Emailed trigger-wheels.com (megajolt) about:

http://trigger-wheels.com/store/contents/en-uk/d45.html (16v engine)

They wanna know what crank pulley I've got and measurement of it's diameter so advise further on the trigger 36-1.

I've been on ebay could not find a thing. Searched on google and could not find one except for a standard 6N 1.4.

Is only place to get the dimension from VW dealers? Would they give that kind of information out.

Wasn't sure weather to put this in ECU or engine dep forum. Any advice from Mergajolt users is appreciated.

Edited 31 March, 201313 yr by damunk

Iv just made a trigger wheel setup for my car mate.

Few things to consider, such as clearance to the chassis leg.

The 16v crank pulley is wider than an 8v - does it only have a single bolt fixing for the AUX pulley or is this a AVY thing?

The 4 tapped holes are not equally spaced, I have a trigger wheel with slots so you can accurately adjust the wheel to the sensor for your TDC reference. Cost about £20 inc plating.

Assume you want 36-1 on what car? What shell?

Nick

Iv just made a trigger wheel setup for my car mate.

Few things to consider, such as clearance to the chassis leg.

The 16v crank pulley is wider than an 8v - does it only have a single bolt fixing for the AUX pulley or is this a AVY thing?

The 4 tapped holes are not equally spaced, I have a trigger wheel with slots so you can accurately adjust the wheel to the sensor for your TDC reference. Cost about £20 inc plating.

Assume you want 36-1 on what car? What shell?

Nick

36-1 on polo 16v 6n AFH. Want my mechanic to set it up before I put carbs on and take to bogg bros, but want to supply him with all the correct trigger wheel, brakets so he does not have to mess around.

Was looking at a kit for around £320 from trigger-wheels.

I'm having KW's Weitec coilovers (now gone up in price alot) going on this car on Friday and if you notice I made a thread about a oil patch on the plastic timing belt cover.

The guy is taking all day to put the coils on so I hope he can quickly take of the cover so we can see if everything is alright.

At the same time I can see the crank pulley.

I think it is just one middle bolt type pulley.

Edited 31 March, 201313 yr by damunk

Buy the bare minimal from Trigger-Wheels, just get the ECU and connector really, other stuff they sell is cheap shit IMO.

Get a sensor to suit what you want, get an EDIS Module from a scrappy with the connector, TPS to suit the carbs as you wont have to mess around making a universal one fit.

Crank sensor, a mk5 fiesta zetec S has a fairly compact one with an angled part for the connector, its a bit tight for room on my car so this mattered also.

Cant even remember what a 6n looks like down there now :(

Buy the bare minimal from Trigger-Wheels, just get the ECU and connector really, other stuff they sell is cheap shit IMO.

Get a sensor to suit what you want, get an EDIS Module from a scrappy with the connector, TPS to suit the carbs as you wont have to mess around making a universal one fit.

Crank sensor, a mk5 fiesta zetec S has a fairly compact one with an angled part for the connector, its a bit tight for room on my car so this mattered also.

Cant even remember what a 6n looks like down there now :(

Is that the TPS sensor already on the carb?

Yes mate! Slightly newer carbs than mine they are, but will work the same none the less, they're a linear variable resistor I beleive, mine certainly is, connected to a 5v supply you virtually get 0.1v-4.9v reading, thats through the whole range of the sensor, so obviously on the carbs it is slightly less to allow for sensor position/not bottoming it out and snapping it. Now my ECU isnt broken it works fine, as it does on my friends car(s) which have been on megajolt and megasquirt

Ill just look for some pics for you.

Yes mate! Slightly newer carbs than mine they are, but will work the same none the less, they're a linear variable resistor I beleive, mine certainly is, connected to a 5v supply you virtually get 0.1v-4.9v reading, thats through the whole range of the sensor, so obviously on the carbs it is slightly less to allow for sensor position/not bottoming it out and snapping it. Now my ECU isnt broken it works fine, as it does on my friends car(s) which have been on megajolt and megasquirt

Ill just look for some pics for you.

Thanks man, so I don't need a TPS? If so that's some of the cost trimmed already :)

Is that the sensor you have above. It's from a FORD FIESTA 2001 MK5 1.25 ZETEC.

Anything will work mate, thats a cam sensor i think, my plugs at 45 degress, that would work though, looks compact. sensor gap needs to be around 0.8-1mm from the trigger wheel.

Mocked this up on an old 6n engine in the garage..

Changed to the earlier pulley for clearance..

Ribbed Type

V belt type

Note, had to mod cambelt cover to clear this.

Machined myself a hubcentric spacer to bolt through to mount the trigger wheel...

And made myself a bracket to mount the Ford coil pack & a distributor blank (retains a standard dizzy O ring)

Spacer to clear the dish of the pulley

Wheel bolted into place..

Started mocking up a bracket..

Welded it together and checked for fitment..

On the car..

Install...

Oh and heres my TPS (Said mine was different)

Id do a few things differently perhaps if I did it again, but it works fine.

Need to make one for a 16v soonish anyway but probably not before you do lol.

Hope this helps..

Well the way I'm going I'm not sure if I will do it before you.

Man, that trigger wheel looks right close to the limit.

Is that in a 6n 16v engine bay?

Also could I get away with standard ribbed pully and just make the spacer half inch shorter?

Nah thats a mk3 bay lol.

Nah thats a mk3 bay lol.

Yep Yep. lol sorry.

Right, anyway that spacer looks good quality. If my pulley is same one. Would your spacer fit? (doubt it as it's a diff engine lol) Because I need to do something. Would you make & sell? Can't imagine bogg bros or my mechanic wanting to naff about like this.

Edited 31 March, 201313 yr by damunk

Not sure yet dude, I need to see whats tranferrable to the 16v, measure some offsets etc! Anything I machine is staying behind in my own time at work, cant just bang it on a CNC machine whilst I'm doing other stuff unlike some people have the luxuary of :(

Not sure yet dude, I need to see whats tranferrable to the 16v, measure some offsets etc! Anything I machine is staying behind in my own time at work, cant just bang it on a CNC machine whilst I'm doing other stuff unlike some people have the luxuary of :(

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-mini-adjustab...=item1c31633486

this trigger wheel do the job?

Don't know why trigger wheel want my pulley size.

They only sell universal trigger wheels and ones for a ford or rover.

Edited 31 March, 201313 yr by damunk

Yeah thats what Iv got mate.

The PCD of the big block VAG engines (KR, ABF etc) are the same for the aux pulley.

You could space it easier, or mount it behind and then respace alternator pulley perhaps

Did you go the megajolt route to get better carb setup? Instead of using mk2 coilpack , loom etc

Megajolt would give you better map-able timing to get the best out of the carbs?

BTW the above trigger wheel is mini light weight 121mm according to ebay description. That's small. Is this correct. :)

Edited 31 March, 201313 yr by damunk

Just checked the crank pulley is def the ribbed type and man theres hardly any clearance.

It is just one BOLT straight through middle.

2 thirds of the pulley is below the metal structure so thats clear. top 1/3 is not and is as close to the metal as picture suggests.. I wonder if a mini trigger wheel would fit.

Where does the alternator belt go to? Is thank running of the crank also?

Is there only one timing belt in afh? because the pully seemed to be hanging out from where the cam plastic cover is.

Edited 31 March, 201313 yr by damunk