I have some FK Konigsport coilovers and the ride is set to firm, but still cant get the tyres close enough to the tyre without them scraping.

My question is how can I make them Firmer/Stiffer/Harder?

Would removing the helper springs mate any difference, i've been told it does but cant see how it will as the helpers will be fully compressed when the car is not jacked.

Any help would be good.

Thanks,

Pete.

Stiffer springs.

~ £20 each.

But youd need to know what rate and length you have currently

How would I find the spring rating, would it be advertised on a site?

Pete.

The rating of the spring should be marked on the spring itself.

It should be marked in pounds (lbs) on the outside of one of the coils. You will also need to remove the spring to measure it's length when not compressed in the strut.

I can't figure out how to get the spring compressed in front coilovers to get the spring out though. My spring compresors are too big to fit into the small coils of the front springs.

I have helpers on the back of mine but no helpers on the front. The front is much stiffer than the back so maybe removing the helpers would make it stiffer. I'm not 100% on that though.

Let me know if you get the front coils off!

Doubt it's stamped on generic production springs tbh.

There are ways and means to establish their rates but you can really just guess.

If you want such little travel you'll need some stiff springs, potentially ruining the car - but if you want no suspension travel this is already done anyway so.

Most the helpers are just used as a tender spring, to keep the spring tight for MOT then compress to nothing under the weight of the car, NOT as a helper like a progressive spring setup on decent coilovers.

So really when people remove helpers, you could actually either get some helpers which are smaller when fully compressed - eibach offer ones which are around 13mm when fully compressed/coil bound. Or you

Could use your standard ones with a shorter main spring, providing that has enough available travel/is stiff enough for its length.

The spring should technically also have an amount of preload in full rebound, but it's often difficult to achieve lower ride heights with this - why do you think some coilovers adjust at the strut mounting bracket not the spring pan?

There's a lot of thought and calculation which can be put into spring rates before you've even driven the car, you can have a basic ride frequency which is literally just the front and rear frequencies the car will move at with no influence from bushes or damping or roll bars, then it gets a lot more technical with roll stiffnesses etc.

The stiffness of some of the springs supplied could probably result in a very high ride frequency, like 3+ hz which is full blown race car territory - and people say they ride shit. Although stiffer doesn't always mean less comfortable. And also a 300lb front spring on two cars with the same front axle mass doesn't always equate to the same, as it depends massively on the wheel or motion ratio.

What you need to do is remove a spring, and measure its free length, then the rate MAY be stamped/marked on it but I doubt it - unless they're custom.

There are ways to find the rate, probably easier to measure in n/mm instead of lbs/in though.

Can be done with a vernier height gauge and some masses, or even on a press with some scales for measuring the exerted force.

For example,

Plonk 10kg on the spring, 10x9.81 (acceleration due to gravity) = 98.1n of force, if this moved the spring exactly 0.5mm,

0.5 x 2 = 1mm 98.1 x 2 = 196.2n which equals 196.2n/mm - which is a stiff ass spring!

If that 10kg moved it 5mm,

98.1 / 5 = 19.62n/mm

Obviously you can convert either way, it's just easier to work in metric IMO. Can always be converted back to lbs/in

Once you have your rate and free length we may be able to recommend something