Would like to fit one, thinking of getting a universal one and fitting it somewhere, maybe the cd holder above the heater controls.

Does anyone have any better ideas?

They're are some on eBay for pc towers etc, so connect the power to the stereo so cone on with ignition, then mount the probe somewhere outside.

Some will fit into the back of the funny hole if you cut the back away. Also, it looks like a CD holder, but it doesn't actually hold CD's think it's for coins.

I had done this on my 6n glove box as it has three flat faces on the lower part of it, so I had ammeter, volt meter and temp. Fitted in nicely and worked well with the aircraft theme I was going for.

Hth.

I had one of these left over from my old car and was going to fit it to my 6n http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Genuine-Ford...=item2312ea1763 it's a clock and OAT gauge if you fit the optional sensor

I have 2 from my pc tower but the problem is that the wires are nowhere nearly long enough to route it outside. Also I believe they work off of resistance so lengthening the wire may cause readings to be incorrect.

Also could you put a pic of your setup on here?

If you cut the wire it the middle and extend the wire to go out of the heater air intake in ttie scuttle area then solder the connections, shouldn't effect it that much to give an inaccurate reading.

I will have to look for the glovebox as the car is in bits, but as soon as, I will upload it.

Just tried it (extending the wire) and comparing it by shorting it with the original and it doesnt make a difference. Although these run off of 5v, so id need to find a 5v supply to run it off, that comes on with the iginition. Anyone?

Iv found some step down transformers on ebay cheap, so thats solved, but would be easier if theres was a supply from somewhere.

Edited 18 February, 201313 yr by chrisjb330

Just tried it (extending the wire) and comparing it by shorting it with the original and it doesnt make a difference. Although these run off of 5v, so id need to find a 5v supply to run it off, that comes on with the iginition. Anyone?

Simple, get one of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/110830729989?var...984.m1423.l2649 +12v in from the radio supply, a ground/chassis connection and you'll +5v output

I was looking at one used for leds but that would work. I have some lm317ts which would work with a resistor. Ill see if the display fits tomorrow.

I was looking at one used for leds but that would work. I have some lm317ts which would work with a resistor. Ill see if the display fits tomorrow.

Just a thought, with that ebay item, you could also connect it up to a USB socket to provide a dedicated phone/satnav charger as it's rated @ 1amp

Yeah, you'd need a heatsink if you're drawing an amp off them though - they get very hot because you waste whatever energy you use as heat.

So say, 12v, 1A - that's 12W's going in. If you're putting out 5V 1A, then you're using 5W. That's 7W to waste..

Why don't you get GTi clocks and use the temperature sensor in the mirror?

I have some heatsinks left over.

The gti clocks dont have an outside temp do they?

I have some heatsinks left over.

The gti clocks dont have an outside temp do they?

Instruments (only Polo GTI)

1 - Fuel gauge

2 - Ambient temperature display

3 - Cooling system temperature display

4 - Engine speed

5 - Clock setting button (backwards)

6 - Clock display unit

7 - Clock setting button (forwards)

8 - Daily trip recorder switch (reset)

9 - Odometer

10 - Short distance odometer

11 - Vehicle speed display

I have some heatsinks left over.

The gti clocks dont have an outside temp do they?

Instruments (only Polo GTI)

1 - Fuel gauge

2 - Ambient temperature display

3 - Cooling system temperature display

4 - Engine speed

5 - Clock setting button (backwards)

6 - Clock display unit

7 - Clock setting button (forwards)

8 - Daily trip recorder switch (reset)

9 - Odometer

10 - Short distance odometer

11 - Vehicle speed display

Oh right, couldnt really get away with having the clocks though, iv got a tdi and the rev counter only goes up to like 4.5k til it red lines lmao.

Sorted the transformer circuit, ordered a blue display to match the rest of the dash and some wire + inline fuse.

Also they sit really well in the coin holder or whatever it is.

Just need a route to take the temperature probe, i know Dixy said "extend the wire to go out of the heater air intake in ttie scuttle area", but where is this? And wouldnt it end up near the engine/exhaust? My plan was to find some wires going into the engine bay and just find somewhere eg under the front bumper.

you could run it to the passenger door mirror, as that's where the OEM sensor is fitted

Stupid question, right. But when you say transformer system - you don't actually mean a transformer, do you?

Because they only work on AC, and a car's electrical system is DC..

Transformers transform the voltage. But I'm using a lm317t voltage regulator.

Could do but i dont fancey taking the door card off again as iv put new grab handles on and had the card off a few times already. But that will be my backup.

I was thinking in the front bumper maybe behind the foglight?

Yes, I'm aware of that, but a transformer works because it's a coil of wire in wrapped round an iron block. But it works because of the change in voltage caused by the AC currect, rather than DC. Transformers don't work with DC.

But, yes.

Also, why use the lm317t? That's an adjustable one, is it not?

The door card can be removed in less than a minute. Handles off, remove screws and pull? It's not difficult. Routing a cable into the bay isn't hard either - use the OEM grommit back from the battery

I had some lm317ts leftover.

Suppose, just done want to wear the clips out tbh. Must have been off 4/5 times already, but it may be the easiest option

But the extra setup of resistors seems unnecessary. I've not worn the clips out yet an mine has been off literally hundreds of times.

Its just saved me ordering them and spending money.

Yeah thinking about it, its the best place to put it. Aslong as i get the grab handle off without marking it ill be happy. The rest is easy. Just waiting for the stuff to come. Ill post the details how i did it when its done.

Did it yesterday, couldnt use the wing mirror for the temp probe as theres nowhere to route the wire and I'm not having it just hanging there.

Took me a while to find a hole through to the engine bay, eventually used the one on the passenger side. I put the probe behind the right hand foglight, pretty much next to the horn.

The cigarette lighter doesnt go off with the ignition which i found odd, but anyway i just used a wire from the heated window switch (1 amp fuse included).

All works fine apart from... when you turn the blower fan from 0 - 1 or back quickly the temp gauge resets (as though its turned off and on) yet the screen doesnt flicker or anything. It also does it when you turn the heated rear window on or off. But it doesnt do it all the time?

Iv checked the output voltage of my little circuit and its always around 5.09v (lcd display requires 5v), all the wires are secure so I'm pretty stumped. The car voltage doesnt go below 11v ish. Doesnt do it with headlights or anything.

Not tried it when driving yet. Doesnt bother me that much just find it a bit weird thats all, anyone got any ideas?

I'd say the voltage drop of the motor or heated windscreen is causing the gauge to reset, or it's introducing interference into the circuit.

The motor from stationary is going to have a high starting current, as is the windscreen. I'd find another supply I think. My AFR gauge is tapped into the stereo live and it's introduced a lot of high pitched squeal into the speakers.. How annoying. :(

I'd say the voltage drop of the motor or heated windscreen is causing the gauge to reset, or it's introducing interference into the circuit.

The motor from stationary is going to have a high starting current, as is the windscreen. I'd find another supply I think. My AFR gauge is tapped into the stereo live and it's introduced a lot of high pitched squeal into the speakers.. How annoying. :(

Wheres another good supply that comes on with the ignition? Would be a pain to put a relay in.

Tee into the BLACK/YELLOW wire comming from the ignition switch, it's only live in the ignition ON position