I have for sale my stage 3 PPS subframe in red.

It has the removable rear cross-member so you don't have to drop the exhaust to fit it.

Wishbone arms are rose jointed at the front end and hinged at the back end.

Fitted it on the car myself and had it there for a while, but have now taken it off because I don't have coilovers and was getting too much body roll and arch rub on track days. I recommend it is used in conjunction with coilovers, as the loss of the anti-roll bar leads to extra body-roll without sufficiently stiff suspension.

It has a few scratches and bits of light surface rust here and there, but nothing a lick of paint couldn't cure, and it's all in working order. Given it mounts to the underside of the car no one will see any marks on it when its fitted anyway.

All the nuts and bolts to fit it are included, except that on the passenger side front anti-roll bar mount on my car the holes have been bored out from M8 to M10 because the original threads were shot. This means you will have to buy two M8 bolts and two M8 washers, but these should be available in any decent tool store as they are standard sizes - just use the bolts from the driver's side mount to get the right size.

Also be aware that the wheels just catch the wishbone arms on full lock because the arms are straight rather than curved like the ARB is. It's rarely a problem as you only really use full lock when parking etc so you just have to remember to stop just before full lock. I think this applies to all stage 3 subframes.

I'm looking for £150

Collection from the rolling road day at Aldon on 2nd Feb, or from Cardiff on any other day.

Would prefer not to post it as its bulky and awkward to package up.

Edited 30 January, 201313 yr by Fastclassics_Dan

DAMNIT why cant this be a stage 2 :( not sure i want a stage 3. awaiting pics :) most likely take it off of your hands though.

edit- gay post moderation... shuda pm'd you...

Edited 28 January, 201313 yr by erixtar1992

I'll have it! Pending pics. PM'd

Second dibs if the above doesnt want?

150 is a bargain. If this popped up wednesday id be buying it.

Dont know why your waiting for pics tbh. Its a square frame with 2 arms coming off. Lol

As the OP said you need stiffish suspension to combat the body roll (coilovers not required), also the full lock issue is solved with (i think) 5mm spacers but if you have wheel weights on the inside edge the frame does a good job at removing them.

Ok, given several people are interested in this, then the price is staying at £150.

I took some pics last night but couldn't find the camera cable so pics will go up tonight.

I didn't think to try using wheel spacers to avoid the full lock issue, but that sounds like it could work. Cymro is right though: keep an eye on wheel balancing weights if you hear a clunk on full lock.

I'll be prioritising potential buyers based on who posted or PM'd first as that's the only fair way.

is there much difference in this from the ppp one ?

Is there much difference in this from the ppp one?

Last time I checked, the PPP one didn't have the removable rear cross-member, so you had to drop the exhaust off to fit the frame. This one can be fitted without touching the exhaust.

Apart from that I think they're fairly similar. I couldn't say which was better though as I haven't had a PPP one.

is there much difference in this from the ppp one?

PPP one has a solid rear section, dust jackets on the rosejoints and the holes aren't slotted.

is there much difference in this from the ppp one?

PPP one has a solid rear section, dust jackets on the rosejoints and the holes aren't slotted.

does having a solid rear section make much difference, if any and whats the difference in having slotted and non slotted holes

slotted holes make it easier to fit, but obviously it could potentially move.

ill probably get it on then weld the slots up, maybe by welding some washers over the top. should be alright. looking forward to seeing how bent my car is.. lol

is there much difference in this from the ppp one?

PPP one has a solid rear section, dust jackets on the rosejoints and the holes aren't slotted.

does having a solid rear section make much difference, if any and whats the difference in having slotted and non slotted holes

Dust jackets can be purchased easy enough.

Slotted holes allow for misalingment in the car body. My pps one bolted straight on, i was lucky enough to have a perfectly straight car.

The pps rear beam bolts through and then you tension it up.

^What he said - beat me to it!

My car must be well out of line, I had to use straps, g-clamps, bars and swear words in 4 different languages to get my PPS frame on.... doubt I'd ever have got a PPP one on

^What he said - beat me to it!

My car must be well out of line, I had to use straps, g-clamps, bars and swear words in 4 different languages to get my PPS frame on.... doubt I'd ever have got a PPP one on

isit a stage 2 or 3? would you say its worth it then? nice to drive daily?

Edited 31 January, 201313 yr by erixtar1992

If I ever get all 4 wheels in the right place and pointing in the same direction.... I'll let you know!

hahahha!!

is there much difference in this from the ppp one?

PPP one has a solid rear section, dust jackets on the rosejoints and the holes aren't slotted.

does having a solid rear section make much difference, if any and whats the difference in having slotted and non slotted holes

Dust jackets can be purchased easy enough.

Slotted holes allow for misalingment in the car body. My pps one bolted straight on, i was lucky enough to have a perfectly straight car.

The pps rear beam bolts through and then you tension it up.

so the rear beam just makes it easier to fit instead of removing the exhaust other than that it makes no difference between it being removable or not

think that was the sole point on it.

eric: mines a daily. If anything it made it much more enjoyable to drive, especially on windy rural roads.

cool! i look forward too it! just worried about setting it up lol

Its easy. You just need to make sure both wheels are central to the arch, adjustment is done with the front arms and car on the floor, pick a fixed point that should be identical either side, measure to the centre of the wheel, adjust arms till there the same, then tighten the lock nuts.

as this ones been on a car before it should be close to being right.

yeah he said he hasnt adjusted it since it was all on the car, simply removed the arms. wont be getting tested for a little while anyway i spose.

As Cymro says, the arms are pretty easy to adjust. I tended to only adjust in whole turns of the arm, which adjusts by one thread pitch for each turn. I would just jack up that wheel, undo the lock nuts, rotate central section of the arm 360 degrees, tighten lock nuts and drop jack. Then repeat for the other side.

Interestingly when I had this on the car, both front wheels were central in the arch, but now I've gone back to an ARB with nylon blocks and nylon TCA bushes, one of the wheels is not central in the arch, so the adjustable arms allow you compensate if your car is not quite straight!

I would say this is probably easier to fit than fitting an ARB with nylon blocks, because you're not trying to pull the TCAs and wheel hubs forward for everything to line up. You fit the frame first and bolt it up with no load on it, then you only have to push one TCA forward at a time to fit each wishbone arm, or you can adjust the arm till it fits the TCA natural position and then adjust the arm itself to pull the TCA forward.

The only thing I would say is get someone to hold the frame in position for you while you line up the bolts and bolt it up. The inner end of the TCAs bolt into a blind hole and its a bit tricky to line everything up and bolt it in on your own, although I did manage it eventually!