Why would you want anymore? Might really spice things up a bit with bits of exhaust I find in a scrap yard

Tis a shame why Bilco never got to the bottom of his before he split it down, in theory should have been good but who knows.

I think iv decided on a spec to begin with at least anyway.

Yeah well fingers crossed its not the head right haha

Edited 15 April, 201313 yr by forbes-1234

Tis a shame why Bilco never got to the bottom of his before he split it down, in theory should have been good but who knows.

I think iv decided on a spec to begin with at least anyway.

yah its wierd. made less power than a standard afh on carbs lol! dont make sence at all!!

what were they? stage 2 or stage 3 whatever that means haha. think its just for traffic light bragging rights mainly lol

think solid lifters would help?

^ when u finally pick this block up lmao

I didn't know they did group discount that is worth knowing, if a few of us wanted to purchase at the same time.

The kits caught my eyes too, they do lifters, spring, oversized valves.

Suppose it depends on how much you want to spend, how much more power it will give you, what you will be using the car for (daily, strip or track) ect ect each to there own i suppose.

Same thoughts as me, like the rally kits, cams, valves, springs, solid lifters etc, but mines a road car, so having peak numbers will be great for willy waving but got the feeling I'll be annoyed with bbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbb.....5000rpm...BWWWWAAAAAAP

^ when u finally pick this block up lmao

Mate, I sent you a text last thursday saying i was coming down and asked for postcode, but no reply!

Then I saw your posts on here about getting your block back still scored and though you might be using it.

Also starting on motorcycle orientated carburettors to annoy Andy and Yoofy.

Make sure you put it on Mk2 ignition too! Preferably the old stuff with nasty points.

I'm sick of the MK2 ignition.

Should be banned, honestly.

I'm sick of mk2 ignition now too!

1.0/1.3 ignition curve for a 1.6 16v, yeah sounds about right that whack it on haha

I've looked into the solid lifter route its quite pricey but not that bad compared to new hydro lifters the problem with them is as Bilco found out

they need setting up / shimming and running in and every so often need resetting/tweaking or something so he said he couldn't be bothered with the hassle

I wouldn't say they are ideal for a road car or a daily but say something like mine which will be a weekend toy they may be worth it so I may still invest and will look into them properly later on as its not a necessity atm for me.

I did post a topic for them on here but barely got a reply except off of Bilco who told me the info he got from phoning the company

I wanted to know how they would be with a turbo rather than N/A

You do realise like thousands of production car engines run solid lifters right...?

I'm sick of mk2 ignition now too!

1.0/1.3 ignition curve for a 1.6 16v, yeah sounds about right that whack it on haha

It's fine, as are 2mm drilled jets n manifold tracts made from flexible silicone hose

talking of higher revs and hydro lifters,

noticed that after every run on the dizzy rascals at gti fest my car was seriously tappy! i know its a 1.3 but its fairly similar no?? obviously its from sustained high revs but any was of helping this?? had to hold the revs up till it cleared up haha.

obvs same would probably apply for an AFH sooo.....

You do realise like thousands of production car engines run solid lifters right...?

The wife's Mazda3 does. 60k intervals between checks, though they're solid bucket tappets with no shims - if they're out of spec you have to order a different sized tappet, instead of shimming your original.

Much like a 1.6 zetec den blud!

You do realise like thousands of production car engines run solid lifters right...?

Most nissan's do, most of my mates all have drift cars and i have rebuilt engines with them over the winter ready for the summer drift season.

It's not hard at all to shim them just need a DTI with a decent frame.

I was just going on what Bilco told me as he rang the company and from what he said to me they made it sound like they need a lot of work

I will look into it more thoroughly I just wanted to know if they would be good for forced induction if not I wont waste my time researching it and will put it into researching something else

I also know a lot of cars run them from factory but as said they are fitted from factory

they aren't aftermarket for an engine that's designed for hydro are they

Edited 15 April, 201313 yr by StinkyPete

Why need DTI for shimming? Or are you meaning to set the cam at the right point for measuring with feeler gauges?

True Pete, they're not designed for solid lifters.

Why would they not be suited for FI? As long as it opens and closes valves lol.

I'd only run them if I was revving to over 7.5-8k frequently tbh. But that's just me

that was what I wanted to know so basically I shouldn't bother with them as I don't intend on ragging the bollox of it at top end a lot

so they are more biased towards high revving NA engines

Do research? You seem to be able to fully space frame a car from research surely you can find out something simple like that?

I tried to find out specific info regarding solid lifters for the afh I didn't want info to do with other engines so I just asked Bilco what he found out then posted a topic asking for more info and there were no replies so I gave up on it at the time

and no need to be sarcastic Nick as the answers to my question will also benefit the OP

Edited 15 April, 201313 yr by StinkyPete

Well only if you have 2 valves per cylinder and one cam lobe per cylinder, so that you can measure the difference between those two valves and then match the shims accordingly.

Ah got you! Can't wait for yours to be done mate, might have to see about these cams at the cheaper rate

haha yeah, i'm just being really lazy tbh i'm not going to make excuses, it runs now at least and have no more wiring issues, need to sort out brake lines and stuff then it can be my daily again, yeaaa!

Next afh will be put in a mk1 golf though i think.

Yeah and defo on those cams if we can get some people together.

I wonder if they all have to be the same spec or not, what spec would you go for?

Edited 15 April, 201313 yr by forbes-1234

Dunno, scared! Haha. 264 maybe ish, not too wild, even a standard cammed AFH is far too boring bottom end lol

I'd like to thank you all for your input, it seems it's quite a touchy subject with lots of different ideas, but I'm glad to see everyone's friendly once more, and Iv'e thoroughly enjoyed reading your replies :-D

The only reason I really started this topic was to clarify as to whether it's beneficial to polish and port the AFH head.

I don't have thousands to spend, in fact I was shocked to find the megasquirt kit is gonna knock me back £400, Dan (Higgo, for those who don't know is my son) has acquired a new set of TTB's and is making the manifold at uni, so I'm saving a bob or two there

So, the 1.4 AFH will be run on ITB's with a megasquirt kit, when this is mapped will it achieve around 130bhp?

Right! if thats the case I may have a couple of hundred £ to spend to add a little more BHP, so hows the best way to go about it?

you lot really do know your stuff, too technical for an old man like me

Once again thanks.