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vw polo 1.0 e 6n2 cooling fan problem

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Hi need some help or advice if possible? my cars cooling fan just wont kick in? I've put wires from the battery to the fan and it works I've even put a wire between the two terminals in the radiator cooling fan switch and it works I've replaced the temperature gauge sensor to as it just wont go above 90 no matter how much revving i do.I took the thermostat housing off to see if the bridge had cracked inside and its fine! any ideas on what to do now??? also does the fan temp sensor work independintly to the car temp gauge sensor? it doesnt need it to work the other?

Edited by ojr1979

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Fan switch or voltage to that switch

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If the voltage is incorrect what do you think would be the cause?

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Just found this! The 2nd one is like mine.wired from 1 to 2 it kicks in but not from 2 to 3???

post-146118-1372336381.jpg

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Thanks nige8021 will go and inspect it right now.cheers

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well I've taken the battery out and the tray. its nothing but wires they all look fine no kinks or splits the fuses and tray that bolts to the positive terminal are fine and no blown fuses so i am stumped and starting to lose my cool with it! aaarrrggghhh!!!!!!!!!!!!! Is there meant to be a fan control unit under the tray somewhere?

Edited by ojr1979

well I've taken the battery out and the tray. its nothing but wires they all look fine no kinks or splits the fuses and tray that bolts to the positive terminal are fine and no blown fuses so i am stumped and starting to lose my cool with it! aaarrrggghhh!!!!!!!!!!!!! Is there meant to be a fan control unit under the tray somewhere?

The fan control unit, if it's fitted is under the chassis rail under the battery mounting area

6N2FanControlUnit_zps07d68735.jpg

If the fan works by bridging pins 2 & 1 but not when the temp gauge reaches an indicated 90 means the switch is duff, As the fan isn't running @ high speed (pin 2 to 3) and if you don't have the fan control unit that would indicate either a wiring fault or the fan itself! If you do have the control unit then that's at fault or one of the fusable metal links on the battery fusebox, you need to remove them and physically check them as the they often look OK in situ but have fatigue cracks

Hi need some help or advice if possible? my cars cooling fan just wont kick in? I've put wires from the battery to the fan and it works I've even put a wire between the two terminals in the radiator cooling fan switch and it works I've replaced the temperature gauge sensor to as it just wont go above 90 no matter how much revving i do.I took the thermostat housing off to see if the bridge had cracked inside and its fine! any ideas on what to do now??? also does the fan temp sensor work independintly to the car temp gauge sensor? it doesnt need it to work the other?

I had this problem on my breadvan last week. it turned out to be the thermo fan switch, picked up a new one from gsf for 16 quid.

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I'm guessing i dont have a control unit then? just some thick wires connected to each other using studs and nuts?

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Difficult to tell from that picture, but the area I've highlighted in red might be the top of the unit??

photo_1_copy_zps4f3c9d1d.jpg

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just checked theres nothing there at all mate i think thats the horn you can see the top of?

Edited by ojr1979

Ok so you have the basic setup as in this diagram

6N2CoolingFannonAC_zps484f2418.jpg

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Thanks nige,i guess so?

Thanks nige,i guess so?

Have you got a multimeter? if you have, do a resistance/continuity check of the wires from the temp switch connector to the fan connector, but as I said before if the fan run OK when you bridged pins 1 & 2 but not when the engine was @ temperature the switch must be duff

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i rigged it from 1 to 2 when the engine was cold and when it was hot and it kicked in but nothing when i bridged 2 to 3?

i rigged it from 1 to 2 when the engine was cold and when it was hot and it kicked in but nothing when i bridged 2 to 3?

Regardless of the engine temp, linking 2 & 1 should bring the fan on @ it's low speed, then 2 & 3 it should run @ high speed So as it's not running with 2 & 3 linked it would indicate there is an open circuit in the wire in pin 3 of the switch to the fan pin 1 But the switch is duff if it's not brining the fan on when it gets to temperature as you've already proved the low temperature switching wiring

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i see what you mean now thanks. thing is i changed the fan switch earlier aswell for a new one and it still wont kick in? i dont understand why my car refuses to get any hotter than 90c

Edited by ojr1979

i see what you mean now thanks. thing is i changed the fan switch earlier aswell for a new one and it still wont kick in?

If thats the case, then the water in the radiator is'nt getting to 92~97c or you really unlucky and the new switch is duff!!

The fan should kick in @ low speed with a water temp of 92~97c and drop out @ 91~84c and the high speed kick in @ 99~105c and out @ 98~91c

It's also worth mentioning don't rely on the temp gauge for an accurate reading, as it will read 90c when the actual temp is anywhere between 75~107c the ony accurate way to check the temp is with vagcom/vcds as this will show tha actual temp of the water in the thermostat housing

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Thats handy to know thanks.I might be unlucky thats true ill see about getting another and trying that route,the temp gauge never goes above 90 no matter how much revving i do but then the fan switch should work without the engine temp sensor anyway as its independant right? I still definitley have a wiring problem of sorts that much we know as the fan kicks in on one speed and not the other when its hot wired?

The coolant temp sensor in the thermostat housing has nothing whatsoever to do with the fans control, unlike some other manufacturers, it's only for the gauge and the engine ECU as it's a dual element device

When its reading 90c are both of the radiator hoses as hot as each other? But you do have a wiring issue if the fans not running with 2 & 3 linked

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Yes i can feel equal heat in both hoses after a while and the lower hose feels tight to squeeze until the thermostat opens and it gets a bit softer!

Connect the switch to the connector and put it in some boiling water and see if the fan runs

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I shall see if i can try that out ill let you know how it goes cheers!

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well after having another snoop around i decided i was going to try hot wiring from fan switch connections straight to the fan but i took a pic of the terminals from behind the fan and found that one pin is missing or the fan has been replaced by a previos owner and got the wrong type of fan ? I'm unsure if I've lost fast or slow speed?

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