i have put 3 rotar arms into this car in a week and something is burning them out i changed the distributer and rotar arm and i have put 2 more rotar arms in since could it be something to do with the distributer being at the wrong timing because it is ajustable any suggestions would be appreciated

Welcome to the Forum.

A bit extreme is that!!

What will cause burning of the rotor arm is excessive current in the high tension (HT) system.

The two likely causes of this are:

1) Spark plug gaps incorrectly set.

2) Faulty ignition coil.

The fact that you have changed the distributor should rule out a further possibility, that is a mechanical fault such as the rotor arm contacting the cap segments. (There should be a gap between the arm and the segments, which the spark jumps across.)

Are there any other problems, such as a misfire or rough running?

When you post a question on here, it always helps us to give you an accurate answer, if you tell us as much about your car as possible, especially: Model; Year; Engine size etc.

Regards.

Welcome to the Forum.

A bit extreme is that!!

What will cause burning of the rotor arm is excessive current in the high tension (HT) system.

The two likely causes of this are:

1) Spark plug gaps incorrectly set.

2) Faulty ignition coil.

The fact that you have changed the distributor should rule out a further possibility, that is a mechanical fault such as the rotor arm contacting the cap segments. (There should be a gap between the arm and the segments, which the spark jumps across.)

Are there any other problems, such as a misfire or rough running?

When you post a question on here, it always helps us to give you an accurate answer, if you tell us as much about your car as possible, especially: Model; Year; Engine size etc.

Regards.

hi thanks for the advice it is a 1996 1.0 6n if i hold it at a steady rev it seems to have a slight popping sound(not on idle) but it has a sporty exhaust so i kind of ruled it out as it has no catalytic converter i checked the dizzy cap and there is some black marks on the points but it is brand new and i have put yet another rotar arm into it today and i am trying not to drive it in fear of burning another out but i have to drive it tomorrow so i hope to fix it tonight or tomorrow morning if possible (i am new to the whole forum thing so anything I'm doing wrong dont be afraid to shout :)

I would say faulty coil.

i ran a diagnostic on it today and it said bad crank sensor but there is no crank sensor

What type of tester did you use?

i took it to a garage i have no idea what one it was :/ but after further research i changed the hall sensor now i have noticed that when the car stops if i leave it for around five minutes it starts again could this still be the coil?

I've just replied to this and lost my broadband connection, so I'll have another go!

Hall sensor faults shouldn't burn the rotor, they may also not throw up a fault code.

Typical symptoms are that the engine will cut out and restart after a period of time, they may well then run for several days without a problem.

Now that you are mentioning this having to wait for five minutes before the car will start makes things a little more likely that the ignition coil is the problem, as when they are in use, they warm up, increasing the internal resistance, the 5 minute wait could well allow it to cool, reversing this and allowing it to start.

Suggest that you try a new coil.

Regards.