc would be easier to find were to sit one then work round, will do it tomorrow

and there was most defiantly no leaking of fuel that i could see or smell

post-66071-1358017542_thumb.jpg

Edited by dart_strife

How can you not work out what's what when they're colour coded? Lol.

I think the problem with mine might just be the hall sensor beginning to play up.

I know my car well, tested shit like immob etc. be alright, think its just got the hump from leaving it all week!

And Adam FUCKK, text me your address again, need to post this sensor!

  • Author

Like I said , because I can't get to see the hoses , or pull them through , I don't know , reason being thicknesses change don't they , and colours could change ? But iff your saying they are colour coded then I might take a look . I think.some one said the accumulator acts as swirl pot , helping to prevent fuel starvation from the lift pump in the tank when going round corners at speed ?

You don't need to get to them, iv said this. Lol.

There's two blue two black, join black to black, blue to blue, with relevant reducers and hose.

I thought about using the accum like that but didn't bother in the end, and it's been fine.

Saying that I don't drive until my cars misfiring because the needles below the red.

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lol yes i know that now, was just saying because i couldnt get to the rest of the hose, i didnt know iff they changed colour or thickness .

may give it a go , my cars got plenty of petrol in , just cant drive it lol !!

here is were i cut the carbon hose to vent, just before the petrol tank, is this what you did ?

here is were i cut the return and blanked it off, same place just before the petrol tank, is this what you did ?

post-66071-1358023689_thumb.jpg

post-66071-1358023725_thumb.jpg

Can't even remember, I think you're making it a lot more complicated than it needs to be though

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Can't even remember, I think you're making it a lot more complicated than it needs to be though

lol how have i ?? actually i asked these questions before and you said you couldnt remember how you did it. so i went and did it how i thought it could work, now your back saying how to do it lol, would have been easier iff i new this when i did it :lol:

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iff you joined blue to blue, which is return , then did you leave the return hose plumbed in and blanked off the hose in the bay were it originally finished to attach to the throttle body ?

because since i have deleted the return hose back to the tank and blanked it , should i just not join the two blue lines, and blank the one there from the inline pump and bin the rest upto were i have blanked it ?:shock:

  • Author

Got my modified pedal for the carbs

Cable tie choke, May need a tad of throttle depending on how you are carbs are set up on idle jets ...

Mine is on border so needs a tad when cold

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