Please can I have a fondle of it when you fit it? :)

Why is it in the bedroom?

Why is it in the bedroom?

why do you think?

Why is it in the bedroom?

why do you think?

So it doesn't get scratched and I can look at it's beauty

My chrome bumpers are also in my room, along with my headlamps, spare pistons, timing belt cover etc.

Things that are too nice to get damaged by angle grinder sparks in the workshop.

me needs one of those timing covers tooo

Why is it in the bedroom?

It does kinda look like a sex toy!!! :-D

i have an early flocked dash if your interested all vents etc have been removed pm me if your interested

Some dosh gone into this!

Going to be epic!

hurry up and get cracking jimbob! lol

Loving this mate!!

When you fit the shifter Jim get some decent pics up :) I want to see how it fits/works! I bet your spare room/garage is getting full with parts haha

Edited 4 July, 201412 yr by etches69

I have been busy but I will update with photos when I have enough to make it worth looking at.

Tom, they are all in my wardrobe, although I do have the bonnet and my chrome bumpers in my bedroom!

So this week I've been able to start work on the car properly as my exams are all done now.

I started by removing the old seat mounting bars that were welded in by the previous owner.

I also removed the original front mounting points for the seats. I will weld in my own seat mounting bars at a later date once I've decided on what seats I will fit, if they will be fixed or sliding, and where the driving position will be in relation to the pedals, steering wheel etc. This is a small car, and I'm 6'2''.

The inner sills need tidying up as the old welds aren't great (I can see a theme here). I will gusset the new seat mounting bars to the floor to get back the strength lost.

While the engine is still in (from when I test fitted the subframe and exhaust manifold) I decided to get the shifter mock fitted as I can't do it without a gearbox to link it up to.

I decided to cut out all of the old selector cage that sits in the tunnel on a mk1 (the mk2 unit bolts in from underneath) as it's not needed, and it will give more flexibility with tucking the exhaust in the tunnel (especially considering that my exhaust is a 4-2 so will need space for a Y piece). I will also fabricate new tunnel gussets once I know where the exhaust will sit, again, to get back the strength lost from cutting out the old one.

Alot of grinding there Jim, what a ball ache! Well worth the effort though lad. Keep it up

Just a heads up the drivers seat has to be movable so sliding for the MOT mate

but passenger seat can be fixed

great progress man glaf to see you getting back on it and put more progress pics on instagram yeah

also you could use the tunnel braces for additional exhaust mounts too if needed just an idea

Just a heads up the drivers seat has to be movable so sliding for the MOT mate

but passenger seat can be fixed

great progress man glaf to see you getting back on it and put more progress pics on instagram yeah

also you could use the tunnel braces for additional exhaust mounts too if needed just an idea

Thats not quite true, if you just bolt seats into a normal road car, then yes it will fail but I quote:

A VOSA spokesman has told us that, when the new updates do come in, the inspection manual will include a more thorough definition of modified vehicles in that it will state:

"Where a car has been extensively modified or converted, certain Reasons for Rejection such as 'components missing where fitted as standard' should not be applied, for example:

A car converted for rally use (i.e. rear seats removed and fitted with a roll cage and full harness seatbelts etc) may have been converted so as not to require a brake servo, power steering or airbags.

VOSA says it is expected that modifications to cars converted for track or rally use will be permanent and readily identifiable, and wouldn't include those where an airbag has been disconnected for "occasional" off-road use, for instance.

So basically if you have a car with roll cage, harnesses etc and is basically a road legal track car then fixed seats arnt a problem. You cant just bolt it too the floor thought as that is just thin sheet. It would either need reinforcement plates in the floor, or a bars going across like Jims car had again with reinforcement at the ends to spread the load.

http://www.poloperformanceparts.co.uk/shop.php?cat=2

Edited 15 July, 201412 yr by KustomPolo

I was just stating current rules

There's also no guarantee these new rules will come into play or when. And they may not cover everything you would want so just best to be on the safe side until they are actually announced rather than hoping.

There's always rumours that vosa are going to implement new things and a lot don't happen or they vary from what was said.

Thanks for the input chaps. I have to say I will probably settle for a sliding drivers seat anyway, as I will allow a few special people to drive it as well as me, and they aren't all lanky sods like I am!

Anyway, I've been a busy boy this week and started to get the shifter installed before the engine comes out again.

I cut the tabs off from the old selector surround, and took it back to bare metal ready for a coat of weld through primer.

I then made a blanking plate from 2mm sheet to fill and level the recess.

Now welded in, and rough cut to get it flat.

Hole cut for the selector rod, it's a bit long so I will need to weld in some plate to make it hide under the shroud.

Fitted in the car.

There is insulating tape around the stick so it doesn't get scratched on installation.

So this weekend I've done the following.

Mocked up the selector shroud into a position I am happy with, and the rod now doesn't foul anything. I've drilled two guide holes so I can re position it without needing the rod on.

I've removed the AFH block and gearbox, now I'm confident that the selector is in the right position and I can get all gears.

Master cylinder out, getting ready to remove the bulkhead divider and re engineer the turrets. I'm pleased to finally see the full glory of my modified subframe. (it was fitted with the engine and exhaust in the car to measure exhaust manifold clearance)

Removed the pedal box. I'm still stupid surprised when I look in places like this how clean the car is.

Part way though removing the drivers side wing - there was unholy amount of underseal down there which ended up needing a blowtorch to loosen things up.

And the first wing off. Again, very solid under there, although a bit crispy at the front, on the side of the front valance.

amazing build mate! wish i had the paience to do something like this.

So a small update.

I've now hit inside the front wings with a pressure washer.

Found a few patches of rust, and some holes. Clearly the water gets caught in this area. But not too bad for 33 years old, and the areas are easily accessible to repair with new metal.

And the sides of the front apron.

I also took out the bulkhead divider as well, to make room for the throttle bodies at the back of the engine.

Surprisingly, I was able to get it out with just a plumbers wrench (pliers) once I'd cut most of it out with a disc cutter.

On the sides by the turrets, I was able to tear/peel the metal off the spot welds using an old chisel and a hammer.

I also used a wire wheel to remove the big chunks of underseal in the corner pocket.

that would look epic!!

I've hurt my back this week so no updates to speak of.

However tonight I snuck out and made some L brackets that I can weld to, which is the starting point of my rotisserie. To begin with it will be a frame that sits under the subframe, so I can wheel the car around without the front suspension fitted.

This will enable me to weld in the new front turrets without stressing the chassis and potentially twisting it.

_{So I've now made the frame for the front of the car to keep it mobile whilst I weld in the turrets}

I mounted it though the front bumper holes, and made some support bars bolted to a bracket that wraps around the front subframe bar.

All seam sealer removed, and lots of work with a chisel and drill.

Cleaned underneath with a chisel

Both sides removed

Cleaned and cut ready to receive the PPP turret top

Mocked up, just a bit more nibbling needed with the grinder before welding in the back plate, and fitting them to the car.

Edited 31 August, 201411 yr by runforrestrun