Lowered the mk2f 60 mm on the front.and added arb blocks. I don't like the sounds I'm getting at the mo, clicking when I go over speed bumps, creaking. Scrubbing at 30 mph, there shouldn't be any rubbing , 13 wheels , tyres 13 55 165 . What colud be wrong ?

Edited 23 June, 201313 yr by dart_strife

Lowered the mk2f 60 mm on the front.and added arb blocks. I don't like the sounds I'm getting at the mo, clicking when I go over speed bumps, creaking. Scrubbing at 30 mph, there shouldn't be any rubbing , 13 wheels , tyres 13 55 165 . What colud be wrong ?

Could it not just be settling or something?

You may have bent the back plate and this is catching the disc also the pads may not have gone back in flush and some bolts may have come loose. Top mounts could be knocking also check around the disc area then check all bolts are tight

You may have bent the back plate and this is catching the disc also the pads may not have gone back in flush and some bolts may have come loose. Top mounts could be knocking also check around the disc area then check all bolts are tight

I'm going to jack it up any get under there , I removed the splash plates, there were rusty and fucked. Should the tca arms sit flush on the clamps that go around them ? Or have a bit of a gap onto the shroomed head ? Mine are say 5mm gap

Not sure to be honest mate never looked that closed once jacked up move the wheel left and right only a small amount and feel for play if it moves without moving anything else then this would point to a loose bolt. A few people have a problem with the tca bolt check this make sure it's tight if in doubt of the condition replace not a bolt you want snapping while driving for the sake of a few quid

Not sure to be honest mate never looked that closed once jacked up move the wheel left and right only a small amount and feel for play if it moves without moving anything else then this would point to a loose bolt. A few people have a problem with the tca bolt check this make sure it's tight if in doubt of the condition replace not a bolt you want snapping while driving for the sake of a few quid

I replaced all bolts , had everything powder coated , see my build thread lol . Looking at it, one wheel looks a tad more forward than the other :-/

Not sure to be honest mate never looked that closed once jacked up move the wheel left and right only a small amount and feel for play if it moves without moving anything else then this would point to a loose bolt. A few people have a problem with the tca bolt check this make sure it's tight if in doubt of the condition replace not a bolt you want snapping while driving for the sake of a few quid

I replaced all bolts , had everything powder coated , see my build thread lol . Looking at it, one wheel looks a tad more forward than the other :-/

Points to something wrong with anti roll bar, did you tighten the anti roll bar bolts with the car on the ground to avoid preload?

Edited 10 April, 201313 yr by derskine

Not sure to be honest mate never looked that closed once jacked up move the wheel left and right only a small amount and feel for play if it moves without moving anything else then this would point to a loose bolt. A few people have a problem with the tca bolt check this make sure it's tight if in doubt of the condition replace not a bolt you want snapping while driving for the sake of a few quid

I replaced all bolts , had everything powder coated , see my build thread lol . Looking at it, one wheel looks a tad more forward than the other :-/

Points to something wrong with anti roll bar, did you tighten the anti roll bar bolts with the car on the ground to avoid preload?

No I tightened up on axel stands , guess I will need to do that then

Not sure to be honest mate never looked that closed once jacked up move the wheel left and right only a small amount and feel for play if it moves without moving anything else then this would point to a loose bolt. A few people have a problem with the tca bolt check this make sure it's tight if in doubt of the condition replace not a bolt you want snapping while driving for the sake of a few quid

I replaced all bolts , had everything powder coated , see my build thread lol . Looking at it, one wheel looks a tad more forward than the other :-/

Points to something wrong with anti roll bar, did you tighten the anti roll bar bolts with the car on the ground to avoid preload?

No I tightened up on axel stands , guess I will need to do that then

It might not solve your issue but thats what you're meant to do, loosen them on the axle stands, then nip them up so they're not very tight, lower car down and tighten fully (I'm talking about the nuts that go into the track control arms)

Not sure to be honest mate never looked that closed once jacked up move the wheel left and right only a small amount and feel for play if it moves without moving anything else then this would point to a loose bolt. A few people have a problem with the tca bolt check this make sure it's tight if in doubt of the condition replace not a bolt you want snapping while driving for the sake of a few quid

I replaced all bolts , had everything powder coated , see my build thread lol . Looking at it, one wheel looks a tad more forward than the other :-/

Points to something wrong with anti roll bar, did you tighten the anti roll bar bolts with the car on the ground to avoid preload?

