My only consideration for having the fuel tank in the boot at floor level is having it up high, I want to keep the weight as low as possible. If I recess it in the boot then it will get in the way of the centre exit exhaust and the diffuser.

If I have to fill it through the boot then it will get fumy in the cabin, and also mean it will be a pain in the ass if I decide to run a fibreglass boot lid with pins which I may have to to fit the spoiler.

I could run lexan side windows and have the filler running through the window (proper racecar!). However I will also have to box off the fuel tank so in the event of a rollover there's not going to be fuel splashing everywhere.

At this stage, I'm actually considering a slim tank in the stock location, and route the filler up through the floor and out through the window, with lexan glass.

The research continues. I'm not going to start work on the offside arch until I know what I'm doing with the fuel tank/filler situation as obviously it is different.

This week I'm putting in some more overtime at work to fund the rollcage fabrication which is imminent.

I'm also going to test fit the untouched AFH engine to see how much room I have for the exhaust manifold and subframe, and the jenveys.

This will also give me a chance to see how much room I have for my exhaust (twin exits off the manifold) and begin to visualise replacing the mk1 handbrake panel with a mk2 section to upgrade the handbrake mechanism.

So I've now test fitted the engine.

It went in ok!

I now am a little wiser...

The VWM manifold is short enough that I can drop the engine in the top with it on and it doesn't catch on the back which is good news as it won't go on once the engine is in.

I'll need to use a V belt pulley for the alternator as it's just about touching the chassis leg.

I'll need to modify the PPP frame as even with the standard ARB the exhaust fouls meaning the engine is resting on it and I can't get the rear of the engine low enough to get the mount on. Here's a pic.

Should be easy enough to modify the front bar of the subframe although I will be borrowing a heavier duty welder to weld it up as I don't trust my mini mig on a big bar like that. I'll be cutting the front out and bringing it forward. Thankfully there's enough room for the exhaust in the bay which means I don't need to cut the front apron, although I suspect I will be wanting a custom radiator.

Happy to be sharing a photo like this too..

It will be coming out again once I have a subframe that fits properly. It looks a little high in the photo as it's resting on the ARB and the rear mount isn't in.

So I've started work on the subframe.

First, I made a brace to keep it straight and true whilst I perform a little bit of surgery.

Then, I cut out the mid section, retaining the bends, so I could take some dimensions of the tube and order in the right spec.

Ever wondered what a subframe looks like inside? It smells like steam trains in there.

If you're thinking I'm mad, here's the plan.

I will cut before the bends on either side, and replace the centre section, extending the sides before the bends, to bring the front bar forward. I'm then going to use triangular gussets either side to add strength, just in case I've lost any strength, and it won't do any harm.

Edited 15 December, 201312 yr by runforrestrun

sweet..

does the side bars of the subframe clear the sump ok? as I thought this was also a bit of an issue.

some brilliant work going into this! :)

I've got a mk2 sump in the post, so I will let you know once I've test fitted it. I didn't realise the sump was an issue, have you heard that from other folks then Mark?

A 6n sump won't clear a subframe.

Earlier one will.

6n one will if you cut the corner off and make it an internal 90 instead of external if you get me

I get you yeah. That's fine as I planned on using the mk2 sump anyway (I will have an AVY and an AFH sump spare if anyone wants them)

Happy days.

Just ordered some tube from eBay which I will get bent (ha) once it arrives. I will make the gussets from 2mm steel, just like I've seen done on door x-pieces on roll cages.

Not sure if I will use it, but this arrived today all the way from Germany.

It's a Kamei scoop which fits over the bonnet vents.

Looks cool.. :)

Here's the only mk1 I've found with a Kamei scoop fitted, and I like it!

Today I made these, made the old fashioned way with a piece of sheet, and a hammer and vice. Bent around the tube that I cut out of the subframe.

Cut to shape and size, mocked up on the subframe.

I've welded the centre section back in, so I can do the proper cuts and retain the old bend as a guide for making the new one.

Edited 20 December, 201312 yr by runforrestrun

Looks good!

I got hold of a tube bender for the afternoon, so my length of tube turned into this

which when I cut it up and cut the subframe properly turned into this

Now I just need to make some slugs to go inside the tube, and chamfer the ends so I get a nice strong joint when I weld it.

I've killed my grinder now though, so that's stopped play for the evening.

That looks really good! :)

Fancy modifying another?!?!

I'll need to use a V belt pulley for the alternator as it's just about touching the chassis leg.

You dont need to as the engine will fit and run fine with the 6 rib belt, depends upon your preference though.

Job done, next job is to fit it to the car, mock up the exhaust for the fuel tank, remove the engine again, strengthen the engine bay

Edited 1 January, 201412 yr by runforrestrun

Welds cleaned up

Managed to almost get it to fit but the chassis legs will need some pulling with some ratchet straps to get the holes to line up

It's a good thing I've got that massive splitter to hide the subframe, ignore the bent front apron, that will be getting fixed

I've now taken delivery of a few more parts (verniers and windage tray) from ebay.de

The subframe is in, soon the engine will be out again, but first my attention is now turning to the tunnel.

I'm going to run a centre exit exhaust, and my experience of a mk2 means that the exhaust runs close to the bottom of the gear selector box.

I'm going to replace the mk1 selector mechanism with that of a mk2 (where the box bolts in under the car) so I can make my own short shifter with it. I'm thinking of raising it into the car so that it leaves more room. I suppose that as long as the rod doesn't foul the floor, it will still work as normal? Ideally I'd like a cable shift but I don't want to be cutting the bulkhead to make room for the shifter mechanism a la this so a rod shift will have to do.

I found the standard shifter box was fine with exhaust, I can get you some images to show how my exhaust sat if you like?

That would be awesome if you could Dan

Do you know of anyone that's made a short shift for a mk1 using the mk1 selector?

I had my exhaust made so it tucks up nicely in the tunnel and it clears the gear shifter nicely.

Have you seen the short shifters on German eBay. They look quite easy to make.

Jim

Speak with Kiz regarding short shift, he had a good chat with me regarding short shift options keeping the original rod, well mk3 selector shaft with the mk1 cup welded on the end...take it your aware you need to do that?

I finally managed to get all of the subframe bolts in! What a nightmare. Hopefully once the bay gussets are in and the stitch welding is done it will all stay straight enough to make the subframe easy to get in and out..

It's now sitting on it's the coilovers on the front so I can figure out if my new wheels fit or whether I need to use spacers.. or if I need a different offset..

Wheel photos to follow. PS the keen eyes amongst you will notice I've now got a proper mk1 grille.

Little update.

I've sourced some 256mm Audi front brakes, and ordered my PPP top mounts.

Oh, and I've decided against a hydro handbrake, and decided against a CAE shifter, as I've read that it's really easy to damage the syncros when changing with one, apparently.

No progress on the car for the past month but I'm keeping my eye out for parts.

I've managed to get a place at Portsmouth University this coming September so I'll be keeping the car ticking over, but time is a valuable resource that I won't have a lot of over the next few months as I study in preparation for Uni, so I won't be able to work on the car much.

Edited 8 March, 201412 yr by runforrestrun

Another piece of the puzzle delivered today.

Girling 54 Calipers with early Audi Carriers to fit 256mm discs up front with OEM parts. Happy!

Edited 13 March, 201412 yr by runforrestrun