So as the title states just had the new bearings pressed in but when holding the hub there's movement in the front plate (that the wheel mounts too)

There shouldn't be any side to side movement in this right?

Thing is not only that on the other hub there's a little back and forward movement too

Are the hubs shot?

Also am I right in thinking that the retaining ring isn't necessary?

Edited 19 March, 201313 yr by H@wK£R

Without seeing this, it is a bit difficult to make a judgement on what is working clearance (there shouldn't be much) and what is wear.

first of all, are you quite sure that the movement is not somewhere else, for example in the swivel joints?

If the new bearing needed to be pressed in (as it should), it is fair to assume that there is no wear between the swivel hub and the new bearing.

Is the flange (wheel hub) a good fit?

By the retaining ring, do you mean the circlip? If so, I can 'sort of' see what you mean by asking if it is necessary,BUT this regulates the position of the bearing and in any case, if VW didn't think it was required, you can bet your bottom dollar that they wouldn't have gone to the bother of machining a groove for it and fitting one!

Regards.

hi mate

sounds silly but have you mounted the strut to the car and fitted the drive shaft?

i noticed this once when i got new bearings but once i fitted and tightened the drive shaft the play was gone. seems they all do this before the drive shaft pulls them together

It's on 95 8v 6n but the brake setup is the 256mm from a valver not sure on year.

Earlier today I put a cv joint in both of the hubs and it did eliminate a lot of the movement to pretty much nothing as you say when it's all back together it should be tight and have no movement at all

With the retaining ring it doesn't matter now as I was being stupid as the bearing gets pushed in from the opposite side to what I was thinking.

What procedure did you follow to torque up the hub nut?

What procedure did you follow to torque up the hub nut?

I haven't put them back on the car yet. This was fresh after the new bearings had been put in I was holding the hub in my hand and with the other moving the plate around.

Oh they'll be shit til it's all torqued up bud. Unless the drive flange is properly fucked

Yeah the two halves of the bearing need to be clamped together by the CV joint shaft and hub nut. Until the hub nut is torqued up there's gonna be play, especially if the hub was pressed in face side up.

Yep thanks chaps, assembled everything back together today and its all tight and no more Grinding wheel bearing :)

Just out of interest, what Is the correct procedure for thigthening the hub nut?

Tight as you can I've always used an impact wrench, never had a problem sometimes people over stress torque settings, the only time I would ever consider them is on mechanical engine parts.

Installing

Remove any paint residue and/or corrosion on thread/splines of the outer joint.

‒ Fit drive shaft.

‒ Guide outer joint into wheel hub splines as far as possible.

Coat contact surface of twelve-point nut with oil and screw on as far as possible.

‒ Pull outer joint into the wheel hub until the outer joint is in position.

‒ Tighten 12-point nut to 200 Nm and then loosen one turn.

‒ → Tighten 12-point nut. Tightening torque, 50 Nm + turn 45° further

To tighten 12-point nut we recommend the angle measuring wrench V.A.G 1756.

If an angle measuring wrench is not available then tighten 12-point nut using following method.

‒ Lower vehicle until the wheels touch ground.

‒ Tighten 12-point nut to 200 Nm and then loosen one turn.

‒ Tighten 12-point nut to 50 Nm.

‒ → Mark one of the 12-points on the nut with a line

‒ Mark a 2nd line on the edge of the wheel hub above the next 12-point.

‒ Turn 12-point nut further until both lines align.

Just buzzing it up with an impact wrench as suggested above is a dangerous and stupid suggestion as you would be putting the bearing under an unknown loading and stressing the threads on the driveshaft Torque figures are there for a reason

Done it over a dozen times for years at a time, always have and always will, either that or just use a breaker bar

Do you torque wheel bolts up too?

There's various ways of doing a lot of jobs, I tend to do it the proper way.

Hub nut torques have procedures due to bearing preloads, but can also effect the feel of the car generally.

I torque any major fixing really.

However I have also followed VW procedure and found its not enough, but after investigation this can be dependant on the quality of the replacement hubnuts you use.

Yea surely settings get affected from using genuine, oe quality and pattern parts

Could it be that the reason for doing it 'dozens of times' was that it was over tightened in the first place.....joking really... I'm sure that you're not talking about the same hub!!

Could it be that the reason for doing it 'dozens of times' was that it was over tightened in the first place.....joking really... I'm sure that you're not talking about the same hub!!

not the same one had these hubs for around 3 years on my car and I'm sure they hadn't been changed for quite abit before that. Really before I put them on I should have changed the bearings but didn't

Ill also add when I say I gun them on I actually meant I do it because its quicker. When the nut/bolt starts getting tight I control the gun. If its over torqued it won't be by a huge amount.

Edited 25 March, 201313 yr by H@wK£R

A lot of procedures commonly torque to a figure, to pull everything tightly together, back it off then torque, often with an angle.

Production procedures also have a limit to the speed the nut can be wound up, eg no greater than 75rpm. So really your impact gun isn't ideal at all - just laziness lol.

Possibly true

to your common diy enthusiast they wouldn't know about correct rpm, i know haynes state correct torque but rpm I'm not sure.

I'll tell you this though. I bet half the people who mess/fix their own cars don't torque to settings. Probably don't own one. Just saying.

I borrow one when doing anything mechanical.

Need to get myself a decent torque wrench tbh.

EDIT: just had a look through my Haynes and it doesn't state a torque setting for the hub nut. Not that I can see anyway

Edited 25 March, 201313 yr by H@wK£R

Yeah I know lol, I had to go higher than torque on mine anyway as it wasn't enough.

Nick 1 - 0 VW

States one for the brake splash shield but not the hub nut

States one for the brake splash shield but not the hub nut

It does on page 8.1 exactly the same figures as I posted before

States one for the brake splash shield but not the hub nut

It does on page 8.1 exactly the same figures as I posted before

So it does. I was looking steering and suspension on 10

your right, alot of people dont stick to the correct torque settings, but alot of people wouldnt use a gun to do something like that up. you have no feel over how tight that nut is. for all you know your battery could be beginning to run out and not allowing you to do it as tight as you think.

atleast with a breaker bar or something you get a good feel of what your doing.

for vital components such as head bolts ect id always use the torque settings though.

your right, alot of people dont stick to the correct torque settings, but alot of people wouldnt use a gun to do something like that up. you have no feel over how tight that nut is. for all you know your battery could be beginning to run out and not allowing you to do it as tight as you think.

atleast with a breaker bar or something you get a good feel of what your doing.

for vital components such as head bolts ect id always use the torque settings though.

I do use a breaker. Start with a gun then finish with breaker

Edited 25 March, 201313 yr by H@wK£R