No I tightened up on axel stands , guess I will need to do that then

It might not solve your issue but thats what you're meant to do, loosen them on the axle stands, then nip them up so they're not very tight, lower car down and tighten fully (I'm talking about the nuts that go into the track control arms)

the nut on each end of the arb ? Or the bolt that holds the tca stud on the strut ? Or both lol

Not sure to be honest mate never looked that closed once jacked up move the wheel left and right only a small amount and feel for play if it moves without moving anything else then this would point to a loose bolt. A few people have a problem with the tca bolt check this make sure it's tight if in doubt of the condition replace not a bolt you want snapping while driving for the sake of a few quid

I replaced all bolts , had everything powder coated , see my build thread lol . Looking at it, one wheel looks a tad more forward than the other :-/

Points to something wrong with anti roll bar, did you tighten the anti roll bar bolts with the car on the ground to avoid preload?

No I tightened up on axel stands , guess I will need to do that then

It might not solve your issue but thats what you're meant to do, loosen them on the axle stands, then nip them up so they're not very tight, lower car down and tighten fully (I'm talking about the nuts that go into the track control arms)

the nut on each end of the arb ? Or the bolt that holds the tca stud on the strut ? Or both lol

The anti roll bar goes through the tca bush and there's a nut on the end of the arb, thats the one :-)

So I undid all the nuts to do with the suspension, sat the car on its wheels, tightened it all back up to the correct torques. driving it around, seems alot better, but when I go over bumps, pot holes, speed bumps I can still hear a clicking noise on the drivers side. looked in the arch more closely and the stud that is in the track control arm is hitting the top of the inner arch, so it will need grinding down as there is alot of excess, bloody weird !! any one else had this ??

Did that sort you problem with wheel being to far forward? I've got 6N. My suspension is completely new all round but my passenger side wheel is about 8-10mm further back towards the sill. Any ideas. I'm thinking is it possible that my subframe isn't mounted straight? I've done same thug tightening arb bolts and nuts wild jacked up.

Cheers.

Did that sort you problem with wheel being to far forward? I've got 6N. My suspension is completely new all round but my passenger side wheel is about 8-10mm further back towards the sill. Any ideas. I'm thinking is it possible that my subframe isn't mounted straight? I've done same thug tightening arb bolts and nuts wild jacked up.

Cheers.

6n is a completely different car...

Yeah I know but principal shoud be same, isn't it?

a mk2f doesent even have a subframe lol

Thanks for letting me know.

I think the arb blocks change the allignment as it is pulled down , so I may need arb spacers on one side , the big convex washers on eitherside of the tca bush

there should be a weight in the drivers side drive shaft. i had the problem where it was hitting against the bottom of the engine. hope this helps mate

I had a similar problem, did you put a 2p in the strut and tighten the damper retaining cap fully? You can tighten them with the car on stands with a pair of mole grips, the damper rattles inside the strut if not.

Which one is the dampener retaining cap ?

It holds the damper into the strut, I assume you also replaced the shocks yeah?

Its a large round cap, need stilsons or pipe pliers to get it off?

I thought mine were tight but they weren't, rattled like fuck until I tightened them until the mole grips started slipping on them

Edited 23 April, 201313 yr by derskine

O I get you , may need tightening yer , I had them powder coated too

Did that sort you problem with wheel being to far forward? I've got 6N. My suspension is completely new all round but my passenger side wheel is about 8-10mm further back towards the sill. Any ideas. I'm thinking is it possible that my subframe isn't mounted straight? I've done same thug tightening arb bolts and nuts wild jacked up.

Cheers.

Subframe alignment or the wrong ball joint fitted most likely.

If you get a proper alignment they should be able to check the caster and subframe alignment with the kit. Not with a tape measure.

Had to move the frame on my 6n as was on the piss

are the big rusty convex washers on either side of the tca a spacer ? and when using arb blocks, then not to be used as they were for when the arb was higher up with out the arb blocks ?