hi, I have a pierburg 2E cab, and the choke is being held open with a cable tie, will have a pic of this tomorrow

is my cab knackered or can it be reconditions? and are where good company that can do this? (i'm in the east midlands)

or am I best getting a new one? or can I fix myself?

thanks

Edited 12 August, 201313 yr by Rasta Mouse

sometimes theres a guy on ebay that refurbs em ..not cheap

you could have a go at fixing it yourself , theres a few how to's around , but the parts arent cheap if you mis diagnose it

most people go for a weber , they're affordable at around £100 second hand and easy to work on and tune yourself

Why won't the butterfly stay open? Has any alteration been made to the position of the black cap which is on the drivers side of the carburettor? - If it is rotated too far in the direction of the + (plus) arrow, then the butterfly WILL tend to remain closed.

If you fancy having a go at this yourself, make sure that the mechanism is all free to move and is lubricated.

You will need to completely remove the air cleaner - When you put this back, put ONE drop of thread locking liquid on each of the nuts that hold it to the carburettor (also to the studs if these come out instead of the nuts coming off as you remove them.)

The thread locking liquid is to prevent it from swallowing any of the screws/studs, should they happen to come lose.

Without any special equipment:

Slacken off the three screws that hold that black cap in place - Unless you need to get at the bi-metallic spring which closes the butterfly, there is no need to completely remove this black cap.

With the engine warm, CAREFULLY turn the black cap in the direction of the - (minus) arrow until the butterfly starts to open, re-tighten the three screws, but don't put the air cleaner back just yet.

Leave it to stand (preferably overnight) and when the engine is cold, one press on the accelerator pedal SHOULD allow the bi-metallic spring to close the butterfly, if this doesn't happen, slacken off the three screws and move the black cap VERY slightly in the direction of the + arrow until it JUST closes.

You may have to make several SMALL adjustments to get the thing exactly right. - When it is correct, the butterfly will close with one press of the accelerator pedal WHEN THE ENGINE IS COLD and will open before the mixture becomes too rich as the engine warms up.

Regards.

sorry for the late reply,

Thank you both for the good advice, I have been looking at a few options, form fitting a manual to a full weber kit

it all depends on that is said after you lot has seen the pic

it looks to be the Bi-metal choke assembly has bit-the-dust

the cable tie is holding the choke fully open I think, and when you remove the tie there is little to none tension in the spring

it takes about 4minites to start from cold

Edited 11 August, 201313 yr by Rasta Mouse

Any one? :sad:

What you need to do, is to remove the black plastic cap which would be the next item down in the centre picture.

Inside there you will find a coiled bi-metallic spring (it looks a bit like a clock spring) if it is intact, try hooking the end around the little lever which attaches to the choke butterfly spindle.

For adjustment, you will see on the end of the black plastic cap, the '+' and '-' signs that I spoke of earlier.

Again on the centre picture, you can see the 'timing' mark that is a guide to the position of the cap.

Have a go at following the guide that I placed there last week and let us know how you get on.

If you don't have any success and there are no other problems with the carburettor, your cheapest option would be to fit an over-ride kit, converting it to manual choke.

The Pierburg 'milking machine' gets a lot of unfair criticism, but on the whole, it is not a bad carburettor.

Regards.

Shouldn't there be the end of a small spring around the nub where the cable tie is attached?

I can see some of its coils around the choke's axle below the RG of PIERBURG in picture 2.

Has someone taken off the auto-choke and dislodged that spring. But surely that spring pulls the choke closed to impede air passage, because the bimetallic coil inside pushes the flap open as engine warms? Confused

New manual choke conversion kits for 2e3 seem to cost nearly £50 on eBay.

Perhaps a motor factors or specialist like CarburettorHospital or FuelSystems would be less expensive?

Could save on fuel though, I reckon the autochoke is way too eager on most Pierburgs.

Wonder whether a Pierburg 2e3 from a bigger engined car (scrapyard/ebay) could provide a donor auto-choke?

They were used on loads of car models with different fixed venturi/barrel sizes to match engine capacity.

[Or more excitingly - could such a carb be jetted down to match a 1.3 engine?

The carb you have has the right jets, but the venturis might be too big, so it could stumble or bog and be nearly un-driveable. Experimenting to get it right would be a total pain as I believe the carb would have to come off the manifold each time main jet or air bleed needed change. Idle can usually be done in situ. And you might get it just right only for the pulldown unit diaphragm to split]

Vauxhall Nova/Opel Corsa 1.3 used 2e3.

Golf Mk2 1.6 had a Pierburg 2e2 with 22/26 venturis - which is not too far off possible.

Good ones of those tend to be expensive too.

Ford Sierra 1.8CVH had a Pierburg 2e3 but was 26/27 venturis so impractical really.

Ford Sierra 1.8SOHC had a Ford 2V with 23/26 - I think this was a Pierburg design under license -might not have same autochoke -possibly different base mount.

Edited 13 August, 201313 yr by dvderlm

What you need to do, is to remove the black plastic cap which would be the next item down in the centre picture.

Inside there you will find a coiled bi-metallic spring (it looks a bit like a clock spring) if it is intact, try hooking the end around the little lever which attaches to the choke butterfly spindle.

For adjustment, you will see on the end of the black plastic cap, the '+' and '-' signs that I spoke of earlier.

Again on the centre picture, you can see the 'timing' mark that is a guide to the position of the cap.

Have a go at following the guide that I placed there last week and let us know how you get on.

If you don't have any success and there are no other problems with the carburettor, your cheapest option would be to fit an over-ride kit, converting it to manual choke.

The Pierburg 'milking machine' gets a lot of unfair criticism, but on the whole, it is not a bad carburettor.

Regards.

Thanks, I'll get on to it asap, if I don't get any joy with it and if you have any free time? could I be very cheeky would you pop and have a look at it? as I'm in Nottingham to

Shouldn't there be the end of a small spring around the nub where the cable tie is attached?

I really don't know, this is the first time I have work on a cab like this

Update:

I've removed the cable tie, adjusted the chock as described and she running better and starts easier :-D :-D just got to book her for timing and air & fuel setting

Big thanks for all your help

if your gona be keeping a old car...buy yourself a timing light , you dont want to be paying out for a garage to do it

if your gona be keeping a old car...buy yourself a timing light , you dont want to be paying out for a garage to do it

It is something I'll have to get one, have to have a chat with my mac man, for now £20 to do the time and base settings I think he said.

I have had problems with mine and it only worked out being a tad more expensive to just get a weber.

You will learn a lot about carbs by sticking with it but it will cost you more than a replacement. I just wanted to say that the guy above talks about a black cap but on yours its actually an aluminium one so it's silver like mine. I will have a spare auto choke too as soon as i can be bothered to remove it from my car if you do need one in the end.

I have had problems with mine and it only worked out being a tad more expensive to just get a weber.

You will learn a lot about carbs by sticking with it but it will cost you more than a replacement. I just wanted to say that the guy above talks about a black cap but on yours its actually an aluminium one so it's silver like mine. I will have a spare auto choke too as soon as i can be bothered to remove it from my car if you do need one in the end.

Yes I will need one as the springs have gone and I'm going to rebuild as it not got any mixture.

Why can I find a service kit for my Pierburg 2e?

I have found service kits for the 2E2 & 2E3 or will one of these do??

any advice or website one can be found?

Goto www.dellorto.co.uk

Their cheaper service kit for 2e2 and 2e3 is fine.

2e2 is more complex than 2e3 due to items outside the carb body (such as thermotime switch, vacuum pot throttle return damper)