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Hi guys,

I've recently bought my second polo, moved from a 6n to a 6n2 :D

but the problem is my new polo needs some work, :-(

basically when you push the throttle down, nothing happens, car wont rev up,

the pedal will return back when you let go, I'm getting the car recovered on monday, but was hoping someone could give me some pointers before i get it home.

I've heard of the common 'Pedal box' fault but i dont follow properly :? does it only include clutch & brake pedals? or throttle included?

I've had thoughts of a throttle position sensor?

any ideas welcome, but would prefer if you had some tests for me as I'm on a budget and need to sort it as cheap as poss :sorry:

Thanks in advance guys!

Kyle.

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  • caretakerplus
    caretakerplus

    Welcome to the Forum The 'pedal box' refers to the mounting bracket for the brake and clutch pedals. You are probably familiar with the 6 N throttle arrangement, where you had the pedal inside the c

Welcome to the Forum

The 'pedal box' refers to the mounting bracket for the brake and clutch pedals.

You are probably familiar with the 6 N throttle arrangement, where you had the pedal inside the car connected to the throttle body(TB) by a Bowden cable (mechanical).

You will find that the 6 N 2 doesn't have this Bowden cable, but instead there is an electrical connection between pedal and TB, this is often referred to as 'Drive by Wire'

Your problem still could, as you say yourself, be caused by problems with the TB, but could equally be down to problems at the pedal end, or a connection.

I would recommend that you first of all get any fault codes read (if you are doing this yourself, you will need a scanner or better still, VagCom and a connecting cable to connect to your laptop.)

VagCom is a diagnostic (fault reading) package which you install on your laptop.

There are items on VagCom on this site, which I am sure will help you.

Regards.

  • Author

Hi and thanks for the welcome,

I've seen a wire on ebay for about £7 which says 'vagcom' I've just started an apprenticeship at Mercedes, i know that the diagnostic machines we use are thousands of pounds, which makes me wonder if these will work, and if they do how good are they?

Thanks for the help,

Kyle.

I'm gonna put all my money on the lambda sensor wiring being shorted out. It takes out the ECU with it, I'm afraid, so no response from the throttle. It's what killed mine, so I went AFH and carbs.

The cable comes loose and gets cut through by the road, and then shorts. It must share an earth with the ECU that takes the pedal out with it. Not sure if removing the sensor/replacement sensor will cure it, or if it totally takes the ECU out.

I'm 90 percent sure it takes the ECU out though, so you'll need a new one coded in with vag-com. The clocks aren't coded though, so it's just the ECU and immo that need coded. A fortune from the dealer, but Ross-tech has a howto on how to do it with Vag-Com.

If I'm right, it's a new lambda sensor, and a new ECU.

You'll have no response from the pedal at all.

  • Author

Oh dear, I did read up something like that happening, is there anyway I can test it? The sensor was in the car when I bought it, I did have a look at it but the wire hasn't rubbed through on the sensor.

If it rubs through where does it rub through?

I was hoping it was a tps, or something like that.

Any tests I can do before I go ahead and buy a ecu?

I know it sounds cheap, but can I recode a used ECU?

Thanks a lot for your help!

Kyle.

It'll rub through on the sheath somewhere probably. It shorts out the positive onto the chassis (which is obviously ground).

I'm not saying this is your problem, but it's the exact same symptoms as mine. You'll have a massive bunch of codes that WON'T clear either. I can't remember any of them because it was like 3 years ago..

Of course you can! :) Has to be another 1.0 ECU though from the 6n2 range (or whatever engine yours is). They're still going for silly money, that's what annoys me! But yeah, get one that matches, and plug it in.

Obviously sort the problem that killed the first one - IF THAT'S WHAT IT IS! I'm not being accused when you've just bought a new ECU and it doesn't need one! :p

When you start it for the first time - weld your foot on the floor. It'll start, rev to like 3k and then cut out (it's the immo). Atleast then you know the pedal works! That, and there's measuring blocks in vag-com that you can check pedal position with.

  • Author

Ill give it a go, its getting recovered home tonight so ill try update later,

What your saying is slam my foot to the floor and see if it revs to 3k? If so then its the exact same as your symptoms?

Once again, thanks for the help!

  • 3 weeks later...
  • Author

I don't know if you get notifications adam, but you were spot on, couple weeks of f****ng around removing and replacing almost everything, found the o2 sensor wire had been bodged,

Ever feel like you've been 'had' :(

Ahh well, moving on.

If I get a 2nd hand ecu, can I reprogram it to my polo?

I have vag com,(atleast I think its vagcom, £8 lead and a software disk from ebay?) Lol

Hope you can help,

Kyle.

  • 3 months later...

I'm having a problem a bit like this i need help with

I recently took the pedal box out for welding as it cracked when the clutch went.

and when I put it all back in and started the car it jumped straight to full revs

the sensor is reading that its fully on and its not being touched, I know that disconnecting the battery and sensor and throttle body can some times knock it out of alignment but before I find some one with vagcom to try it I'm thinking it much be some thing more wrong as its reading full on

any help would be great :)

  • 1 year later...

Hi guys I'm having the same problem my cat fell off ripping the lambda sensor off now the epc light is on and there no acceleration the pedal don't work plugged scanner in and it came up with loads of faults but could they be showing up wrong as like you said ecu earths out just want my car back on the road😔 Vw polo 1.0 6n2

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