Hi.

The title is what I've been googling with no success.. Obviously I'm planning on changing my clutch this week. Symptoms are: stiff clutch pedal, stiff gear change, slight noise when the car is in neutral and the clutch is out (but goes away when the pedal is pressed). I've been told this is likely to be a release bearing (some call it a throw out bearing or thrust bearing), so I'm changing the clutch with a new clutch kit from LUK. 74 quid online!

Now then, this is the first time I've ever attempted this..I'm planning on putting the front end on jack stands and getting under it to remove the transmission - with the hope that i can knock it off and lower it down without having too much trouble. If you have done this before please give me some tips, are there any hidden bolts and how heavy is the transmission unit?

Oh and how hard is it to remove the drive shafts?

Edited 10 June, 201313 yr by mp2988

I was just about to make pretty much this exact same thread myself!

I'm changing the clutch because mine is really stiff, it's already snapped one pedal box and I need to sort it ASAP before the same happens to the new one I just fitted.

I've never changed a clutch before and a detailed step by step guide for a 6n2 would be bloody amazing. I've got the Haynes manual which gives a brief summary(I could scan and upload those pages for you if you don't have one yourself). Luckily I managed to get hold of two trolley jacks which means I can use one to support the engine and the other one for the transmission so I don't have to man handle it up there.

I've been watching a lot of youtube video of people changing clutches on other cars like this one: http://youtu.be/Ppg_70IM_qQ

There's loads more on them if you search "Change car clutch" or whatever. They won't be exactly the same as the Polo but it gives you an idea of what you're going to be dealing with.

Let me know if you find anything elsewhere.

Edited 10 June, 201313 yr by infinitelivez

Polo's are pretty easy to be fair. Two people are nice, you can do it yourself, but man-handling the box back into place isn't easy.

Start underneath, it's less grotty and gets you started.

Crack the wheel nuts and jack the car up, get it supported well on stands - I put the stands on the flat bit just behind the subframe.

Don't remove the wheel yet! Drop the passenger side hub at the wishbone (3 13mm bolts).

Remove the driveshaft bolts - you can use the wheel to turn the shaft as you work round. A 3/8ths baby extension, ratchet and M8 spline bit do this well.

Remove the other driveshaft, just let it drop down. Remove the linkage (13mm nut, etc).

Remove dogbone mount (3 13mm bolts on the chassis). Can leave the other end connected.

Get back round and remove clutch cable - a 13mm and a 10mm. Unplug and tuck away. Remove the battery.

Remove the loom by pulling it up as much as you can. Disconnect the reverse sensor on the front of the box, the speedo connector at the top right of the box. Remove the starter (3 13mm bolts) and associated loom.

Remove 18mm bolts and earth strap. Support box with jack and remove bolt on the gearbox end (under the battery).

Hold clutch release arm, drop the jack and wiggle out.

That's easy. Now enjoy getting it back in..

I swapped my gearbox in my 6n2 tdi the other weekend, its pretty easy, undo what you see really.

Hardest part was removing and installing it as its heavy.

Remember the gearbox mount you need to install the sideways bolts first then the top ones.

I also managed it without removing the driveshafts by jacking the passengers side up a bit to let the driveshaft go over the flange but it might be different on other models.

If your changing the clutch you will need an alignment tool, or if you have an 6n2 gearbox use the input shaft (Y)

Also remember to torque it all up.

Brilliant stuff!!

Adam/Chris, great tips there, may thanks!

Infinite, I've got a manual coming in the post mate, but appreciate the offer!

I've just watched that video posted above, that man is hilarious! He manages to change the clutch by just levering the gearbox unit to the side rather than taking it out completely! I might see what the chances of that are in reality when I come to doing it this week, cos that box looks real heavy! I'm assuming the LUK clutch kit comes with an alignment tool, but Ill have to wait to see what comes in the box - thanks for the tip should it be lacking that tool!

Is it a necessity to drain the gearbox oil before removing the gearbox? I'm not planning on opening the gears up and as far as I'm aware the clutch area is dry of any oil, so assumed it wouldnt leak any oil when i come to taking it off?

I think I may well do a photo guide to getting it done and post it up, as there does appear to be a distinct lack of an idiots guide to doing it on the internet, for this model anyway.

Brilliant stuff!!

Adam/Chris, great tips there, may thanks!

Infinite, I've got a manual coming in the post mate, but appreciate the offer!

I've just watched that video posted above, that man is hilarious! He manages to change the clutch by just levering the gearbox unit to the side rather than taking it out completely! I might see what the chances of that are in reality when I come to doing it this week, cos that box looks real heavy! I'm assuming the LUK clutch kit comes with an alignment tool, but Ill have to wait to see what comes in the box - thanks for the tip should it be lacking that tool!

