Lowered my 6n2 by 40mm and got alot of camber i have bought some camber adjustment bolts as adviced these allow upto -1.75 to +1.75 camber adjustment so I'm hoping these will sort it out.

but on a scale of not much to alot how much camber is 1.75 degress?

cheers

Didn't we tell you the problem in the last thread you made?

Or am I mistaken

Didn't we tell you the problem in the last thread you made?

Or am I mistaken

Yes thats why i bought the camber adjustment bolts but after taking the car to the gargre with the bolts they seemed to think that the bolts will not be able to be adjusted enough to sort out the camber.

i have taken the car in to day to see how much the camber is out, i will then be able to see if the bolts can adjust the camber or not.

i was just wondering how much camber is 1.75 degrees? seen as thats how much the bolts can be adjusted

sorry if i stated the question wrong i have tryed to do my own research but still have no clue.

cheers

Green line is your wheel before, blue after with 1.75

just had my car in the garage, drivers side wheel is 4.30 and passanger side is 3.18 so i am just going to put standered springs back on untill i can find a way to get it right on the 40mm springs

Front or back?

Front or back?

front

Assuming it's the same as most VW's.

Just slacken the bolts that mount the hub carrier to the strut, take the eccentric one out, pull the hub carrier into line and put the bolts back?

Using camber bolts wont give anymore adjustment because it's still dictated by the size of the slots.

If you can't get any less than that being lowered 40mm your garage obviously dunno what they're doing, their measuring kits wrong or you have a wrong part fitted to your car.

we ended up fitting the bolts at my mates garage tonight and they allowed alittle bit of adjustment but not alot so we grinned the bolts down and tryed it again and it is nearly perfect now

cheers for the advice aswell guys

Why've I got this horrible feeling that the bolts are now M5's.

Look, your garage are shite and they don't know what they're doing. It needs tracked AND cambered, at the same time. The tracking stops you pulling the hubs out hard enough. I'd draw a diagram but cba.

Find a garage that does motorsport setups. I've never had an issue with getting mine cambered, or tracked for that matter, and mine is down 70mm.

... so we grinned the bolts down and tryed it again and it is nearly perfect now

You did what?.. you are going to have to explain that one... you know these bolts help keep the wheels on your car?!?

The garage is Bush tyres, and the camber was out the the bolts would not adjust enough to pull it back right so we had to modify the bolt so it could allow more adjustment.

Edited 7 February, 201313 yr by JOSH-VW

Why are you using those and not the standard bolt?

Stick the standard bolt back in and your problems will be solved.

Should easily have enough adjustment as standard, how do people with coilovers get on do you think?

I'd find a new garage if i was you

the camber was out by 4.30 one side and 3.18 on the other side there is not enough adjustment on the the standard bolts so i bought the adjustable bolts and there was still not enough adjustment (they could only adjust up to 1.75)

So the camber was +4.30 and +3.18?

Id go with something not being fitted correctly

So the camber was +4.30 and +3.18?

Id go with something not being fitted correctly

no it was -4.30 and 3.18

It's still wrong though.

You can only assemble these right, the struts get bolted onto the hub with two bolts. Standard, VW bolts. Nothing special.

The bolt holes are slotted - this is what gives you adjustment. I understand what you're saying, but the garage isn't doing it right!

Imagine looking at the wheel and trying to pull the hub towards you. Yes, it'll only go so far, but the track rod will also restrain movement, because it's fixed. This needs adjusted at the same time.

If you remove the track rod so it's just the hub, you'll be able to pull it right out.

Also, the three bolts on the wishbone adjust camber, too.

You DONT need camber bolts!

So -4.30 and + 3.18.

or - 3.18?

It still sounds like something isnt fitted properly.

I actually don't see what could possibly go wrong though.

It's three bolts on the top mount, and two bolts on the hub.

The top mount only goes on one way. And so does the hub.

I actually don't see what could possibly go wrong though.

It's three bolts on the top mount, and two bolts on the hub.

The top mount only goes on one way. And so does the hub.

Exactly, thats what i cant work out.

I need Matt01's calculator to work out what the camber looks like

it was -4.30 and -3.18, we replaced the top bolt out of the 2 with the camber adjustment one. with the bolt holes been slotted the thinner the bolts the more adjustment you will get i assume?

Edited 7 February, 201313 yr by JOSH-VW

I said you don't need adjustable camber bolts.

If you cannot achieve neutral camber with standard bolts something is wrong.

Either they don't know what they're doing, your lower arms are too long, you have the wrong hubs, their measuring kit is shit.

Also -3.18 what? Mm? Degrees? Degrees and minutes? Inches?

I could probably have got +/-4 degrees camber on my 6n lowered around 95mm; so fuck knows what you're doing wrong!

Camber bolts just ease adjustment, it doesn't make the standard slot any bigger so won't get you any adjustment more.

As you alter toe it effects camber on most cars, so you kind of need to do them both at the same time.

Yes BUT at the risk of the bolt failing under stress.