Is it a necessity to drain the gearbox oil before removing the gearbox? I'm not planning on opening the gears up and as far as I'm aware the clutch area is dry of any oil, so assumed it wouldnt leak any oil when i come to taking it off?

I think I may well do a photo guide to getting it done and post it up, as there does appear to be a distinct lack of an idiots guide to doing it on the internet, for this model anyway.

You don't need to drain the gearbox oil because it stays sealed inside the gearbox,, but it is advisable to change it after you do the clutch because Polo gearboxes need looking after. Thinking about it though, it might make sense to drain the gearbox first as it will make it lighter, not sure exactly how much oil is in there or if it will make a huge difference but every little helps I suppose.

Mate, if you made a photo guide that would be bloody amazing.

When are you doing yours?

When i bought it from VW they said theres 1.9 litres of oil inside, but i used 2 litres, go figure. Imo not worth it in case you spill it and the stuff stinks! Do it when you put it back in.

You don't need to drain the oil - but the Polo's have a bad habit of leaking, so if there is a leak or even signs, it might need topped up. If that's the case, do it when it's back in the car, it's just a hassle.

Saw the video, never thought of just levering it to the side. You could try it. But then getting the release bearing on, trying to turn the flywheel to get to all the clutch bolts seems complicated when the box is just hanging off.

Thanks for the tips on the gearbox oil, 2 litres will make it that bit lighter for sure!

I'm planning on doing it Thursday and into Friday, but having just checked the weather and it being forecast for rain it may delay things as Ill be doing it on my driveway. Just been watching some videos on youtube and it looks like i need to hire an impact gun for that wheel center nut. I watched a video by Eric The Car Guy on removing and changing the drive shaft and he gave a tip on getting that nut off with a wrench and bar, but he had to really stand on it and the thing almost snapped before it came loose!

Currently watching this video - its on a ford focus but should give some good insight!

You don't need to remove the driveshafts?

Drop the bolts at the flange on the box, drop the ball joint on the passenger wishbone - NOT the drivers and pull them out the way.

Adam, I like the sound of that.. I cant picture what youre saying as I'm not too clued up on all the names of parts.. any chance you can explain that bit again.. Assume I am 4 years old for this, I wont be offended!!!

You dont NEED an impact gun, just a big lever bar and a bit of pipe. Spray it the night before. Whyre you removing the driveshafts anyway?

Just thought, i put a screw in a hole on the topside of the gearbox to hold the release arm in place. Annoying when ita dropped off the end lol.

Where abouts are you?

You dont NEED an impact gun, just a big lever bar and a bit of pipe. Spray it the night before. Whyre you removing the driveshafts anyway?

Just thought, i put a screw in a hole on the topside of the gearbox to hold the release arm in place. Annoying when ita dropped off the end lol.

Where abouts are you?

.Also if theres noise in neutral with foot off clutch its most likely to be the input shaft bearing

If theres noise with the clutch IN its the release bearing.

Stiff clutch pedal, have you tried oiling the cable?

Chris,

You are the bearer of bad news.. The noise is when the clutch is OUT in neutral, its not massive but its there!

Yeah, I've had the cable off and lubed it which lasted for a bit, it i think its more of a slight grind - I assumed from the clutch bearing?

I thought that removing the drive shafts out the way was a necessity to get the transmission unit off, but the more you guys talk the more I'm thinking they dont need to be, so do i just leave them in?

I'm in Newcastle by the way

Chris,

You are the bearer of bad news.. The noise is when the clutch is OUT in neutral, its not massive but its there!

Yeah, I've had the cable off and lubed it which lasted for a bit, it i think its more of a slight grind - I assumed from the clutch bearing?

I thought that removing the drive shafts out the way was a necessity to get the transmission unit off, but the more you guys talk the more I'm thinking they dont need to be, so do i just leave them in?

I'm in Newcastle by the way

How did you get the area where the clutch cable goes through the firewall? The plastic cover on the top of the engine blocks it on mine. Did you take that off, reach around from the side or squeeze your hand through?

Just undo the 2 bolts of the plastic cover, pull of the hose to the left side and pop the thing off the 2 rubber holders at the back and itll come away giving you hand space to the connection.

I've just stuck my head into the engine bay regarding this possibility of not removing the drive shafts. I think we all have crossed wires here, its clear that they have to be taken out of the transmission unit, but not totally removed from the car, so yeah i think by losening the ball joints and popping them out will do the job (so they are connected still to the wheel hub but not connected to the transmission block).. does that sound about right?

Just had done this on mine as the clutch was really heavy and stiff. The problem cost £4 to fix as it wasn't the clutch itself or the cable, but a small sleeve that the release bearing slides over. It had worn away completely on one side so the release bearing didn't slide properly in-line with the input shaft. The result of the hefty force needed on the pedal was a stretched and bent cable.

Once replaced and a new cable fitted the pedal can now be pressed with your little finger. It doesn't feel like theres anything at the other end of the cable!!

The sleeve is known to wear, so that could be replaced, too. I never bothered with any of my boxes, but meh.

As I said, you don't need to remove the shafts at all. Where the wishbone connects onto the hub there is 3 13mm bolts. Remove these. Unscrew the 6 M8 spline bolts - you'll need this tool if you don't have it, from each driveshaft at the gearbox end.

Basically that. Once all bolts are unscrewed (leave them in the holes, just until they've threaded out), smack the shaft with a hammer and the flange will drop.

Chris,

You are the bearer of bad news.. The noise is when the clutch is OUT in neutral, its not massive but its there!

Yeah, I've had the cable off and lubed it which lasted for a bit, it i think its more of a slight grind - I assumed from the clutch bearing?

I thought that removing the drive shafts out the way was a necessity to get the transmission unit off, but the more you guys talk the more I'm thinking they dont need to be, so do i just leave them in?

I'm in Newcastle by the way

How did you get the area where the clutch cable goes through the firewall? The plastic cover on the top of the engine blocks it on mine. Did you take that off, reach around from the side or squeeze your hand through?

The noise in neutral is still there in this other box iv got but not as loud. It will only be the release bearing if yourr pressing the clutch down and you hear it.

As iv said i never removed any driveshaft nor loosened anything. But your model may be different to my tdi. See how you go, remove if needed, if you remove the 3 bolts holding the woshbone on the hub you need to mark it as youll need your tracking and camber redone.

And yes youll need a 12 point spline set.

Mine is a hydraulic clutch so cant help you there. Just take it off the gearbox.

Also try the clutch by hand still could be your cable.

Great tips, appreciated!

I've got a spline kit in the post so shouldnt be an issue with that. My LUK clutch kit arrived yesterday and it doesnt have an alignment tool.. gutted! Any advice for aligning the clutch without one?

Dave, that bit of plastic you refer to, is that the inside sleeve of the release bearing? I notice thats made of plastic. If not, do you know the part number or name so I can get one (might as well do it while I'm in there).

The problem isnt the clutch cable, the leaver it connects to will not budge by hand, I've checked that, but thanks for that - could have saved me a job!

Great tips, appreciated!

I've got a spline kit in the post so shouldnt be an issue with that. My LUK clutch kit arrived yesterday and it doesnt have an alignment tool.. gutted! Any advice for aligning the clutch without one?

Dave, that bit of plastic you refer to, is that the inside sleeve of the release bearing? I notice thats made of plastic. If not, do you know the part number or name so I can get one (might as well do it while I'm in there).

The problem isnt the clutch cable, the leaver it connects to will not budge by hand, I've checked that, but thanks for that - could have saved me a job!

Either buy a universal set or iv heard you can use a broom handle ground dowb. Ring up a scrappy and ask if they have a knackered box the same as yours. Just nab the input shaft.

Pftttt, if you've taken the box off, put the clutch together but loose, eye up the hole in the clutch and centre it with the hole in the back of the box.

Get it straight. As straight as you can. Then tighten it down. I had the box off atleast 8 times and never had an alignment tool.

For gays, I say.

This is the part number for the sleeve that can cause the release bearing to stick 085141181 guide sleeve A couple of quid from VW

I use a socket extension in the clutch hole to hold it centre then tighten them up. As above once you slide the box on it only go in and then centre in this crank.

I would say it's deffinarly worth changing the guide sleeve as they all wear out, that what there made for. lso, a bit of grease on this when fitted won't hurt.

Also, well worth changing the oil and the selector shaft oil seal while the box is off. Makes a world of difference, and is so easy when the box is off.

Great tips, appreciated!

I've got a spline kit in the post so shouldnt be an issue with that. My LUK clutch kit arrived yesterday and it doesnt have an alignment tool.. gutted! Any advice for aligning the clutch without one?

Dave, that bit of plastic you refer to, is that the inside sleeve of the release bearing? I notice thats made of plastic. If not, do you know the part number or name so I can get one (might as well do it while I'm in there).

The problem isnt the clutch cable, the leaver it connects to will not budge by hand, I've checked that, but thanks for that - could have saved me a job!

Here is a good video that explains how to align it without the alignment tool: http://youtu.be/QpE-RbZKw1c